GTSR - Didcot Loco Works - it's time for a permanent way

Cobalt6700

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GTSR DLW

I have started this thread to document my progress with the layout I am building in my back garden.

The first post is detail and back history - feel free to pop to the second post if pictures are more your thing :).

I have some other project threads open;

WiDCC controller - a control PCB that takes RC Tx input or my own nRF24L01 controller input and generates a DCC signal to drive DCC decoders : *Link TBC*

I2CNet IO Controllers - these PCBs use an I2C Network to control various things around my layout. Servos, LED signals, LED lights, Point positions, Block detection, etc. : *Link TBC*



Some history on the GTSR and DLW:

The GTSR (Garf and Trude Southern Railway) began in mid 2019 when Trude (a good friend of mine) decided to put a track down in his garden on the grass with the little bit of track he owned. We had that DC layout down for a week or so.

Early 2020, he decided he wanted to build something that was going to last a bit longer, maybe a few months. He bought some more track to make it happen.
My thinking was if that was the case, then we needed a way of controlling the points and being able to drive more than one Loco on a single road without using DCC
(at the time, with the little I understood about DCC, it looked incredibly expensive and possibly unreliable outside). Here starts the real journey.
With the UK now in lockdown I decided that I needed a loco to prototype on and some track to test with. I found myself a cheap LGB 2080D that needed some work and some cheap-ish second hand track. This was assembled into a small temporary layout on my back garden patio to allow me to test locos.

Working around the lockdowns we managed to plan and build the layout in his garden, and have a few good weekends running.
There is a video from the 2020 layout here:


The first temporary layout was a great success. We learnt a lot, including that grass is bad for track power.
I hacked a 6CH RC radio set to have 14CH (FS-i6) and we controlled 3D printed (Dagnalls) servo point motors directly from that. Setting servo end points was a painful process, and we had noise issues with the length of the wires, but generally it worked okay.
The locos were controlled with the same brand of radio, again hacked to give more channels, and fitted with Arduino's on protoboard to decode and interface with motor controllers, Mylocosound cards, smoke units and lighting. In total, I converted 4 locos to trackpower/RC.

With the lockdowns continuing, we both had spare time on our hands, and this led to planning the 2021 layout and stock. We were both properly hooked on it now, and of course I had to buy another loco, an LGB 2040, which I kitted out with the next iteration of my loco controller - enabling homebrew servo pantographs, servo couplers (Dagnalls), PWM light control and sound via Mylocosound. I also designed and 3D printed a copy of the LGB low loader.

I upgraded the control system massively, building custom control PCB's, a differential I2C network, servo controlled semaphore signals and LED light signals. For further info - see my thread on the I2CNet controllers.

My buddy did the videos from last years layout, you can find them here:

Which brings us to 2022. I bought myself another 2 Locos, a 23900 with LGB remote couplers and a 21151 which needs some TLC. I have designed and prototyped my own radio controller which can drive both DC motor board locos and DCC decoder Locos, from either track or battery power.



Didcot Loco Works;

I have had a few temporary layouts in the back garden now, including one with a reversing loop which allowed me to develop my I2CNet controller to control reversing loops. One of my favorite pics from those is:

ukAH9AS.jpg


I had been toying with the idea of making something more permanent for me to be able to test Locos and to be able to enjoy the engines and stock I have gathered. One weekend last year I decided to get on and do it.

My garden has been mainly untouched since we moved in a few years ago, so much so that it was fairly overgrown and full of weeds.

BvCeq2a.jpg


I wanted to give myself a reason to sort out the garden, and get outside for a bit (I’m quite good at staying inside these days). My initial idea was to only use one side of the garden, keeping things small. I had been trying to avoid routing around the entire garden as this meant crossing the main thoroughfare in two places, one requiring a bridge.

jNX8x69.png


On investigation, actually fitting this into the available space was going to be difficult (like having to remove the peach tree), and not really give me ‘much’ to enjoy. After a bit of head scratching, getting an amazing deal on a POLA roundhouse, researching and discovering I could buy some really cool pointwork (I love points and would like to build my own - that’s for future me) I came up with this layout:

OfpOxEJ.png


This was going to involve an amount of groundwork as the garden wasn't level and I didn't want to cause myself the headache of gradients over short distances for my first proper layout.
 
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Cobalt6700

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First order of the day, clear the crap out of the garden and get an idea of what we had to work with.

oAFHy6i.jpg



Once I had cleared that side,I had a very rough level and launched a bit of track down to see how it looked.

