SPRINGS FOR TURNOUTS

Madman

Madman

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I presently use small rubber bands to keep three LGB 1500 series turnouts in a designated position. the weight of the train moves the points as it passes over them. However, the rubber bands only last two weeks on average. Fortunately, they were free. I wonder if there is a good spring for this purpose? I thought of ball point pen springs, but they rust and are not reliable. I could electrify them, but I want to keep it simple.
 
Madman said:
I presently use small rubber bands to keep three LGB 1500 series turnouts in a designated position. the weight of the train moves the points as it passes over them. However, the rubber bands only last two weeks on average. Fortunately, they were free. I wonder if there is a good spring for this purpose? I thought of ball point pen springs, but they rust and are not reliable. I could electrify them, but I want to keep it simple.
Click to expand...

1500 turnouts? I wasn't aware that LGB made any? only 1100 and 1600 But the info is the same for both. if you want them to spring back to the designated route then you need the little LGB manual switch throws and these will always spring back to the set route. If you want them to stay on the route that the loco pushes through then you need the electrical switches which will always stay in the route as pushed through even unpowered, if you power them you can obvously set the route remotely.
 
Madman said:
I presently use small rubber bands to keep three LGB 1500 series turnouts in a designated position. the weight of the train moves the points as it passes over them. However, the rubber bands only last two weeks on average. Fortunately, they were free. I wonder if there is a good spring for this purpose? I thought of ball point pen springs, but they rust and are not reliable. I could electrify them, but I want to keep it simple.
Click to expand...

I use the LGB 12060 Manual Switch as Minimans describes.

For sidings I set trailing points for the siding, so a train 'pushes' through on the main line, before reversing back into the siding.

I even do the same for the run round loop at my terminus Station. The points are set for the run round so a loco will push through the point, reverse and move along the route set by the switch to the next crossover.

A simple form of automation without extra complication....

http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/lgb-12060-switch-drive-manual-2-pieces-382-p.asp
 
I didn't like the point boxes so I use a length of piano wire on the inside of whichever rail I am trying to push over. Sometimes I've been able to squeeze the wire between the ends of the chairs and the rail, but in this piccy I've secured it with a little solder. I bend the end of the wire slightly to apply just enough pressure. It does rust, but this bit has been in place for three years.
f1437951123441218c8cedbac2666986.jpg
 
Dave, that's a good idea. I tried using LGB manual switch throws, but they were not reurning the points back to their original position consistantly.
 
Madman said:
....I tried using LGB manual switch throws, but they were not reurning the points back to their original position consistantly....
Click to expand...

Dan, I find a little bit of copper slip on the blade contacts helps with this?

Not my best picture but it might help explain.

Also a clean out of the point switch and a squirt of WD40 might help....
 
I have been amazed at the reliability of the LGB manual throws when used as spring returns. My turnouts always float on top of the ballast, if yours are fastened down, there may be some binding induced. Otherwise, keeping the underside free of debris and a bit of lubrication (per Giz) should give you great performance.
 
Just to show it can be done, I made this short video on my line,

No electric point motors used on this part of the layout. I preset the points so that the train runs into Sheringham terminus, uncouples, runs round then couples up to the other end of the train.

In this film the loco continues to shunt the train into the head shunt, before fially shunting the train into a kickback siding....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGSD45IraEU
 
Gizzy said:
No electric point motors used on this part of the layout. I preset the points so that the train runs into Sheringham terminus, uncouples, runs round then couples up to the other end of the train.
Click to expand...

Gizzy

Did you have to add any extra weight to the wagons? I find that some derail when propelled through the spring-loaded switch rail - OK when pulled but not happy when pushed.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Gizzy said:
No electric point motors used on this part of the layout. I preset the points so that the train runs into Sheringham terminus, uncouples, runs round then couples up to the other end of the train.
Click to expand...

Gizzy

Did you have to add any extra weight to the wagons? I find that some derail when propelled through the spring-loaded switch rail - OK when pulled but not happy when pushed.

Rik
Click to expand...

Hullo Rik,

I do find that adding weight to some of the lighter wagons, normally by adding a suitable load, is of benefit.

In the film, some of the wagons have real logs, made from cut down branches...
 
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