What's the point?

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Paradise

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28 Jan 2010
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Yesterday a hugemungous box arrived from Modell-Land in Germany. On it's end it is the size of a washing machine.
View attachment 251925
When I saw the Modell-Land.de sticker and box size I was expecting a HSB mallet with lots of outer box padding.
Train-li in the USA sell the exact same TrainLine45 points but as ProSwitch in different TrainLine45 marked boxes only half the height.
 
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phils2um

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11 Sep 2015
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Ann Arbor, Michigan
While it is not exact, one of the most useful references I've come across for g gauge curves is on the Trainli site under switches which lists curves in ascending order from all the major manufactures and includes their respective "R" numbers. I was going to post a link but couldn't find one that was direct. Go to "trainli">"track ,switches, tools">"switches" and you can see the table.

Phil S.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
22,702
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Tamworth, Staffs.
Proline will never catch on!

Not with a sensible numbering system like that! :rolleyes:

So, did Aristocraft only ever make the two radii? - I ask, as I have some (I believe, no markings) large-radius curved points, supposedly Aristo.. :think:
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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27 Oct 2009
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So, did Aristocraft only ever make the two radii? - I ask, as I have some (I believe, no markings) large-radius curved points, supposedly Aristo.. :think:
Three - R1, Extra wide, and #6 ........... and not any curved points to my knowledge
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
22,702
229
Tamworth, Staffs.
Thanks Ian..

Perhaps I am thinking of the Aristo curved tracks? - I know I have a shed-load (literally! ;) ) of the stuff. - Problem is, they never marked-up their track, so working out if it is a set radius, or a length of flexi, that has been custom-curved, is a PITA! :(

Anyways..............
To the OP:
I think the point (no pun) of the large box, and extra packaging, is that long-ish thin boxes get bent in transit.. So to avoid your points arriving damaged, they over-protect them. :think::think:
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
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- Problem is, they never marked-up their track, so working out if it is a set radius,
And they used standard sleeper sections under purgatory for different radii - so, no you won't know what you've got unless you have some flexi-templates, or a length of string and a tent peg ;);)
 
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dennishodge

Registered
21 Feb 2018
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3
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Bellevue, WA, USA
Train-Li did a good thing but IMO they should have flipped it to the architectural designation, 2R, 3R, 4R etc. for radii to avoid giving exactly the same name as a differently-sized track from LGB or Piko.
 
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dennishodge

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21 Feb 2018
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Bellevue, WA, USA
Paul. Did you fix the slightly faulty Trail-li one?
The one via the below link on Train-li.com has been incorrect on the first few lines since the year dot. I informed them ages ago but... :tmi:
There are no 1ft radius points. Straight G-scale switch
The main Switches landing page (G-scale switches) has been corrected but the sub-pages (Straight, Curved) are still incorrect.
 
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Paradise

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28 Jan 2010
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Chris Vernell

Chris Vernell

Bewildered
24 Oct 2009
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Nepean, ON
Even that has the Aristo Extra Wide in the wrong place - should be 5' radius :nod::nod: ............... I think :think::think:
Yes, the X-wide points match Aristo's "10-foot" (diameter) curves (actually 3000 mm diameter, or 9'10").
Overlaying an LGB R3 on an Aristo X-wide displays a distinct difference in the radii.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,502
51
North Essex
I've used several Trainline45 points (the R3/120cm ones) on the ground-level section of my line, and they seem to work very nicely - the only problem I've had is that even without powering the little brass insert in the frog, the ends of the live rails are very close together at the frog compared with LGB or Piko points - close enough that shorting problems can occur with some loco pickup skates, especially on Piko locos. I know there are several fixes for this, including bending the skates slightly or putting a brass shim on them, but what I've done is to simply put a small bit of black insulating tape onto one rail on the point, just enough to stop the problem occurring.

Jon.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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27 Oct 2009
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North West Norfolk
I've used several Trainline45 points (the R3/120cm ones) on the ground-level section of my line, and they seem to work very nicely - the only problem I've had is that even without powering the little brass insert in the frog, the ends of the live rails are very close together at the frog compared with LGB or Piko points - close enough that shorting problems can occur with some loco pickup skates, especially on Piko locos. I know there are several fixes for this, including bending the skates slightly or putting a brass shim on them, but what I've done is to simply put a small bit of black insulating tape onto one rail on the point, just enough to stop the problem occurring.

Jon.
Nasty things, skates, don't like 'um :shake::shake::shake:

But that's only because I don't have any locos fitted with skates. The real question would be, if I had a loco fitted with skates, what would I do :think::think::think::think:
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,502
51
North Essex
Nasty things, skates, don't like 'um :shake::shake::shake:

But that's only because I don't have any locos fitted with skates. The real question would be, if I had a loco fitted with skates, what would I do :think::think::think::think:
Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree..... ;)

Jon.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
24,428
290
North West Norfolk
Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree..... ;)

Jon.
I think they help to keep the track clean - I have to fight a bit harder to keep my track powered locos running smoothly, while the shorter wheelbase locos are battery powered.

To be fair, I've only every had one LGB loco - the USA 2-4-0 fat boy, and I sold that as I wanted locos with more wheels >:)>:)>:)>:)
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree..... ;)

Jon.
Have to agree with Jon., if you are using Track Power then the Skates do give that dual purpose of helping with Track Contact and also add a little cleaning effort. Try testing out a Stainz or any 0-4-0 without them and see how they run. Stainz has effectively only 1 Pickup on one side (sans Skates) as one of the Wheels has Traction Tyres, even though Pickup plungers are connected and the Flanges May pick up a little juice. Stainz or any other 0-4-0 would be severely constrained by the lack of the Skates for any meaning full running.

Meanwhile I remove them for Battery Conversions, but as has been said many time that is another story.