Building Dotti

[trammayo]

Mick, on the use of a camera, hold it with two hands, point it at the subject, press the shutter release.....LOL.....Seriously though your photos look great, as does your work on Dotti.

Way back in 1968, while I was still in the navy, I had a Kodak Instamatic. The kind with the revolving flash cube on the top. I was taking slide shots. It was a very simple camera where everything was in focus, regardless of distance. The only thing I couldn't do with it was take close-ups. Surprisingly, the slides I shot were very crisp and clear. I even managed to get clear shots of the Navy's Blue Angels as clear as my next camera which was a Miranda Sesorex SLR !

Hi Dan - How goes things?.

I was going to say snap on seeing you had an Instamatic - but that would have been an unintended pun. My future wife bought me one in 1969! I had it for 20 years until I acidentally dropped it down the stone steps of the cellar!

I was forgiven and eventually bought a 35mm camera (which I still have somewhere).

One hand or two, the results the same! I could never go DCC with my locos - they would be fused to the track (and burnt out!).

 

[Madman]

Hi Dan - How goes things?.

I was going to say snap on seeing you had an Instamatic - but that would have been an unintended pun. My future wife bought me one in 1969! I had it for 20 years until I acidentally dropped it down the stone steps of the cellar!

I was forgiven and eventually bought a 35mm camera (which I still have somewhere).

One hand or two, the results the same! I could never go DCC with my locos - they would be fused to the track (and burnt out!).

Same here Mick. I'm too dense for DCC to penetrate.....

I have given my youngest daughter my Miranda. She has a keen interest in photography. Even with all of her digital equipment she likes the pure honesty of the SLR now and again.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Eeh by gum - ten bob an hour! Yep, I remember those days when it wer real money! A second job was a must (or tons of overtime if it was available).

Yes you're right about it needing some play. The trouble with positioning the motor on this kit is that the hole is not an interfence fit (near, but not near enough). with a depth of only 2.0mm. When I tested it on the track it had a tendency to kick the motor/worm away. I used the point of a pin to stop that for the test and gravity when glueing. Just had a look as I let the darned cats out and I need to reglue. Doh!

Yes, sometimes Ivan's motor mounts need a bit of creative assistance.

If there's only the thickness of the chassis plate to hold the motor, under yer basic O-level physics laws of EFL, FLE & FEL, the motor's going to succeed in kicking the worm away from the gear. The motor may need some support at t'other end to discourage it from doing that. Is there room for a plasitcard box around the motor, or a couple of plasticard cheeks and a collar. The cheeks, fixed to the side of the motor would provide the necessary resistance against leverage, if they are bonded to the baseplate for a length of 20 / 25 mm and then a collar across front and back of the motor.

Possibly a bit of over engineering, but hey, you don't want to have to keep fixing a gear that keeps hopping out of mesh

 

[trammayo]

Yes, sometimes Ivan's motor mounts need a bit of creative assistance.

If there's only the thickness of the chassis plate to hold the motor, under yer basic O-level physics laws of EFL, FLE & FEL, the motor's going to succeed in kicking the worm away from the gear. The motor may need some support at t'other end to discourage it from doing that. Is there room for a plasitcard box around the motor, or a couple of plasticard cheeks and a collar. The cheeks, fixed to the side of the motor would provide the necessary resistance against leverage, if they are bonded to the baseplate for a length of 20 / 25 mm and then a collar across front and back of the motor.

Possibly a bit of over engineering, but hey, you don't want to have to keep fixing a gear that keeps hopping out of mesh

Sadly there is no room (or very, very little) but I'm going to make a couple of simple supports if they don't interfere with the battery box.

The expoxy is now set - just needed the warmth. I guess the equal proportions were a little unequal! Mind you, it was ten years old. (Note to self - must adopt modern consumerism instead of flogging a dead horse!).

Dotti is now looking a little less grotti - rivet detailing done! More anon.

