trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
It'll send you dotty
- - - Dash it all, I'll Endeavour to keep sane - or "I'm as sane as the next man". "I'm Eccles".
Building Dotti
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
- - - Dash it all, I'll Endeavour to keep sane - or "I'm as sane as the next man". "I'm Eccles".
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Try this free download for pic resizing
www.softorbits.com/batch_picture_resize/articles/pic-resize.html
www.softorbits.com/batch_picture_resize/articles/pic-resize.html
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks Alan, I downloaded something similar (or identical even) when I was given a link on the Forum previously.
It isn't a size problem really but rather cropping and correcting - sometimes I can upload as a jpeg and sometimes it has to be a png. The latter increases the file size (but not the pixel sizes). They say ignorance is bliss but I'm not as happy as a pig in the proverbial
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
So a poor (quality) selection of pics again.
The first demonstrates the footplate gap if I centralise the bonnet...
That can easily be fixed by inserting a filler piece in the footplate (as I did with cab front...
My main efforts yesterday concerned dismantling the wheelsets so I could regauge them. As supplied, they were made up AND loctited for 32mm. Absolutely ridiculous as the wheels sit outside the chassis
frame!
Picture shows one of the dismantled sets (had to be knocked out with a hammer and a punch!) and a length of 6.5mm nylon stock..
In the end, I decided to use 8.5mm dia. nylon as, drilling out the wheel centre, would have left the remains of the wheel bosses.
Quite a simple operation, a nominal 8.5mm drill bit (wish Presto or Osborne were easily available here), chuck the wheel by its' tyre, check tailstock alignment, and hey presto! Every pun intended.
Next cut a piece of nylon to a couple of mill over the required length and then press in using the force of a bench vice. The nominal diameter of the nylon exceeded the nominal 8.5mm drill bit - neither the tool or the material actually meeting the 8.5 professed sizes.
Once the nylon had bee forced into the two wheels (I only needed to insulate one wheel per axle as the hammer force needed to assemble the other ends might disturb the seemingly well glued plastic), the wheels were re-chucked, a small diameter centre drill was used to start the hole, followed by a 3mm dill bit. Because of the almost 'fluid' state (when machining) of the nylon, the hole diameter ends up a micron or two below the required diameter. The axle has then to be forced into the nyon giving a very good interference fit! Also whilst the wheel was in the chuck, the peined/suashed over nlyon was cleaned up flush with the back of each wheel.
Because of the wider gauge, nylon spacers are supplied to go between the wheels and the chassis sides. Here's a dummy run..
So, you get the idea. Now I must return to the instructions! I normally only read such things to find out where I have gone wrong!
Oh, and IP's picture of the loco...
to be continued...
The first demonstrates the footplate gap if I centralise the bonnet...
That can easily be fixed by inserting a filler piece in the footplate (as I did with cab front...
My main efforts yesterday concerned dismantling the wheelsets so I could regauge them. As supplied, they were made up AND loctited for 32mm. Absolutely ridiculous as the wheels sit outside the chassis
frame!
Picture shows one of the dismantled sets (had to be knocked out with a hammer and a punch!) and a length of 6.5mm nylon stock..
In the end, I decided to use 8.5mm dia. nylon as, drilling out the wheel centre, would have left the remains of the wheel bosses.
Quite a simple operation, a nominal 8.5mm drill bit (wish Presto or Osborne were easily available here), chuck the wheel by its' tyre, check tailstock alignment, and hey presto! Every pun intended.
Next cut a piece of nylon to a couple of mill over the required length and then press in using the force of a bench vice. The nominal diameter of the nylon exceeded the nominal 8.5mm drill bit - neither the tool or the material actually meeting the 8.5 professed sizes.
Once the nylon had bee forced into the two wheels (I only needed to insulate one wheel per axle as the hammer force needed to assemble the other ends might disturb the seemingly well glued plastic), the wheels were re-chucked, a small diameter centre drill was used to start the hole, followed by a 3mm dill bit. Because of the almost 'fluid' state (when machining) of the nylon, the hole diameter ends up a micron or two below the required diameter. The axle has then to be forced into the nyon giving a very good interference fit! Also whilst the wheel was in the chuck, the peined/suashed over nlyon was cleaned up flush with the back of each wheel.
Because of the wider gauge, nylon spacers are supplied to go between the wheels and the chassis sides. Here's a dummy run..
So, you get the idea. Now I must return to the instructions! I normally only read such things to find out where I have gone wrong!
Oh, and IP's picture of the loco...
to be continued...
