When I saw the Modell-Land.de sticker and box size I was expecting a HSB mallet with lots of outer box padding.
Train-li in the USA sell the exact same TrainLine45 points but as ProSwitch in different TrainLine45 marked boxes only half the height.
What's the point?
- Thread starter Gardenbahner
- Start date
When I saw the Modell-Land.de sticker and box size I was expecting a HSB mallet with lots of outer box padding.
Train-li in the USA sell the exact same TrainLine45 points but as ProSwitch in different TrainLine45 marked boxes only half the height.
While it is not exact, one of the most useful references I've come across for g gauge curves is on the Trainli site under switches which lists curves in ascending order from all the major manufactures and includes their respective "R" numbers. I was going to post a link but couldn't find one that was direct. Go to "trainli">"track ,switches, tools">"switches" and you can see the table.
Phil S.
Phil S.
Even that has the Aristo Extra Wide in the wrong place - should be 5' radius
............... I think 
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So, did Aristocraft only ever make the two radii? - I ask, as I have some (I believe, no markings) large-radius curved points, supposedly Aristo..
Three - R1, Extra wide, and #6 ........... and not any curved points to my knowledge
Thanks Ian..
Perhaps I am thinking of the Aristo curved tracks? - I know I have a shed-load (literally!
) of the stuff. - Problem is, they never marked-up their track, so working out if it is a set radius, or a length of flexi, that has been custom-curved, is a PITA! 
Anyways..............
To the OP:
I think the point (no pun) of the large box, and extra packaging, is that long-ish thin boxes get bent in transit.. So to avoid your points arriving damaged, they over-protect them.
Perhaps I am thinking of the Aristo curved tracks? - I know I have a shed-load (literally!
) of the stuff. - Problem is, they never marked-up their track, so working out if it is a set radius, or a length of flexi, that has been custom-curved, is a PITA! Anyways..............
To the OP:
I think the point (no pun) of the large box, and extra packaging, is that long-ish thin boxes get bent in transit.. So to avoid your points arriving damaged, they over-protect them.
And they used standard sleeper sections under purgatory for different radii - so, no you won't know what you've got unless you have some flexi-templates, or a length of string and a tent peg
Paul. Did you fix the slightly faulty Trail-li one?
The one via the below link on Train-li.com has been incorrect on the first few lines since the year dot. I informed them ages ago but...
There are no 1ft radius points. Straight G-scale switch
The main Switches landing page (G-scale switches) has been corrected but the sub-pages (Straight, Curved) are still incorrect.Paul. Did you fix the slightly faulty Trail-li one?
The one via the below link on Train-li.com has been incorrect on the first few lines since the year dot. I informed them ages ago but...
There are no 1ft radius points. Straight G-scale switch
Yes, the X-wide points match Aristo's "10-foot" (diameter) curves (actually 3000 mm diameter, or 9'10").Even that has the Aristo Extra Wide in the wrong place - should be 5' radius
Overlaying an LGB R3 on an Aristo X-wide displays a distinct difference in the radii.
I've used several Trainline45 points (the R3/120cm ones) on the ground-level section of my line, and they seem to work very nicely - the only problem I've had is that even without powering the little brass insert in the frog, the ends of the live rails are very close together at the frog compared with LGB or Piko points - close enough that shorting problems can occur with some loco pickup skates, especially on Piko locos. I know there are several fixes for this, including bending the skates slightly or putting a brass shim on them, but what I've done is to simply put a small bit of black insulating tape onto one rail on the point, just enough to stop the problem occurring.
Jon.
Jon.
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Nasty things, skates, don't like 'um
But that's only because I don't have any locos fitted with skates. The real question would be, if I had a loco fitted with skates, what would I do
Nasty things, skates, don't like 'um
But that's only because I don't have any locos fitted with skates. The real question would be, if I had a loco fitted with skates, what would I do
Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree.....
Jon.
I think they help to keep the track clean - I have to fight a bit harder to keep my track powered locos running smoothly, while the shorter wheelbase locos are battery powered.Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree.....
Jon.
To be fair, I've only every had one LGB loco - the USA 2-4-0 fat boy, and I sold that as I wanted locos with more wheels
Have to agree with Jon., if you are using Track Power then the Skates do give that dual purpose of helping with Track Contact and also add a little cleaning effort. Try testing out a Stainz or any 0-4-0 without them and see how they run. Stainz has effectively only 1 Pickup on one side (sans Skates) as one of the Wheels has Traction Tyres, even though Pickup plungers are connected and the Flanges May pick up a little juice. Stainz or any other 0-4-0 would be severely constrained by the lack of the Skates for any meaning full running.Well, if all your locos run fine without skates, then by all means remove them..... I feel that they do serve a purpose in many cases, so prefer to leave them on wherever practical. Others may (and probably do) disagree.....
Jon.
Meanwhile I remove them for Battery Conversions, but as has been said many time that is another story.