Terminal And Wire Size G Scale/Gauge Locomotives.

[Greg Elmassian]

If you read the web (since you may not be an electrical engineer) you would see that soldering a crimp connector is normally not recommended.

Solder or crimp, endless debate. Doing both on a crimp terminal is not rcommended.

Now in our hobby, will it make a difference? Probably not, but soldering not needed, and if you solder a crimp terminal, you need to add the extra step of strain relief.

This is NOT a belt and suspenders thing, this is a "use a belt improperly" thing. I won't debate it here, google it yourself and tally the opinions.

Greg

 

[Paul M]

If you read the web (since you may not be an electrical engineer) you would see that soldering a crimp connector is normally not recommended.

Solder or crimp, endless debate. Doing both on a crimp terminal is not rcommended.

Now in our hobby, will it make a difference? Probably not, but soldering not needed, and if you solder a crimp terminal, you need to add the extra step of strain relief.

This is NOT a belt and suspenders thing, this is a "use a belt improperly" thing. I won't debate it here, google it yourself and tally the opinions.

Like all things it needs to be done well.
A good and proper crimped joint won't need soldering, an d a good proper soldered joint won't need crimping. Although with the type of crimps above, I'd probably put some heat shrink insulation around the where the cable insulation is crimped

 

[JimmyB]

If you read the web (since you may not be an electrical engineer) you would see that soldering a crimp connector is normally not recommended.

Solder or crimp, endless debate. Doing both on a crimp terminal is not rcommended.

Now in our hobby, will it make a difference? Probably not, but soldering not needed, and if you solder a crimp terminal, you need to add the extra step of strain relief.

This is NOT a belt and suspenders thing, this is a "use a belt improperly" thing. I won't debate it here, google it yourself and tally the opinions.

Greg

Greg, as mine was the previous post, replying to you, is this pointed at me. If so, I am not sure why, as PTT has nothing to do with soldered connections, if you read the web it will explain.

Back to Basics: History of Connectors and Termination Tooling - Wiring Harness News

History of Connectors and Termination Tooling Since the beginning of flight and early propulsion systems, electrical conductors have been used to transmit a signal throughout the aircraft. As air travel evolved, so did the requirements for wire harnesses and connectors used in these systems...

wiringharnessnews.com

 

[Greg Elmassian]

not pointing at you jimmy, to discussion in general

 

[GAP]

Greg, as mine was the previous post, replying to you, is this pointed at me. If so, I am not sure why, as PTT has nothing to do with soldered connections, if you read the web it will explain.

Back to Basics: History of Connectors and Termination Tooling - Wiring Harness News

History of Connectors and Termination Tooling Since the beginning of flight and early propulsion systems, electrical conductors have been used to transmit a signal throughout the aircraft. As air travel evolved, so did the requirements for wire harnesses and connectors used in these systems...

wiringharnessnews.com

Hell Jimmy did you have to post that article???
I will have nightmares till the New Year about it, talk about a blast from a past life of crawling around inside flying machines.
Thought I had exorcised MIL Standards from my life

 

[phils2um]

Not only did I solder my crimped ring terminals I actually had the temerity to bend them from their pristine shape too! Now I know I'm going to rot in Hell!

 

[PhilP]

You'll be fine, as long as you don't use the layout in a plane!

PhilP.

 

[dunnyrail]

Not only did I solder my crimped ring terminals I actually had the temerity to bend them from their pristine shape too! Now I know I'm going to rot in Hell!

View attachment 307846

Hm good job, looks like quite a bit of “blood letting” was involved. Always the sign of a job done well!

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Jimmy, the "B" crimp and "nest and indent" crimp are what are commonly available to the average do it yourself guy.

I like the "B" crimp, but on typical crimp connectors here, the uninsulated ones have a "B" crimp on the wire, and a simple circular crimp on the insulation.

On insulated terminals, we usually use the "nest and indent" since you have to get through the insulation to add pressure.

It's also hard to explain to people that for insulated terminals, the "indendor" pin in the tool goes on the side that is NOT split.

Once you show someone the before and after it makes sense to everyone I have ever showed, I learned this in 1967 from an engineer who actually designed and worked on avionics, a company named Autonetics.

Autonetics - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

So, your mileage may vary, but that's how it is done over here. The fancy circular crimpers with multiple indents are not things most hobbyists can afford, the pins, tools and connectors are very expensive.

greg

 

[Airbuspilot]

Not only did I solder my crimped ring terminals I actually had the temerity to bend them from their pristine shape too! Now I know I'm going to rot in Hell!

View attachment 307846

Hi Phil

I was about to post a message regarding power connections to external track.

I am using the standard screw type track inter connectors which are fine for joining track but I was looking for something a little more robust for an electrical connection, I have had problems with the LGB standard screw connections. The connectors in your picture look to be exactly what I am looking for, can you give me a reference / link for them please?

