Photos to go with Hello

hagen said:
robsmorgan said:
Meant to ask.... as you can see I haven't laid any ballast yet...
I live close to the coast and miles of grey gritty (pebbly) beaches - what size mesh would you recommend to sift a reasonable scale 'sand' to use?

Thanks in advance

Rob
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Preferably you could use crushed stone, not round "pebbles" as they have a tendency to 'run away', but crushed stone has jagged edges and 'locks' together a lot better.
With your base though you can get away with either as you are merely using it as a decorative touch.
Use what you think looks best
Click to expand...

Thanks Rune, our local beach has quite a range of materials including sand/grit which could be sifted for the best size.
 
rrd railway said:
Wow that looks fab! I find all this garden railway building facinating and I'm just the wife! LOL Love the rockery and the moss!!
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Truth is Denise, that I had to make a decent job of blending my layout into the garden to get it past my wife.... trouble is the moss seems to be taking over the lawn!!
Rob
 
robsmorgan said:
Meant to ask.... as you can see I haven't laid any ballast yet...
I live close to the coast and miles of grey gritty (pebbly) beaches - what size mesh would you recommend to sift a reasonable scale 'sand' to use?

Thanks in advance

Rob
Click to expand...

Rob
i am sure you are aware but you arnt allowed to borrow pebbles from her majesties coast without permision so be slightly carefull as a shovel, sieve and a wheel barrow, maybe a tad bit obvious
Tony
 
Love it Tony! I have the reverse problem of the soldiers in 'The Great Escape' Every time I go onto that beach my turn-ups fill with this sand stuff and I forget to have a good shake before departing.... I then have no alternative than to clean them out into a sieve when I get home:confused:
 
talking bull eh - right up my street (the avatar I mean)
I've had 5mm grit from a builders merchant in Port Talbot, near the health food shop (AKA mucky dee's)
 
Thanks Paul, glad someone got the joke, took me an hour on PaintshopPro Animation to produce that!:party:
Also thanks for the size guidance!

Rob
 
Finished laying the loop recently and now that Easter has brought a slight improvement in the weather I need to get a lot of landscaping done....
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Mostly been getting on with forming the 1" steel box section into (similar) arches and using the plasterer's cornering (thanks GSC guys for the idea :clap:) to create a suspension bridge over the first part of our pond. Hope you like it. Will update when there's a bit more to see!
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Westcott said:
Hi Rob,
Coming along well - nice bridge!

Did you use plastic or metal angle?
What are the curved bits formed from - looks solid?
What is the edging to the main deck?
Any chance of a close-up?
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Thanks... I am using 2 sorts of plasterer's plastic angle from Screwfix, the curved bits are 1" x 1.5mm mild steel box (3mtr lengths) as I do need to provide some support to the trackbed... the edging is the larger Screwfix plasterer's angle. Will get some close ups & post tomorrow.

Rob
 
Grabbed a few close ups last evening - just as well as it's raining again today....
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The side 'frames' from the 2" plasterers sections (I don't think it is worth trying to cut the right angle off, especially as it provides some stability to the 'fence'....

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The centre (vertical) section is formed from 2 x 1" plasterer's bead with short lengths of hardwood inset at bottom & top for fixing..... I plan to replace the fixing screws with (scale) bolts at final installation... The appearance will improve as I continue adding vertical & 60 degree diagonals radiating from the centre to both sides of the bridge

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The view along towards the 'island' - I plan to hide the horizontal 'frame' under 'planking' alongside the track when I come to finish it off.

Finally I will weather the whole structure (currently sprayed with Halfords matt grey undercoat - rattle can (love that expression!)

Any suggestions are welcome.

Rob
 
Looking good Rob - how did you curve the box section?

Mick
 
trammayo said:
Looking good Rob - how did you curve the box section?

Mick
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Funny you should ask Mick....
I am not an engineer, but I did have some old railway sleepers, bolt sections (sawn to length) and stainless steel 15mm piping.... the bolts sat in holes 4" deep with 2" protruding, the ss tube acted as rollers/defenders against marking the box section.

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I worked out an approximate radius for the span in relation to the 3mtr box lengths and drilled the sleeper accordingly (with progressive holes to accommodate the bolts as I worked the box section round)

Using some extendable & reversible clamps gripping one end whilst pushing the other, I worked the curve. I found it important to move the tube half the distance the 'pins' were apart helped to get a reasonable curve.

It ain't perfect but I noticed that real curved bridges are made from straight sections.

Hope this makes sense.
Rob
 
owlpool said:
looks excellent
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Thanks Paul

I expect you are 'enjoying' similar weather an hour or so down the road..... I was going to get on with the structure for real, but decided to do some digital imagining..... Any thoughts about either of the following?

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This is the one I think is nearest to prototype

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BUT this one would be a bit easier...

Rob
 
You might want to put a 'stretcher' at the top of the arc, as it may become a bit 'floppy' ! Personnally I prefer the 'easier' version!
 
Hi Rob - thanks for your illustrated reply - well done! Box section is always difficult to curve thats why I asked. An effective method you came up with - it looks the business judging by the results! Like your digital imaging too - both designs look great!
Mick
 
jetomlin said:
You might want to put a 'stretcher' at the top of the arc, as it may become a bit 'floppy' ! Personnally I prefer the 'easier' version!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thought - do you mean a stretcher across from one arch to the other? - I was intending to add several of these at the points where the vertical sections meet the arch.
Thanks
Rob
 
Yes, if you look at some of the pictures I've posted before you will see that on my bridges using the metal plasterer's edges,I have a rectangular construction at the top of the 'towers'. Without that, the structures could 'flop' or twist!(and certainly did during construction!)
 
jetomlin said:
Yes, if you look at some of the pictures I've posted before you will see that on my bridges using the metal plasterer's edges,I have a rectangular construction at the top of the 'towers'. Without that, the structures could 'flop' or twist!(and certainly did during construction!)
Click to expand...

Thanks again - perhaps you can provide details of the thread I should look for.... I would say that the steel box arching is pretty rigid and the p/e diagonals will be fixed to their inner surfaces, whilst the vertical p/e boxes do have hardwood formers inside top and bottom.... am wondering how they will cope with the heatwave we're bound to get this year:laugh:

Rob
 
Look in the section on Bridges and also in Track Materials in G scale videos.
However the best way to see it is on my video on Youtube.
Hope the following is the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTrIZy4HAzk

In spite of the material being galvanised steel, the section is so thin that the strength is only in the longtitudinal direction. The mateerial twists and has limitied stregth across the angle; hence the need to form 'box' sections whereever possible,

If you need to see more detail, let me know , and I will endeavour to take a few more pictures to illustrate the point!
Good luck!
 
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