Question re Aristo manual point switches......

The Tenmille points certainly look better to my eye, an option I shall certanly bear in mind should I need to replace my Aristo ones.
 
Now that's what I call the best of both worlds, a very neat solution John.

How have you connected the two? I don't recognise the small vertical section that drops the throw down from the Tenmille switch to the Aristo(?) throwbar?
 
The Tenmille ones look interesting - and they are made only half an hour's drive from where I am, maybe they would bear investigating.
John - you do mention that they have only JUST enough throw for the points you are using - can I ask which makes you have tried them on? Bearing in mind Gizzy's problem with throw distance on an LGB switch fitted to a Trainline45 point, makes me worry that the Tenmille ones might not have enough throw for TL45 points - it seems that not all G scale points are created equal, even those using code 332 rail.....?

Jon.
 
One of the things I like about the LGB 12060 manual lever, is the ability to set it for say a trailing siding, and be able to 'push through' the point blades on the main route. You can't do this with the Tenmille/Peco lever?

The WHR do this on station passing loops so it is quite prototypical.

If you look at the 'Shunting' linky in my signature, you will see how I do this when running round a train at Shringham terminus. It seems to be automatic, but it's all done with a pair of LGB 10520 uncoupling ramps and manual points set accordingly....
 
As an alternative solution to manual point switches I removed them on my points and replaced them with center over springs on the tie bar and now I flick the over with my finger, nice postive throw.
 
Bram said:
As an alternative solution to manual point switches I removed them on my points and replaced them with center over springs on the tie bar and now I flick the over with my finger, nice postive throw.
Click to expand...

Any chance of a piccie of exactly how you did that, Bram? :bigsmile:

Jon.
 
ae86c1d5496b4b7ea41322f551fae650.jpg


Here is a piccie of a point Jon, the spring is a spare supplied with the Aristo points. The holding screws need to be a sloppy fit.
 
Thanks Bram, that looks a very neat and simple job - I might try that if I have one or two points where the switch boxes are in awkward places!

Jon.

Edit: I certainly trust you that it works, but I'm not sure I see HOW it manages to keep the blades firmly in position? I can see how it would work for a trailing push-through point like Gizzy was mentioning, but I feel I'm missing something.....?
 
You will unstand when you come to fix the spring in position:bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile: The screw in the sleeper in front of the tie bar is in the centre, now the techy bit, hold the moveable blades equi distance from the running rails and mark the postion of the fixing hole in line with the screw in the sleeper. The blade is now under tension against the running rails from the bias of the spring. Simples.

I will now go and have a lie down in a darkened room.
 
Thanks Bram - I THINK I get it now, but as you say it will probably become clear if I actually try to do one! ;)

Jon.
 
Gizzy is correct, well as far as the Tenmille lever (and probably the Peco one) in that it's a solid through, no spring action like the LGB ones which is a plus in the LGB one's favour. It didn't concern me to much as I found the Aristocraft one I have been replacing didn't spring like the LGB ones any (would be a nice feature to have at times though).

To mount the Tenmille ones I salvaged various bits of the original Aristo throw, the connecting pin is just a 1/16" pannel pin. It needs to be a tight fit through the hole in the Tenmille lever, if there is slop the there won't be enough throw. All needs to be pretty snug. If Train-Li turnouts have a larger throw than Aristocraft turnouts then the Tenmille lever, as a direct connection would not be suitable. I still have my reservation about the Tenmille to Aristocraft match up in particular with the throw being only just enough, it could become an issue over time as things wear. That said I have a cunning plan to make new or modify the existing Aristocraft tiebar to reduce the throw needed. The picture below may help understand how they are mounted.
430c07152d9948c7a57028df6ec5c379.jpg


An other alternative I hope try is a new sprung ground throw from Llagas Creek, but I have yet to read anything about them apart from the listing in their Garden Railway advert.
 
I have two aristocraft points on my small garden railway. They are now just over 7 years old, and the motors are still going strong. I have had a problem today with one of the motors and I had to strip it down. On opening up the motor unit, there was not sign of any rust internally at all. The problem with the motor was on the tie bar, there is a small peg that fits in a hole in the arm on the gear drive, it had somehow jumped out, stopping the point from operating. I do have the motors protected when I am not running trains, I have small wood boxes that I fit over the motor unit, and these are lined with denso tape. I also spray some WD40 into the unit. The terminals for the supply feed, I just put Vaseline on these.
Martin
 
Correct Paul, the Tenmille lever has no springing at all. That said the spring on the as supplied Aristocraft ground throws are to strong for my stock to run through without derailing, unlike LGB turnouts passing traffic doesn't flick the point blades across.
 
Paul I wonder if you coupled the ground throw to the tie bar with a rod with an omega type spring in it you might be able to push through. Hmm but maybe stick with the LGB type. I've got more to fit though so I'm do some pondering and see if I can come up with a cunning plan because in some future plans I'd like the push through option too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom