Layout rationalisation - looking for thoughts on manual point operation options

[Ralphmp]

After a rather unpleasant fall whilst trying to access points for maintenance purposes, I realised I needed to take steps to simplify access to those items on my layout which require more attention than just running the track cleaner over them. As a result, I have ditched a reversing loop and Wye junction and am in the process of removing all points from the middle and rear of my layout.

This means I now have surplus R3 and R2 points, a couple of reversing loop modules and some single channel point decoders. Fortunately, my stash of track accumulated over the years has come up trumps and I’ve not had to acquire any more lengths to replace the gaps left by removing / moving points. At some, dare I say it, “point” (!) I will be offering the surplus items for sale so if anyone is planning changes / extensions and needs more kit let me know.

As part of the rationalisation I’m looking at whether to dispense with using LGB and Massoth decoders and LGB EPL motors to operate my remaining points in favour of manual operation of some sort. I like the idea of realistic point levers to switch routes but not sure how effective these would be in holding the points firmly in position, something I have found the EPL motors to be good at. Ge_Rik’s blog has a very useful description of how he tackled this matter - just wondered if anyone else has other suggestions that work well for you.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Madman]

Would sprung points be an option. I have a reversing loop at each end of my garden railway. When I switched to battery power for my trains I also removed the EPL point motors and related wiring in favor of small springs. No I don't use manual LGB point drives, but rather light springs I found at Home Depot.

I attach one end of the spring to the point bar and the other end to a nail driven into the earth. A bit of experimentation is required in order to get the spring to the proper tension. It helps if your rolling stock is weighted and has metal wheels.

 

[Ralphmp]

Would sprung points be an option. I have a reversing loop at each end of my garden railway. When I switched to battery power for my trains I also removed the EPL point motors and related wiring in favor of small springs. No I don't use manual LGB point drives, but rather light springs I found at Home Depot.

I attach one end of the spring to the point bar and the other end to a nail driven into the earth. A bit of experimentation is required in order to get the spring to the proper tension. It helps if your rolling stock is weighted and has metal wheels.

Thanks for the suggestion. Hadn't thought about that approach - definitely food for thought.

 

[dunnyrail]

After a rather unpleasant fall whilst trying to access points for maintenance purposes, I realised I needed to take steps to simplify access to those items on my layout which require more attention than just running the track cleaner over them. As a result, I have ditched a reversing loop and Wye junction and am in the process of removing all points from the middle and rear of my layout.

This means I now have surplus R3 and R2 points, a couple of reversing loop modules and some single channel point decoders. Fortunately, my stash of track accumulated over the years has come up trumps and I’ve not had to acquire any more lengths to replace the gaps left by removing / moving points. At some, dare I say it, “point” (!) I will be offering the surplus items for sale so if anyone is planning changes / extensions and needs more kit let me know.

As part of the rationalisation I’m looking at whether to dispense with using LGB and Massoth decoders and LGB EPL motors to operate my remaining points in favour of manual operation of some sort. I like the idea of realistic point levers to switch routes but not sure how effective these would be in holding the points firmly in position, something I have found the EPL motors to be good at. Ge_Rik’s blog has a very useful description of how he tackled this matter - just wondered if anyone else has other suggestions that work well for you.

Thanks in advance.

Have you thought about Air operation, dead easy to set up though somewhat expensive. Perhaps your surplus track sales would fund for you. I think you saw it in operation when you visited me but if you need a refresher you are always welcome.

Link to uk supplier.

sunset-valley-railroad

sunset-valley-railroad

anythingnarrowgauge.co.uk

 

[Gizzy]

I had a mix of sprung and EPL points on my previous layout Phil. Facing points mad motors, trailing points used LGB manual switches.

Worked well for me....

 

[Rhinochugger]

LGB manual point levers are OK, you might need to give the blade a little bit of help occasionally, but they'll keep the blade tight against the stock rail OK.

I only use manual point levers - I'm a bit of a simpleton.

The best non-standard manual lever I've found is a cast brass kit for Gauge 1. The throw is only just enough for G scale, and I adapted mine by extending the throw - performs very nicely now.

I can't remember who made it, and a quick Google hasn't helped - sharrafter do a bit more searching.

 

[Northsider]

I adapted an idea I saw on the 'net for manual control: there was a massive website devoted to their development by 'Gormo'. I've found a post by him, but not the full site; the link in the post doesn't work: Manual Point Control
I have used the lever frame idea and used 1.6mm welding rod for the point rodding; it rusts eventually but is cheap to replace. You get a prototypically slow action on the points, too. Most are within 2 metres of the lever frame, but the furthest is about 5 metres away. It does require some maintenance over that distance, though!