6fPb8xL.jpg


ASM4Ioz.jpg


The works inspector made a visit to ensure the proper standards were being followed :wasntme:

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saOGfOT.jpg


OkKVSkV.jpg


Once I was happy this was going to work per my plan, I had a try out with a couple of buildings too.

8EUeYC3.jpg


LvgxMX2.jpg


On clearing I found the fence was a little wobbly - turns out one of the posts had rotted in the ground. A new fence post was made and installed.

3miZjqK.jpg


S9Uch3n.jpg


ognMa00.jpg


cGNWvwT.jpg


Much better, happy with that.


I had found that the border around the garden was very not level. Next job, dig up the border and re-level, leaving some depth for ballast.

JHucXjx.jpg


Once completed, I spread the remaining soil around and did a rough level in prep for ballast.

B1wMEvm.jpg


I had ordered some samples of ballast, left these down for a couple of days to see how I felt, and we both agreed the grey was the one.

T5FHVqw.jpg


We had used 10mm limestone on the temporary layouts as I spent some time researching ballast, and in the end went with 6mm basalt. Much better scale, no issues with corrosion (that I can find), plus it was cheaper than limestone. I have since found out that it is slightly magnetic. Hopefully this I’snt going to be an issue.

I had a pallet delivered which I thought easier than a bag to move around - this was a good choice. I could only order 1 ton, which I thought I would use most of. I still have ~400KG left over! I ended up being useful to compact the recently added soil.

e2adakl.jpg


I hadn’t quite made the desion on how I was going to base the Pola Roundhouse shed. One Saturday morning, I thought - I'll have a go at casting a concrete base. I popped into the local builders merchants to grab some pre-mix concrete, used an old bit of worktop and some scrap ply as a mold, and left it to set for a week.

eqMohQK.jpg


Whilst waiting weed fabric was laid down over all areas to be ballasted, and borders installed to wall in the ballast where required.

vTbJd2J.jpg


I had decided on extending the sidings up next to the house, after the purchase of a PIKO curved point and a LGB double-slip. This meant some of the patio needed to go.

My thinking was that using a disk cutter would be noisy and dirty - and that a slab splitter would be the best way forward. It sorta worked, it did break a few slabs which looks a bit crap it made a nice rustic edge.

Y7qWoue.jpg
 

Cobalt6700

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Now that the shed base was ready, I took it out of the mould. To my suprise, it came out okay.
Time for ballast.

I went with a depth of 35 - 40mm. This was after reading a few posts here about using ballast and making sure there was a good depth. In hindsight I could have gone deeper and/or put down a sharp sand base - you live and learn.

i3ycoAW.jpg


A quick test fit - looking good.

iYS3c61.jpg


Started to level the ballast, using the shed as the referance height.

7ycXr7D.jpg


9IMtMwD.jpg


ozVzLbL.jpg


9dCSnJT.jpg


I was concentrating on getting the platfrom area level - I plan to leave stock there whilst swapping locos so don't want it to run away.

ll2Loq8.jpg


Yep, that will do :)

QjHLvYG.jpg


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Very happy with how the Trainline45 track looks with the ballast

yMgA3ao.jpg


The last pic for this update - a NQD loco I picked up as 'spares or repairs' for a fiver. This is destined to be scenery - I've not done weathering before so would like to have a go one something I don't really mind getting wrong.

cYn0sdE.jpg
 

Paul M

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. I have designed and prototyped my own radio controller which can drive both DC motor board locos and DCC decoder Locos, from either track or battery power
That would extremely useful to many on this forum.
Looks like your line is coming on a treat :clap: :clap:
 

Cobalt6700

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That would extremely useful to many on this forum.
Looks like your line is coming on a treat :clap: :clap:

I have my first prototype up and running - I will try and get it all into a thread very soon :)

Thanks - most of this was end of last year, still waiting for the weather to come back to get on and do some more.
 

Cobalt6700

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With that side of the garden looking pretty good, it was time to move to the other side.

Again, laid out some track to check the current plan.

h9q1kLQ.jpg


s09NvAF.jpg


Happy with that - so got some balast down (and some tempory retaining wall)

8ANnCnv.jpg


iVY1HZ0.jpg


There was some more progress with the other side of the garden, working out exactly where track was going, and more levelling.

TKBsXae.jpg


MpfOlsz.jpg


UvYKb8p.jpg


IOMAm88.jpg


Whilst building the shed (dont have many pics of that) I decided I didn't like the grey doors and windows, time for some green.

