LGB new to this DCC help?

Hi I had a look and thanks…

ebay.us

Model Smoke Generator USB powered ultrasonic railway layout war diorama dolls | eBay UK

Possible uses include (though limited only by your imagination) - from model rail layouts and war gaming to static models, battle or industrial dioramas and dolls houses - possibly even Lego models. Although that said, it would work even if clipped to a wet sponge if not using the included wick.
ebay.us

It looks like we have moved on to water based smoke gen using ultrasonic.
I’m thinking the advantage is no oil purchase…. No heat….. and I could install a big water tank in the caboose so it can run a while?

Now… it’s usb so I’m guessing I would need to make a feed from my DCC track… so chip is 5v and track is 18v
Do I need to get a clever wire dude to figure this?
Or is it easy. ?

Also larger water tank means it can puff for some time but maybe I should add a small decoder to switch it on when we are watching?

Hope you are having a fab Sunday
Chris
 
walkerart said:
Hi I had a look and thanks…

ebay.us

Model Smoke Generator USB powered ultrasonic railway layout war diorama dolls | eBay UK

Possible uses include (though limited only by your imagination) - from model rail layouts and war gaming to static models, battle or industrial dioramas and dolls houses - possibly even Lego models. Although that said, it would work even if clipped to a wet sponge if not using the included wick.
ebay.us

It looks like we have moved on to water based smoke gen using ultrasonic.
I’m thinking the advantage is no oil purchase…. No heat….. and I could install a big water tank in the caboose so it can run a while?

Now… it’s usb so I’m guessing I would need to make a feed from my DCC track… so chip is 5v and track is 18v
Do I need to get a clever wire dude to figure this?
Or is it easy. ?

Also larger water tank means it can puff for some time but maybe I should add a small decoder to switch it on when we are watching?

Hope you are having a fab Sunday
Chris
Click to expand...
Oh and I guess 18v to 5 v can be done with a resistor ?
 
walkerart said:
Hi I had a look and thanks…

ebay.us

Model Smoke Generator USB powered ultrasonic railway layout war diorama dolls | eBay UK

Possible uses include (though limited only by your imagination) - from model rail layouts and war gaming to static models, battle or industrial dioramas and dolls houses - possibly even Lego models. Although that said, it would work even if clipped to a wet sponge if not using the included wick.
ebay.us

It looks like we have moved on to water based smoke gen using ultrasonic.
I’m thinking the advantage is no oil purchase…. No heat….. and I could install a big water tank in the caboose so it can run a while?

Now… it’s usb so I’m guessing I would need to make a feed from my DCC track… so chip is 5v and track is 18v
Do I need to get a clever wire dude to figure this?
Or is it easy. ?

Also larger water tank means it can puff for some time but maybe I should add a small decoder to switch it on when we are watching?

Hope you are having a fab Sunday
Chris
Click to expand...
 
walkerart said:
Hi I had a look and thanks…

ebay.us

Model Smoke Generator USB powered ultrasonic railway layout war diorama dolls | eBay UK

Possible uses include (though limited only by your imagination) - from model rail layouts and war gaming to static models, battle or industrial dioramas and dolls houses - possibly even Lego models. Although that said, it would work even if clipped to a wet sponge if not using the included wick.
ebay.us

It looks like we have moved on to water based smoke gen using ultrasonic.
I’m thinking the advantage is no oil purchase…. No heat….. and I could install a big water tank in the caboose so it can run a while?

Now… it’s usb so I’m guessing I would need to make a feed from my DCC track… so chip is 5v and track is 18v
Do I need to get a clever wire dude to figure this?
Or is it easy. ?

Also larger water tank means it can puff for some time but maybe I should add a small decoder to switch it on when we are watching?