 

[PhilP]

Mick,
I am sure you could put a dead horse on EvilBay, and flog it!!
Having seen some of the tat that sells!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Epoxy doesn't seem to age - unless yours is pre-historic

As you say, temperature is the real thing. I found that if I didn't get the mix perfick, it would stay slightly tack for a few days.....................

I suppose the final option is to cheat (my favourite method) and fix a nudging block in the suoerstructure, so that when the top half is on, there's nowhere for the motor to kick

 

[trammayo]

Mick,
I am sure you could put a dead horse on EvilBay, and flog it!!
Having seen some of the tat that sells!

Nearly fell off my perch laughing at that Phil!

Epoxy doesn't seem to age - unless yours is pre-historic

As you say, temperature is the real thing. I found that if I didn't get the mix perfick, it would stay slightly tack for a few days.....................

I suppose the final option is to cheat (my favourite method) and fix a nudging block in the suoerstructure, so that when the top half is on, there's nowhere for the motor to kick

Yes, I'm sure that was it (I hope)!

Nudge, nudge, , ! - yes that's what I had in mind! Next on my agenda when I've finished catching up on here!

 

[trammayo]

Well having been delayed by more fruitful events, here's some pics of progress.

The brass pins were lovely but I thought the heads were a little large (maybe suit 1/12th), so I have thousands of 15mm long plated pins purloined of the wife. The only problem was that I needed the shank of the pins to be no longer than the thickness of the plastic.

So, mini side cutters, mini taper nosed, magnet, 0.5mm drill bit and pin chuck were the order of the day. I magnetised one of those Arito Hex drives to pick the heads up with and guide them to their new location.

Once in place, I squeezed each one dow with mini pliers and applied super glue. Once that boring job had been completed, I added the head of a nail to one side of the bonnet to act as an engine oil filler. I will make a brass capped fuel filler too (and a radiator cap!).

I also made a couple of grab rails - a bit chunky maybe but the 2mm brass was all I could find yesterday teatime...


This afternoon, not long ago, I cut a bit of waste plastic and cemented it in place against the motor (to stop it from moving forward and possible coming out of mesh with the gear wheel)..





At this stage, it would be OK to cement the superstructure to the footplate but, before I do, I'd like to bolt through to fasten the fuel filler cap.

But it's getter nearer..


And SWMBO's just called - Tea's ready! Omlette - wonder how big a full Oml would be?

 

[trammayo]

Well Friday saw me turn the fuel filler cap. As I parted it off the brass rod it fell through the lathe bed. I picked up, dropped it and have never found it since. So I made another. Having drilled a hole for it and tried a fit, all was OK. I removed the part and put it with the white meatal parts.

I sprayed it with red acryllic primer which ran out before coating the whole loco! So went and got some this morning and tried grey..

All these pics were taken with a very simple digital camera about 16 years old! Simple is, as simple does. That's me!

The little piece of plastic that I glued into the fooplate cum base (so that there would be no hole showing when I centralised the superstructure) was intruding on the interior space and wouldn't allow the battery box to sit in properly. After the pic below was taken, I removed the offending portion...


Now it sits in nicely (the battery holder slides partly under the driver's seat).

Now I need to wire up and fit the switches, and then connect the battery box permanently. Then the loco needs a top coat of paint before the rest of the white metal fittings are added.

 

[trammayo]

I wired up the chassis this morning - tedious for less than nimble fingers to say the least.

The switches have mounting holes, so rather than glue them as per instructions, I fastened them in with some 2mm SS self-tappers. I had to drill the mounting holes ou to 2mm.

I also drilled out the chassis so that the battery box and motor wires could pass through the top of it. Also, contrary to wiring diagram provided, I wired the on/off switch to the battery box leads and then the ouput from that switch to the polarity changeover switch - rather battery to polarity switch then to off/on, and then to motor.

The ribbon cable provided for ripping apart to provide wires proved a problem for me. The core of each seperated wire was so fine meant I was having trouble removing the insulation (nothing so fine in my tool kit!).