NbK19Nf.jpg


Finished off assembling the shed once paint was dry, and got it setup out on the base. I'm really happy with how it looks.

sVdSELJ.jpg


The Krock looks right at home

QApsLKB.jpg



Had a go with balasting in the track on the other side of the garden. Hadn't really considered it, but brushing on the balast out of the bag left the sleepers rather dusty - and it has taken some time to come off. Future 'top balast' will be washed before going down.

OyNRDyb.jpg
 

Cobalt6700

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The bridge!

I mentioned in the first post that crossing the garden meant crossing the main throughfare. For this, I need an easy to remove bridge. I sketched ideas for a while before actually making anything, and luckly I had a sheet of 12mm ply that I had planned for a OO layout.

One nice weekend in October I got to building the bridge. The first bit is a permanent section that leads down the side of the bin shed.

rH8zH71.jpg


This needed a transiton piece to meet up with the raised rail bed

O9wVJMX.jpg


I also needed a piece at the other end that would transition and be a bridge support. I sunk a bit of spare fence post into the ground, concreted it in at the right level, and knocked up this bit to do the job.

1lJfDeO.jpg


This gave me two hard points that I could reference to make the bridge section. Set to a sheet with the jigsaw, and not long after I had this.

XUGvAvm.jpg



After a coat of paint, and letting it dry for 2 weeks, I got it back in the garden for another mock up.

Ca9FRNG.jpg


jajQPjH.jpg


I left the bridge support transition out in the weather for a week or so, the paint used didn't do too well at all, bubbled up and came off. I have now sanded them both back and repainted in an epoxy based paint. I will get some pics of that when the weather is better.

To finish off this chapter of the update, I will leave you with a couple of frosty pictures and a testing mishap.

exV7CZY.jpg


TRorZWG.jpg


gRp4msl.jpg


EHJ0GbQ.jpg


Thanks for reading - I hope to update further soon :)
 

dunnyrail

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You are certainly making a good start. Only point I would say is with the bridge, you may find that the ply used even if so called marine ply may not last as long as you would like. Tantalised planking would have been a better bet or even recycled plastic decking. BnQ do supply this. But it does have issues with expansion and may need more support over the distances. Perhaps as a longer term bridge you may consider either steel or ally sheet also available at BnQ, yes be more expensive but a rather nice bridge could be built with some of the patterned metal for the base, ally angle and some upright.
 

Cobalt6700

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You are certainly making a good start. Only point I would say is with the bridge, you may find that the ply used even if so called marine ply may not last as long as you would like. Tantalised planking would have been a better bet or even recycled plastic decking. BnQ do supply this. But it does have issues with expansion and may need more support over the distances. Perhaps as a longer term bridge you may consider either steel or ally sheet also available at BnQ, yes be more expensive but a rather nice bridge could be built with some of the patterned metal for the base, ally angle and some upright.
Thanks very much.

Yeah I have a feeling that it may not last that well. However, at some point in the not too distant future we would like to get a bigger house (this is our first) and I'm a little dubious to put lots of time and effort into making a very nice bridge to fit this specific gap.

The main bridge has been coated with 4 coats of '10 year' fence paint (dubious on the 10 year) and the ends have been coated with a fiber reinforced epoxy as they are sat in the ground. I'm hoping this has made them as waterproof as possible.

If it doesn't work out, then I may be forced to build a metal bridge. Handily, my brother has a metal fabrication business (and a laser), so I will send him a list of parts for a bridge kit.
 

David1226

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Handily, my brother has a metal fabrication business (and a laser), so I will send him a list of parts for a bridge kit.
It will be good to have his support.

David
 

Cobalt6700

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Well, not much has been happening outside, mainly due to weather and no light in the evenings, so I have been concentrating on getting the control system up together.


On the previous layout I built my own logic 'brain' to control all of the points, signals and sensors on the layout. This was both code intensive (having to manually program the actions / interlocks) and work intensive - building a wireless control panel.

Whilst I do love a physical panel with knobs and switches, it's not easily reconfigurable - and at a this stage I'm not really sure if what I have is going to stay that way. In the future I do want to build a physical panel, but will wait till I'm happy the layout is going to stay how it is.... (yeah, sure!).

With this in mind, I took to teaching myself how to use JMRI and have built the control system around that - letting JMRI do all the thinking - and generating the logic using a GUI (lush!). Here is what the main panel now looks like:

8UW3WbF.png


I also have a panel that lets me monitor the status of all of the controllers around the layout:

TV1fupJ.png


This has been bench tested and passed, the next step is to build all of the controllers. I am finishing the PCB layout for the V1.1 controllers, but here is a pic of what the current V1.0 looks like:

to0hCGc.jpg


This one is setup to be a test bed, so has 2 Red / Green signal channels setup, 11 Sensor/Servo channels, 1 PWM for Signal brightness, 1 PWM on the relay out, and 1 relay coil.