Hope you are having a fab Sunday
Chris
Click to expand...
There has been a fair amount of interest lately in these misters. The biggest advantage is no oil residue on the surroundings. They also don't require nearly as much power, so are more suitable for battery operation. Check out the numerous videos on YouTube. One tip I remember is that they need to be right at the top of the stack/chimney or internal condensation can be a problem. Of course, too much indoor use could cause a humidity problem, so that might need to be taken into consideration. I have just bought four REA coaches that have smoke generators for the pot bellied stoves so that was fresh in my thinking. Good luck with your experimenting!
 
 
walkerart said:
Hi I had a look and thanks…

ebay.us

Model Smoke Generator USB powered ultrasonic railway layout war diorama dolls | eBay UK

Possible uses include (though limited only by your imagination) - from model rail layouts and war gaming to static models, battle or industrial dioramas and dolls houses - possibly even Lego models. Although that said, it would work even if clipped to a wet sponge if not using the included wick.
ebay.us

It looks like we have moved on to water based smoke gen using ultrasonic.
I’m thinking the advantage is no oil purchase…. No heat….. and I could install a big water tank in the caboose so it can run a while?

Now… it’s usb so I’m guessing I would need to make a feed from my DCC track… so chip is 5v and track is 18v
Do I need to get a clever wire dude to figure this?
Or is it easy. ?

Also larger water tank means it can puff for some time but maybe I should add a small decoder to switch it on when we are watching?

Hope you are having a fab Sunday
Chris
Click to expand...
Look at TRS Trains they are making vapour systems that link to your dcc chip to copy the speed in the steam effect. Also it gives steam vapour at the piston boxes …. Best I’ve seen (which means nothing )
But looks like it’s OO …. Have sent a mail to see if G can be done.
Chris
 
pugwash said:
Hi Chris and welcome to the funny farm, or forum as we like to call it.
I expect the digital whizzes will help you out but for that connecter plug I had one between a loco & tender which broke off just as yours has. The part is readily available and the fitting is easy, the connecter has teeth which go through the insulation of the wire and make contact with the core - no soldering! I think the wires snap off where they enter the plug due to being constantly flexed, they certainly were on my Nicki & Frank S.
Click to expand...
Hey hope you are good. I fixed it. They snap one push in the ends snap close boom
 
walkerart said:
Hey hope you are good. I fixed it. They snap one push in the ends snap close boom
Click to expand...
Great, I remembered something correctly, did it help to fix the problem?
 
Hi lovely folk, hope christmas and new year was wonderful and santa found some lovely train items.
I got a stunning water tower.
So the cowboy train is getting further.
Questions : Ive been told to reduce as many connections as possible, to keep the flow going. So do I cut other track to fill sections where this has suggested two small bits?

I have some brass track clamps... should I loose as many fishplates as pos?
With these is a side ring and bar for wires do I need to use these?
Im thinking of running two bus bars one for the track the other for lights and points.

So below is the station plan. keeping it simple.
Bottom green box is our potting table which im going to raise to have a small engine shed to keep them out of the worst of the rain.
Im guessing best bought inside in the winter unless out for a run?

Also last silly question. I tried leaving the track in coke in the bath... ( didn't tell my girl) it didn't really clean as much as I thought it may.
So LGB track rubber has cleaned up the head well enough..... is there something I can soak the fish plates in? or just bin them?

I have tested a vape disk on my caboose and it makes great smoke /steam which is great as water is free and the oil version is so expensive.

TVC make interesting vape modules all OO but Im going to look.

Oo ive made my first teepee and it looks fab.

Hope you are all well.

Chris





Screenshot 2026-02-12 at 01.29.26.png
 
walkerart said:
Hi lovely folk, hope christmas and new year was wonderful and santa found some lovely train items.
I got a stunning water tower.
So the cowboy train is getting further.
Questions : Ive been told to reduce as many connections as possible, to keep the flow going. So do I cut other track to fill sections where this has suggested two small bits?

I have some brass track clamps... should I loose as many fishplates as pos?
With these is a side ring and bar for wires do I need to use these?
Im thinking of running two bus bars one for the track the other for lights and points.