Robin

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Those are split jaw, but you don't need the full length clamp to attach power.

1/2 length code 332 power connector clamp set (2 per set) | www.RAILCLAMP.com

SImilar to our light-duty power connect but 1/2 length allows you to easily drop in between ties or on curves. Great for isolated sections, accessory controls or for troubleshooting dead spots. Brass code 332 fits: LGB, Aristo-Craft, USA Trains, PIKO. Uses the same top quality USA-made Stainless...

www.railclamp.com

 

[viaEstrecha]

Hi Phil

I was about to post a message regarding power connections to external track.

I am using the standard screw type track inter connectors which are fine for joining track but I was looking for something a little more robust for an electrical connection, I have had problems with the LGB standard screw connections. The connectors in your picture look to be exactly what I am looking for, can you give me a reference / link for them please?

Robin

I used to be able to obtain ML-Trains ones very like Greg showed, via Amazon.de, but they've now closed that particular post-Brexit back door Since then, I have used these from GRS, both as joiners and with solder tags to provide power connection, since they too are absolutely OK and actually available in Little Britain! GRS rail joiners I always file the rail surface shiny and apply graphite grease before attaching them. If you want them to be unobtrusive and used as just power connectors, you can cut them in half too.

 

[phils2um]

Here's my opinion. take it for what it's worth -

I do not like using the Massoth type (ML-Trains, Trainli, etc.) joiners for track power supply. I like to really tighten (perhaps over-tighten?) my track power connections. I've found the wire tabs provided for these joiners tend to break when put under the screw head. The cone shaped taper of the screw head will split the ring where it pinches against the rail when tightened to my satisfaction. And, the tab thickness upsets seating of the rail when it is put under the foot of the rail. The Massoth type joiners do work great as rail joiners though. They are less obtrusive than Split-Jaw joiners. I like the way the screw "bites" into the foot of brass rail making a very solid rail connection. And, I really like Massoth insulating rail joiners - I can't recommend these high enough when you need to insulate a code 332 rail joint! I'm using Massoth type joiners almost exclusively now except where I need to connect wires to the rails. Here, I revert to the Split-Jaw clamps. I much prefer the way the Split-Jaw allen head cap screws secure a correct size ring terminal to the joiner/rail. The bigger diameter screw size, 6-32 vice M3, lets me really tighten them down too.

Edit added - Luckily, I have easy access to both types joiner so can pick and choose as I please!

Second edit added - I'm not afraid to take a Dremel and carbide cut-off wheel to a standard rail joiner to make two "half-length" joiners when it better suits my purpose. Cheaper than buying half-lengths plus I've always got some full-length joiners on-hand.

 

[phils2um]

The connectors in your picture look to be exactly what I am looking for, can you give me a reference / link for them please?

Forgot to mention with all my pontificating that Greg provided a link to the Split-Jaw site on post #31

 

[Airbuspilot]

Forgot to mention with all my pontificating that Greg provided a link to the Split-Jaw site on post #31

Thanks Phil and Greg

I think the half size device in Gregs link would be perfect but I guess only available in the US, delivery to Cyprus may be an issue?

We are using the rail joiners as in post 32 and they work perfectly but like Phil I do not like the idea of the tapered screw either, I have used soldered and crimped connectors without problems so far but I'm not sure of long life expectancy.

I will try to obtain some Railclamp connectors from the US but probably not much hope of success.

Robin

 

[phils2um]

I will try to obtain some Railclamp connectors from the US but probably not much hope of success.

I was about to say they send goods to Canada and Cyprus can't be much different until I remembered NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement between Mexico, Canada and the U.S.) I would contact Split-Jaw by email through their website anyway. I'd be surprised if they don't have experience with International shipments.

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi Phil

I was about to post a message regarding power connections to external track.

I am using the standard screw type track inter connectors which are fine for joining track but I was looking for something a little more robust for an electrical connection, I have had problems with the LGB standard screw connections. The connectors in your picture look to be exactly what I am looking for, can you give me a reference / link for them please?

Robin

Despite the doubts about Massoth Track Clamps for track power, I used them very happily for my track power days in excess of 10 years over 2 lines with no issues. My method was to make a soldered loop and thread the screw through the loop, an application of LGB graphite grease also helped. Over tightening is asking for trouble, just nice and tight is fine.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

The new owner of Split Jaw is a very nice guy, interested in growing the business, drop them an email and also say "Greg Elmassian recommended me"... seriously.

Greg

 

[Airbuspilot]

The new owner of Split Jaw is a very nice guy, interested in growing the business, drop them an email and also say "Greg Elmassian recommended me"... seriously.

Greg

I have sent a message, including your name, let’s see what he can do