Terminal And Wire Size G Scale/Gauge Locomotives.

AJtheTeacher

AJtheTeacher

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Good morning fellow G Enthusiasts!

I am repairing some crappy OEM Aristo-Craft wiring. I want to stock up on the terminals and wire used. (I have been using wire from old computers)

0CB61874-7C52-498A-B31A-E98B710975F1.jpeg Can someone please tell me what size the round eye terminals are and what size/gauge wire that they use? Thanks.

Enjoy your trains as much as possible! AJ the Teacher
 
AJtheTeacher said:
Good morning fellow G Enthusiasts!

I am repairing some crappy OEM Aristo-Craft wiring. I want to stock up on the terminals and wire used. (I have been using wire from old computers)

View attachment 307753 Can someone please tell me what size the round eye terminals are and what size/gauge wire that they use? Thanks.

Enjoy your trains as much as possible! AJ the Teacher
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White wire is 26AWG (printed on it) the Green and Black are probably the same.

For the terminals I would either measure them, take one to a electrical supply store as a comparison or pry them open, solder the wire to them and re-crimp.
 
I have only installed Massoth, and ESU large scale loco decoders myself. I could not find specific recommendations from either of these makers. MLGB (55029) does recommend a minimum of 24 awg (0.2 mm^2) for track, motor, and speaker connections and 26 awg minimum (0.1 mm^2) for lighting connections. I would assume 24 awg minimum for smoke units too.

I have been using 24 awg silicone insulated wire from BNTECHGO which is very flexible and easy to work with. They have some reasonably priced 10 color wire kits available.

So far as ring terminals - get some that are designed for the size wire you end up using. Check out Mouser, Digi-Key, RS Electronics, etc. Various size eyes are available. I've found Mouser Part No. 571-31264 to be a good size, non-insulated general purpose ring terminal. Sized for 16-22 awg crimp and a #6 stud/screw. I solder them after crimping and strip enough to bend the strands back on themselves before crimping when attaching them to 24 awg or smaller wire. These are great for DCC switch decoder to track connections when using Split-Jaw rail-clamps.
 
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As for the brass terminal things. Strip a good length of wire, wind the end round so that all close together. Then wrap round a suitable sized screwdriver to make a circle wrap excess wire round by the insulation. Now a bit of flux on and touch with the iron with some solder. Clean the loop and you will have a good substitute.
 
AJtheTeacher said:
Thanks Greg and everyone for your thoughts and input! As I re-do these wires, I will be soldering the wires to the terminals. Thank you. AJ the Teacher
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In which case buy proper solder terminals.
 
You still need to crimp the connectors... done correctly, solder not needed. without crimping, you don't have strain relief.

That is one of the keys to crimp connectors. Soldering to a crimp connector radically INCREASES the chance of the wire fracturing.

The crimping tool will last you as long as you live. don't get the cheap one that just squishes the connector into an oval, and don't use pliers. Do the job right, and do it once forever.

Greg
 
I have a crimping tool and have never been fully sure how to use it. You Tube as ever just came to my rescue, ok a cheepo sort of Pidl tool but for most mere mortals it would be fine. Only point it I was a little irritated that he did not use a set of tweezers to get the varying crimps out of the box, struggling with fat podgy digits.
 
dunnyrail said:
I have a crimping tool and have never been fully sure how to use it. You Tube as ever just came to my rescue, ok a cheepo sort of Pidl tool but for most mere mortals it would be fine. Only point it I was a little irritated that he did not use a set of tweezers to get the varying crimps out of the box, struggling with fat podgy digits.
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Looks a handy tool, but will it crimp the type of lug shown in the orpicture above?
 
You need the correct tool, for the type of terminal..
But a moot-point, if the OP is re-using terminals that have already been crimped?

If you solder a wire to a crimp:
If you use a piece of heatshrink, you not only insulate the 'shaft' of the crimp, but provide support / strain-relief, for the wire. :nerd:

PhilP
 
Exactly on both counts. The strain relief issue that you want a flexible "transition" from the soldered part to the plain wire part, otherwise you set the situation where any flexing gets concentrate right at a single point and it will fracture.

If you ever work on an aerospace (plane or rocket) this is very carefully monitored. I like stuff that done once can last for 20 years, not 6 months.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Exactly on both counts. The strain relief issue that you want a flexible "transition" from the soldered part to the plain wire part, otherwise you set the situation where any flexing gets concentrate right at a single point and it will fracture.

If you ever work on an aerospace (plane or rocket) this is very carefully monitored. I like stuff that done once can last for 20 years, not 6 months.

Greg
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The aerospace business uses PTT, somewhat more expensive than we use, and need to have their calibration tested every 6 months, so slightly different, but the principle remain the same.
 
Yeah, I was speaking the older stuff when they used crimp terminals like us regular humans can use.

My company has to use all kinds of specialized connectors, and every dang one seems to use a specialized crimper for it's pins... a real racket, many tools have torque calibration regimes like you speak of, and NONE of them are cheap.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Exactly on both counts. The strain relief issue that you want a flexible "transition" from the soldered part to the plain wire part, otherwise you set the situation where any flexing gets concentrate right at a single point and it will fracture.

If you ever work on an aerospace (plane or rocket) this is very carefully monitored. I like stuff that done once can last for 20 years, not 6 months.

Greg
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Now this IS rocket science :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Exactly on both counts. The strain relief issue that you want a flexible "transition" from the soldered part to the plain wire part, otherwise you set the situation where any flexing gets concentrate right at a single point and it will fracture.

If you ever work on an aerospace (plane or rocket) this is very carefully monitored. I like stuff that done once can last for 20 years, not 6 months.

Greg
Click to expand...
My experience in aerospace is crimps are used sparingly, most terminals use a solder inside the connector with heatshrink outer.
Heatgun melts solder onto the wire and the heatshrink provides the strain relief, then usually a clamp is used to hold the wiring loom secure.
Crimps are used very rarely in high vibration situations eg helicopters.

You are correct about being monitored tradesman does the job, signs for it, and a certifying supervisor signs off on an inspection.
In some cases usually critical systems, eg life support or armaments, a third level inspector (independant) signs off.
Crimps are used extremely rarely in high vibration situations eg helicopters.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Yeah, I was speaking the older stuff when they used crimp terminals like us regular humans can use.

My company has to use all kinds of specialized connectors, and every dang one seems to use a specialized crimper for it's pins... a real racket, many tools have torque calibration regimes like you speak of, and NONE of them are cheap.

Greg
Click to expand...
I am talking 1980s PTT, and PTT testing has been used in the UK for 40 years that I know of, and maybe longer.
 
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