So below is the station plan. keeping it simple.
Bottom green box is our potting table which im going to raise to have a small engine shed to keep them out of the worst of the rain.
Im guessing best bought inside in the winter unless out for a run?

Also last silly question. I tried leaving the track in coke in the bath... ( didn't tell my girl) it didn't really clean as much as I thought it may.
So LGB track rubber has cleaned up the head well enough..... is there something I can soak the fish plates in? or just bin them?

I have tested a vape disk on my caboose and it makes great smoke /steam which is great as water is free and the oil version is so expensive.

TVC make interesting vape modules all OO but Im going to look.

Oo ive made my first teepee and it looks fab.

Hope you are all well.

Chris





View attachment 353137
Click to expand...
If you connect every piece of track to your busbar it matters not at all how clean or not the fishplates are. Yes a lot of soldering but doing it on the edge webb of the rail is much easier. Black wire to the rail will be near impossible to see. Just put a blob of red paint on one side to remember the poles, though I tend to cut some insulation off mains wire cut that into short 2-3mm lengths and thread that on one rail. I tend to think ‘inside rail’ and ‘outside rail’ thus deciding which will be the red wire on the bus up to your logic.
 
Ok Dunny sounds good.
Stupid Q.. so on the two wires of the bus I need to cut and add a spur off to the track head? I think I have some clips that do this without soldering… also the track connectors make a small loop you can add to bring in the wire.
Big job but no doubt worth it
 
walkerart said:
Ok Dunny sounds good.
Stupid Q.. so on the two wires of the bus I need to cut and add a spur off to the track head? I think I have some clips that do this without soldering… also the track connectors make a small loop you can add to bring in the wire.
Big job but no doubt worth it
Click to expand...
Ok so your bus could be via connectors of some sort, yes quite a few with a join for say 2or3 track sections to come off. There are screw in ‘choc strop’ connectors or push in types. Below are the push in types, these can be got in quite large multiples much cheeper via Amazon. Being used for lower voltage cable you will be able to get a good few wires in these.
www.toolstation.com

WAGO 221 2 Way Compact Lever Connectors

A two-way compact splicing connector with handy lever for quick and hassle-free installations. Use this pack of reusable Wago 221 connectors for solid, stranded and flexible cables.These connectors couldn't be easier to use - simply pull the lever up, insert a stripped conductor and push the...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
I guess you are talking about Massoth track connectors and yes I make a loop to go in the screw, I tend to solder up my loops to make them stronger but not really required.
 
Yes massoth loops which I think connect to the brass track connection….
Ok thanks for link… if I have two wires on the bus doesn’t this need to allow those two to go on and a spur of two go to the track ? Sorry
 
12Pcs T Tap Wire Connectors, 2 Pin Low Voltage Quick Splice Solderless with no Wire-Stripping Electrical Wire Connectors for Wires Connection 20-22 AWG, Heat Resistant for 12V, 24V DC Automotive
12Pcs T Tap Wire Connectors, 2 Pin Low Voltage Quick Splice Solderless with no Wire-Stripping Electrical Wire Connectors for Wires Connection 20-22 AWG, Heat Resistant for 12V, 24V DC Automotive : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Look at the image for black to black, then yellow to red will be the other side.
If you're using them to just connect 2 to 2, then only come out of one side ? If that makes sense.
 
Hi so I got these which is a T connector is this right ? Both bus wires travel through feeding sideways a feed to the track or lights?
Chris
 
So it’s these “cable lugs”
Are you saying get some and attach to as many joints as possible?
So one either side “red /black” twine the wire through long end possible solder and maybe shrink wrap to protect from weather?
Both these return to the T box to clip in meeting the bus ?
Any suggestions on which wire size…. Where’s Maplin when you need them
Chris
IMG_4811.jpegIMG_4811.jpeg
 
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