I have also been working on the the points, modding the LGB 3-way with added check rails:

9aqmPvP.jpg


9AUpkLh.jpg


Plus, I built a little POLA tractor I found on the usual auction site:

hPm5Ohd.jpg


bXcSSgc.jpg





Thanks for reading, I will be back soon with some further updates :)
 

Paul M

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Haven't control panels come a long way since using old GPO relays:rofl:
 

dunnyrail

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With that side of the garden looking pretty good, it was time to move to the other side.

Again, laid out some track to check the current plan.

h9q1kLQ.jpg


s09NvAF.jpg


Happy with that - so got some balast down (and some tempory retaining wall)

8ANnCnv.jpg


iVY1HZ0.jpg


There was some more progress with the other side of the garden, working out exactly where track was going, and more levelling.

TKBsXae.jpg


MpfOlsz.jpg


UvYKb8p.jpg


IOMAm88.jpg


Whilst building the shed (dont have many pics of that) I decided I didn't like the grey doors and windows, time for some green.

NbK19Nf.jpg


Finished off assembling the shed once paint was dry, and got it setup out on the base. I'm really happy with how it looks.

sVdSELJ.jpg


The Krock looks right at home

QApsLKB.jpg



Had a go with balasting in the track on the other side of the garden. Hadn't really considered it, but brushing on the balast out of the bag left the sleepers rather dusty - and it has taken some time to come off. Future 'top balast' will be washed before going down.

OyNRDyb.jpg
I would not bother washing off the dust, when applied try a gentle brush with an old paint brush will sort most of it. That dust will help bind the ballast together over time and any remaining dust will be washed Off the rails and sleepers next rain. If it still aggravates you you could give a gentle wash with a hose on fine spray at low pressure.
 

idlemarvel

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I thought I was mad on control panels and signalling but your layout takes the biscuit.

This is the first time I've had a chance to read this thread from the beginning. Excellent planning and execution on all fronts.

Is that you in the first picture of post #2? If so you are a dead ringer for my eldest son!
 

Paul M

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I thought I was mad on control panels and signalling but your layout takes the biscuit.
I suppose there's a computer programme that gives a you chance to use a virtual signal box of one of the big stations, which would be fun
 

a98087

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Amazing work, just wondered if your were going to include any feathers/junction indicators on the signals?
such as signal CL14 could have one to

I’ve no idea if it’s possible using your chosen software

only asking as it’s easier to do it now rather than later,

Dan
 

Cobalt6700

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Haven't control panels come a long way since using old GPO relays:rofl:
Haven't they just! If I had the time and money I would love to do relay logic.

I would not bother washing off the dust, when applied try a gentle brush with an old paint brush will sort most of it. That dust will help bind the ballast together over time and any remaining dust will be washed Off the rails and sleepers next rain. If it still aggravates you you could give a gentle wash with a hose on fine spray at low pressure.
Thanks, I did try brushing and a sprinkle with the hose and a brush, didn't want to come off. 5 months of being outside has sorted it though.

I thought I was mad on control panels and signalling but your layout takes the biscuit.

This is the first time I've had a chance to read this thread from the beginning. Excellent planning and execution on all fronts.

Is that you in the first picture of post #2? If so you are a dead ringer for my eldest son!
Thanks very much! Let's hope it all works :D

Cheers, it's been in my head for a while, its really good to be getting it out into an actual thing.

It is indeed :)

I suppose there's a computer programme that gives a you chance to use a virtual signal box of one of the big stations, which would be fun
I know there is one for the London underground that exists somewhere. The only 'virtual' signal box copy of an actual signal box that I know of is at Didcot Signalling Centre, which is a copy of the old Swindon panel, using JMRI as a backend. The Signalling Centre | Didcot Railway Centre

Amazing work, just wondered if your were going to include any feathers/junction indicators on the signals?
such as signal CL14 could have one to

I’ve no idea if it’s possible using your chosen software

only asking as it’s easier to do it now rather than later,

Dan
Thanks Dan. That is the plan for the future. I have left spare addresses and outputs on the controllers to be able to do that.

So far with JMRI I haven't yet come across something I can't do. Adding feathers is pretty easy software wise.
 

idlemarvel

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