Zillertal "Raimund" on analogue power

R

RH Prague

Central European. the station pub is Czech !!
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I recently sold my Zillertal 20705 set locally, the buyer is new to "G" scale, and probably about as technically able as me. I did run "Raimund" during the summer and he ran fine as usual. However the buyer contacted my yesterday with a video of Raimund on test which does not look great at all. slow and jerky running. However he has assembled a test track entirely of R1 curves, and he's using power from an LGB starter set (fotos below). Since my railway is in winter hibernation I did not test it with him, but I am sure it's OK it has never had issues; so is it just lack of power plus endless R1 curves? In my shoes, and wanting to do the right thing by him, what would you recommend me to suggest/do?PHOTO-2024-01-14-18-38-06.jpgPHOTO-2024-01-14-13-21-27.jpg
 
I guess the quartering could be out?

Check if the counterweight on each wheel are aligned....
 
Gizzy said:
I guess the quartering could be out?

Check if the counterweight on each wheel are aligned....
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Are you kindly able to describe where the counterweight sits? ( I still have a U2 which I can look at for reference if you are able to guide me to the right point)

That said, I last used it in early July, running as normal after which it came inside and spent the rest of the time on the shelf. Can counterweights get out of alignment that easily?
 
dunnyrail said:
I also wonder if the track is clean and the viability of connections at the rail joints?
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It looks like the track is brand new out of the starter set he has acquired. I wish it were possible to post the videos he sent. What do you think about the starter pack power he is using? Should it be enough to power that loco? He actually sent me two videos, in the first he also had all three of the ZB coaches from the set on the track, and they have lights fitted, drawing from track power. So I asked him to take them off and see what difference there is. It looked like the loco was able to run a bit faster than before but certainly not smoothly or consistently. Also he is running it with lights and sound. If he turns them off and tries again, might we expect to see it a further improvement?

I suppose the easiest solution is to get it on to a proper working layout, but at this time of year easier said than done. It's been below freezing for a week. There's a shop I can take it to, but I'd only want to do that if I'm sure it isn't just the low power/R1 curves.
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I would clean the tyres, skates, and wheel-backs (where the carbon brushes rub..

The supply could be a little marginal, if the loco is struggling?

18Volts 36Watts,so 2Amps.

PhilP
 
PhilP said:
I would clean the tyres, skates, and wheel-backs (where the carbon brushes rub..

The supply could be a little marginal, if the loco is struggling?

18Volts 36Watts,so 2Amps.

PhilP
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I did clean all three as best I could before putting it up for sale (wheel -backs I find a problem to clean the entire wheel because the chassis doesn't allow a cotton bud to get further up the wheel)

But also - and I could very easily be wrong here - but isn't the controller only allowing 1 amp? All of us beginners were told to move on up from that kit asap.
 
Power should be OK - ish..

It appears to run better in reverse, which leads me to think it *might* be a mechanical problem? - Possibly one tooth out of quarter.

Probably be a case of fiddling one axle one tooth one way. If it doesn't help, move that axle two-teeth the other way..
This supposes that a wheel has not moved on one end of one axle.

PhilP
 
RH Prague said:
Are you kindly able to describe where the counterweight sits? ( I still have a U2 which I can look at for reference if you are able to guide me to the right point)

That said, I last used it in early July, running as normal after which it came inside and spent the rest of the time on the shelf. Can counterweights get out of alignment that easily?
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The counterweights are moulded into the wheels and on a model have no function.

But if you have an axle that has slipped a tooth, then you can see any mislignment easily.

I rotate the wheels so the counterweights on one side are all all the bottom. (On the other side they will be at 90 deg.) The cranks should be at the top.

On a six coupled loco this should be immediately apparent and will cause the problematic running you described....
 
RH Prague said:
I recently sold my Zillertal 20705 set locally, the buyer is new to "G" scale, and probably about as technically able as me. I did run "Raimund" during the summer and he ran fine as usual. However the buyer contacted my yesterday with a video of Raimund on test which does not look great at all. slow and jerky running. However he has assembled a test track entirely of R1 curves, and he's using power from an LGB starter set (fotos below). Since my railway is in winter hibernation I did not test it with him, but I am sure it's OK it has never had issues; so is it just lack of power plus endless R1 curves? In my shoes, and wanting to do the right thing by him, what would you recommend me to suggest/do?View attachment 322808View attachment 322809
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The LGB power supply and throttle is only 1 amp suitable for small locomotive starter sets such as a LGB Stainz and 2 - 3 two axle train cars. For larger LGB locomotives like the set you sold him, he should use the below LGB DC 5 amp power supply set or some other brand with equivalent-power.

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This is a very "minor" point but and not really effect this problem. they may need to keep an eye on the wires going into of the controller. The push type grips need to full grip the wire and can be temperamental from experience., there looks to be a difference in the amount of wire thats inserted (the Red sticks out more, and may only be gripping the insulation). as I say, a small thing but them basic controllers were always a little nasty.,
 
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