Last edited:
playmofire
Registered
The problem is that either you're too close to what you're photographing for the camera to focus properly or (as in the case of the wheel units on the platform) the camera has focussed on the background.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
The problem's moi! My brother gave me the camera a few years ago and, truthfully, I've forgotten how to use it. I've tried all sorts of settings and removing or altering the filter - all to no avail. Somewhere I have the instruction book (it seems akin to one of Tolstoy's works). I will have to peruse the aforesaid instructions!
No, the blur is Mick's speed of construction
My mind is in a blur!
<observation>
Those spacers seem a bit, well, 'chunky'..
Still, I suppose you won't see them on the running engine??
With re-gauging.. Will the wheels still end up inside the frames? - For want of a better term..
Yes Phil they will. The base/footplate/frame (or whatever it is called) is larger for the 45mm version but the chassis is the same for either gauge - hence the need for the large spacers to keep the axles centralised. The dummy axleboxes will also cover a multitude of sins too!
Miamigo259
Registered
Have you got a "macro" setting on the camera?
My Fuji Finepix has, and it improves the quality when you take close up shots of things. Been photographing some of the N buildings I have constructed to post on another site and it certainly improves the quality of the images.
My Fuji Finepix has, and it improves the quality when you take close up shots of things. Been photographing some of the N buildings I have constructed to post on another site and it certainly improves the quality of the images.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
I don't know for sure - I'd need to consult the book!
Anyway, I thought, I have a very tiny digital camera so I'll give that a try.
I did - and my results were even worse (I've deleted three-quarters of the pics taken today!).
So I have fitted the wheels to the chassis, made a little blanking piece so that there is no longer a hole showing on the footplate (that is when the body is glued down), and made a couple of circuits to prove it does work.
The battery box is from my, now defunct, depot lighting.
Plus I have glued all the access doors on the bonnet.
playmofire
Registered
Yes, the Finepix S5000 has a close-up/macro setting, and a warning sound/icon if you're too close to the subject to focus properly.
Mick, on the photo I've attached from letsgodigital.org, there is a little flower icon on the left hand side of the ring round the button marked Menu/OK.
With the camera turned on, press the that side of the button once, a "bar" will appear in the viewing screen showing Off, a silhouette of a flower and a silhouette of a magnifying glass and a flower. Press the right hand side of the ring and then OK and a small flower image in yellow) will appear in the top left corner of the viewing screen. That shows you've get close focus on and can photograph closer. Press the right hand side of the ring twice, and a yellow magnifying glass and flower will appear; press OK and can then go very close.
To get rid of the either setting, press the left hand of the ring and then the right hand side until Off is highlighted and then press OK.
In any focus mode, normal, close-up or macro, if you are too close when you first press the shutter button, there should be a beep and the letters AF flash in red to the right of the focus screen.
All this assumes the camera is set on auto focus.
Attachments
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Many thanks Gordon - you have jogged my memory. I have just tried it with Mae as the subject!...
It worked! I now remember why my brother gave me it because I could not take decent close-ups! I told you my memory was bad.
playmofire
Registered
Glad to be of help, Mick, and that's a great photo.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
So, having been inspired to use the camera again (and to operate a daily train), I took Dotti's superstructure out to temporay mate with it's underframe!
I blame the white for reflecting the light! I did use a filter but you can make out the panels on the bonnet.
Now it's down to detailing, glueing in the screws that retain the chassis (and allow detachment to reach the battery box - need a 3mm nut spinner I think!), mesh for the radiator, switch mounting and all wiring up, rivetting detail (no, that's not an observation), exhaust mods, air intake mods, painting, handbrake, make a gear changer, fit the axleboxes and couplers, find an out of work driver and bash him into shape, etc.
I'll be back!
I blame the white for reflecting the light! I did use a filter but you can make out the panels on the bonnet.
Now it's down to detailing, glueing in the screws that retain the chassis (and allow detachment to reach the battery box - need a 3mm nut spinner I think!), mesh for the radiator, switch mounting and all wiring up, rivetting detail (no, that's not an observation), exhaust mods, air intake mods, painting, handbrake, make a gear changer, fit the axleboxes and couplers, find an out of work driver and bash him into shape, etc.
I'll be back!
casey jones snr
Registered
Starting to look good Mick.
playmofire
Registered
No problem with those photos, Mick. As you've recognised, difficult with the expanse of white, but the panels show up OK.
Must go back through this thread when more time...
Interested in the drive-train (no pun)..
Am thinking of a small diesel scratch-build.. Tentative, and freelance, just to ease myself into things..
The commercial chassis, seem quite expensive, for what they are??
Interested in the drive-train (no pun)..
Am thinking of a small diesel scratch-build.. Tentative, and freelance, just to ease myself into things..
The commercial chassis, seem quite expensive, for what they are??
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
I've glued the motor in today if the glue sets (cold in the shed) I'll take a pic tomorrow. It is just a worm and wheel arrangement.