First pic shows on/off switch...

then the changeover switch ...


... a view from the top...

...and finally a view of the underside .....

The body is in the process of receiving a top coat but I now think that spraying it wasn't the best way! More tomorrow maybe.

 

[playmofire]

You've done a nice neat job, Mick, despite your less than nimble fingers.

 

[trammayo]

Well, I have been trying to put a final coat of paint on the loco. Despite shaking the can every time, the results aren't brilliant. Apart from the person pointing the can, I've come to the conclusion it was too cold - the paint bloomed. Also difficult to get into any recesses, and paint collected at bottom of vertical surfaces. Also managed to mess up the paintwork by trying to move it.

Here it is warts and all - maybe I should call it Cromwell? Second thoughts, that would be insult to injury over here.

The battery box fits in nicely (under the seat)... Soz about pic quality...





Grotty paintwork .....


Now I need to accessorise it with the castings supplied, plus add my own bits of customisation. Then weather it!!!!! That will hide a multitude of sins!

Need a driver too - 1:24 figures too small (looks like a young school child in charge). Might have to make something (or somebody that is).

 

[playmofire]

When spray painting even in warm or hot weather, I always find it helps to warm the object to be painted up with a hairdryer. Then, the paint drys that bit quicker so less chance of runs and also less chance of "bloom" if the air is cool and a bit damp.

 

[trammayo]

When spray painting even in warm or hot weather, I always find it helps to warm the object to be painted up with a hairdryer. Then, the paint drys that bit quicker so less chance of runs and also less chance of "bloom" if the air is cool and a bit damp.

Yes you have a point there - I have a multi setting heatgun I should have used. I'm not really a spray painter - much prefer brush painting. With automotive paint it has a strong solvent smell - otherwise I would have done it in the back porch with the heating on!

 

[casey jones snr]

It's really looking the part now Mick.

 

[trammayo]

It's really looking the part now Mick.

Thanks Paul.

I've started glueing on the bits and pieces. I'm using a UHU Repair glue but it doesn't set quickly. Will have to gets some mini clamps out of the shed if I am to progress. Watched kettles etc.
Started off with radiator grille ...

Placed framework on body then scribed inside the frame to gain an outline - then used a felt tip pen to colour the background (going slightly over the marked line to prevent any yellow showing), not wanting to wait for the paint to dry.



A piece of aluminium mesh (car repair stuff - non with the kit) completes. Now on with coupling blocks. When all glue had dried I might drill and pin them to the headstocks.

 

[polaroyd]

Another trick with rattle cans when its cold is to warm the can by dunking it in a container of water out of the hot tap for a couple of minutes, it thins the paint and ups the pressure so the spray is finer.

 

[stockers]

also, yellow pigment is one of the worst for coverage. Lots of thin coats, which gets tedious.

 

[trammayo]

also, yellow pigment is one of the worst for coverage. Lots of thin coats, which gets tedious.

Ah tedium - yes I agree Alan - five or six coats didn't do it. I'll get the old distemper brush out to finish it!

 

[trammayo]

Making most of the sunshine today - been in the shed already. I thought I'd touch in the yellow that's been scratched off (as can be seen in the pics below). Shook up the can so I could spray some paint into the can's cap. The result was a yellow coloured liquid with what looked like fine sawdust in the bottom. Even with a tiny brush, the liquid was too thin to cover the blemishes.
I've brought it into the house to warm up as per advice. If that doesn't work, I'll have make it look distressed - just like me.

Usual apolgies for pics...


Axleboxes are pinned and glued, the front coupling block has had the same treatment. Made the brake wheel stanchion from a piece off old TV aerial, clutch pedal from nail, throttle from a veneer pin, and gear change from SWMBO's sewing box .

Now all needs finishing off and a driver found. Nothing suitable in stock as I guess the model is 1/19th or SM32 as it's called.