 

[Ralphmp]

Wow. Some great ideas - thanks; the photos are really helpful. (Jon, regrettably, I can’t install air power without a fair bit of upheaval as I liked the idea and I was impressed with your setup.). I’m thinking it’s probably a good idea to try some things out. I have a bunch of LGB manual point switches and I’m sure I bought a more prototypical lever from GRS a while back so some experiments are possible. As an aside, where would I buy welding rod? A builders merchants or is it something a more specialist shop sells?

Thanks again.

 

[Northsider]

Wow. Some great ideas - thanks; the photos are really helpful. (Jon, regrettably, I can’t install air power without a fair bit of upheaval as I liked the idea and I was impressed with your setup.). I’m thinking it’s probably a good idea to try some things out. I have a bunch of LGB manual point switches and I’m sure I bought a more prototypical lever from GRS a while back so some experiments are possible. As an aside, where would I buy welding rod? A builders merchants or is it something a more specialist shop sells?

Thanks again.

Something like this: Sif 1.6MM Sifsteel NO.11 Gas Welding Filler Rod, Copper Coated 1.0KG
I haven't shopped around for prices, so don't know how competitive this is.

 

[Ralphmp]

Something like this: Sif 1.6MM Sifsteel NO.11 Gas Welding Filler Rod, Copper Coated 1.0KG
I haven't shopped around for prices, so don't know how competitive this is.

Cheers

 

[Greg Elmassian]

We often use "choke cables" here in the USA, which have a solid center rod, so they can be pushed and pulled (bicycle cables can only be pulled).

Amazon.com : Oregon 60-039 Choke Cable,Black : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Oregon 60-039 Choke Cable,Black : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

A simple "bell crank" will give you the motion if you want the cable parallel to the track.

Greg

 

[playmofire]

Pre-war Hornby O gauge had a system using control rods and bell cranks - https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/fileS...8) (Dec 1926) (created 2009-11-08 101131).pdf - which might be of interest.

 

[Ralphmp]

Crikey, that’s a blast from the past! Definitely food for thought, though.

 

[PhilP]

Tenmille also do point rodding..

PhilP

 

[Greg Elmassian]

The choke cables can be "snaked" in not a straight line, it's advantage over a straight metal rod.

I do use pneumatics myself.

Greg

 

[Rhinochugger]

Tenmille also do point rodding..

PhilP

Tenmille also do a point lever which has just enough throw for G scale - it's OK until you get a tinsy bit of wear somewhere in the action. Someone in the states used to make a conversion for USAT points that used the Tenmille lever, and I had one. So the lever had gone from Tenmille to the US, had the necessary extending sleepers (ties) added at the correct distances, then come back across the pond to me You couldn't do it on today's postage rates.

 

[Rhinochugger]

After a rather unpleasant fall whilst trying to access points for maintenance purposes, I realised I needed to take steps to simplify access to those items on my layout which require more attention than just running the track cleaner over them. As a result, I have ditched a reversing loop and Wye junction and am in the process of removing all points from the middle and rear of my layout.

This means I now have surplus R3 and R2 points, a couple of reversing loop modules and some single channel point decoders. Fortunately, my stash of track accumulated over the years has come up trumps and I’ve not had to acquire any more lengths to replace the gaps left by removing / moving points. At some, dare I say it, “point” (!) I will be offering the surplus items for sale so if anyone is planning changes / extensions and needs more kit let me know.

As part of the rationalisation I’m looking at whether to dispense with using LGB and Massoth decoders and LGB EPL motors to operate my remaining points in favour of manual operation of some sort. I like the idea of realistic point levers to switch routes but not sure how effective these would be in holding the points firmly in position, something I have found the EPL motors to be good at. Ge_Rik’s blog has a very useful description of how he tackled this matter - just wondered if anyone else has other suggestions that work well for you.

Thanks in advance.

Found it

Williams Gauge 3 Models

williamsmodels.co.uk

I extended the throw on mine so that it has a bit of spare movement at the end of travel in both directions - thus the weight of the lever keeps it in place. Works a treat

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Been a Manual LGB points man myself for over 22 years. Yet to have to replace a manual mechanism, and that includes springs.
My secret, a good clean and grease every decade or so. Keep all the sh_t out of the flanges, and oil the slider plates for mechanical efficiency, and electrical contact.

 

[Paul M]

I know it sounds a bit basic, but how about a stick with a hook, or an eye?

 

[JimmyB]

Tenmille also do a point lever which has just enough throw for G scale - it's OK until you get a tinsy bit of wear somewhere in the action. Someone in the states used to make a conversion for USAT points that used the Tenmille lever, and I had one. So the lever had gone from Tenmille to the US, had the necessary extending sleepers (ties) added at the correct distances, then come back across the pond to me You couldn't do it on today's postage rates.

You can change the throw by altering the length of a crank arms.