A Rakes Progress

[Granitechops]

Right,

run out of bogies time to make some more, using the Bachmann wheels, the 31mm ones

get the kit of parts together

 

[Granitechops]

cut some 3/4 inch long bits from some brass channel & drill 3.5mm holes,
[[[[
I did it in 2 stages , 1.5mm drill as a pilot
[[[[[[[[
[
[

 

[Granitechops]

Try again

cut some 3/4 inch long bits from some brass channel & drill 3.5mm holes, (axles are 3mm )
CAREFULLY as there is not much room for error

Actually the best way is to mark & drill several dozen first, using a fence in your drill stand, before cutting

I did it in 2 stages , 1.5mm drill as a pilot

yes you do need lots, 4 to a bogie, 8 to a wagon, just 3 wagons thats 24

I would have liked to use a section that had deeper flanges, but none was available locally

 

[Granitechops]

Clamp to aliminium before drilling to avoid drill wandering

Again not much room for error

 

[Granitechops]

Other side,

showing ply to be used as base for cosmetic bogie sides, & used to pack out brass channel to tight fit

 

[Granitechops]

Line up two sides with room for free wheel rotation & mark out for drilling base holes

 

[Granitechops]

You need to place holes where you can get a twirler to the nuts in case you need to ever replace wheel sets ( or borrow them!!)

 

[Granitechops]

secure with Nylock nuts

if not available use locktight/ glue/ paint on threads

 

[Granitechops]

Of utmost importance for free running

is axles parrallel to each other

at right angles to side frames

& sits square on a glass base for checking

these bogies have no inbuilt compensation ( for undulating track )

But are compensated by the WAY they are mounted

but more of that in a separate thread

 

[korm kormsen]

if you feel bored one day, you might secure your caps with little chains.

 

[Granitechops]

if you feel bored one day, you might secure your caps with little chains.

Funny you should say that Korm

When I used to work on a garage forecourt in the 60s

all the road tankers had brass caps for their pipes, each one had a raised bit in middle of the top with a channel round it & the chain was attatched to a ring that slid round in that channel so the chain did not get all twisted up, & the cap go missing

Now let me see!!

 

[Granitechops]

Dry january day, so out testing the rake

 

[owlpool]

ACE, Don

 

[yb281]

This is a great thread Don. The train looks excellent.

 

[korm kormsen]

all the road tankers had brass caps for their pipes, each one had a raised bit in middle of the top with a channel round it & the chain was attatched to a ring that slid round in that channel so the chain did not get all twisted up, & the cap go missing

that is just, what came to my mind,when i saw the pic with the installed pipes and caps.
if i would do it, i would use taylor's pins for the middle knobs.

 

[3Valve]

Wooah slow down Don, you're building faster than I can read. Excellent stuff again.

 

[Granitechops]

Right, tank painted

decals applied, made up on publisher

I really must weather it soon,

maybe it will be easier to photo then without that reflection!!!

 

[Granitechops]

Hazchem panel

EDIT that "30" in the Hazchem panel needs changing to read "3Y"

when I can get the pc with it on up & running again, as its screen is not functioning

 

[Granitechops]

Data panel

 

[Granitechops]

Ok, so before we do any more wagons, going to need more couplings for the bogies

As I do 1 /12 scale the bodies are quite long & substancially heavier than G versions,

thus transferring greater forces onto each other

thus couplings on BODIES tend to cause more problems that couplings on the BOGIES

NOTE;- I am referring to my scale /gauge combination/ NG twisty, undulating track combination

In effect you have two short bogies interacting / applying forces on each other, occupying say about 6ins of track

where as with two bodies of 15 ins long the overall length of track involved is 32 ins