Rail Clamp Help Please

C

CoggesRailway

Registered
Hello.

So I have been looking at various websites and actually it seems there is a range of options.

I would like to purchase some over joiner and some for use without joiner. I wish to have solid construction (not bothered about appearance) that will positively align rail joints.

I would also like to place an order with a supplier who holds stock and can fulfill relatively quickly.

I know this has been discussed before but I would like supplier recommendations too- so wanted it current.

Ian
 
I use the Massoth ones, without orginal joiners for my points, rest of track is soldered
 
I'd recommend Massoth for the clamps to replace joiners - they are easy to use, reliable, low-profile and fairly unobtrusive (at least on ballasted track) and you should be able to get them at round about a quid per clamp if bought in bulk. Try good old Muns (Garden Rail Outlet) for them, though other alternative suppliers would be Glendale, GRS etc.
For over-joiner clamps you'd have to use another make, as Massoth don't do one as far as I'm aware - probably I'd say Hillman, though others may suggest alternatives. I'd only use over-joiner clamps where you REALLY have to - for most joins you'd be better using the Massoth clamps without the joiners in my opinion.

Just my opinions, and YMMV on everything, of course! ;)

Jon.
 
trust mums.. use mark..
 
I use Hilman over joiner clamps throughout. Bought from Garden Railway Centres in Cheltenham. Helps keep some of my point/crossover formations stable and stops curves on downhill grades being hammered apart by heavy live steam locos. Remember to clean surfaces that will mate to joiners and apply a little LGB graphite paste or similar to ensure long term reliable electrical conductivity when fitting. Would agree go no joiner if you can, a more positive solution than over joiner. Over joiner still works well for me though.
Max.
 
I agree with all of the above regarding Massoth clamps with the proviso that you are using code 332 (LGB section) rail.

Electrical connection to the rail is particularly easy with Massoth clamps.
 
I agree that the clamps work best when the existing joiner is removed and the ends are cleaned (I use my Dremel with a brass wheel).

Massoth are the easiest to fit, but don't hold the rail ends aligned as well as the Hillman or SplitJaw type do. I've got some of each but much prefer the Hillman version. For power connections I originally used SplitJaw, who make special power connector clamps, but have recently used some of the Massoth ones for that purpose.

I got most of my clamps direct from Hillmans. I believe Glendale sell them.
 
I have a selection of different makes and use them in varying situations. The ones I like best are Train-Line. Easy to use, unobtrusive and do exactly what they're supposed to. Split Jaw are also good, but a bit larger. Whereas TrainLiine use normal stainless or brass screws, the split jaw use a sort of Allen Wrench thing. Split Jaw are good where you might need to remove a point or similar.

I have used over joiner clamps (SplitJaw again) but didn't find they were good. I much prefer to remove the old fishplates and just use the joiners.

I have also used AMS, and still have loads around the track, but they're not as good as the others and I guess they gave now been replaced by a new design as I got all mine in a sale!
 
I've used both Hillman and Splitjaw and I think I prefer Splitjaw know, but only just. Which ever brand you select, if the need an allen key to do up (like Hillman & Splitjaw types) then invest in a matching ball end allen key type screw driver. Makes the job sooo much easier.
 
Ian,

What are you running your railway with if you don't mind me asking?

Track power? Battery?

The only reason I ask is that I would caution against the over the rail joiner as a long term solution for track power. They do work, please don't get me wrong and they are often quite handy, but in my experience they don't give as solid an electrical connection as the normal type. They still rely on the existing rail joiner to make the electrical connection inside the clamp so they can suffer from the same problems of oxidisation as you would get with a standard rail joiner. I'm sure some may have had more success than me but I just wanted to share my experience and echo some of the previous comments. I found the best solution was to remove the rail joiner (polishing up the rails at the joint if the track is dirty), then use the LGB conductive paste in the joint and secure firmly with a rail clamp.

As for clamps we use Hillmans but I have also had good experiences with Split Jaws too.
 
I have used varying clamps for over 10 years now and found them to be invaluable.

First they do maintain Current very well. I put track sections on my line even though I am DCC. This allows Fault Finding very quickly. I also put in a Track Feed at the end of each section. Thus should a Clamp Electricals Fail (very very rare) it is easily found by checking each joint with a meter. There are 8 sections on my new line. See my New Line Posts to get a feel for the size of it.

Second they do make all your more secure, being almost impossible to walk off down the Street with a layout even as small as 30ft Square under your arm. This applies to all clamps as a potential thief just does not normally have the time to undo all the screws.

So what types do I use. Initially I used all Hillman. In truth for Peco I do not think that there are many other options. For LGB and others, though I have many Hillman in use. For my new line where I have needed more Track I have used Massoth for the additions. In truth I do prefer these for relative ease of making changes.

I also prefer to use the type where the current fishplate is removed rather than the Over Type. Though I have used quite a few of these outdoors for many years. I do now prefer to only use them indoors and have used up my stock of them in Shed.

JonD
 
Following this with interest..
Not sure about the subtle differences in some of the types, but believe Google will be my friend here..

Is it only Hillman who do a code 250 (Peco) to code 332 (LGB) clamp?
Who does the 'Bridge clamp' with a ?sprung? ball-bearing in it, and does anyone have experience of these please?

I am thinking of a hinged (one end) lift-up bridge section for pedestrian access.. Presume you have flexible bonds at the hinge-end, and the clamp is really just for alignment??
 
OK further question please... if you had two sections or rail (no sleepers) and they were both a foot or so long.... if you joined the pieces would any of these clamps enable a rigid enough joint that you could wave the whole about gently from one end- and the clamp would hold? I suppose odd question but I am interested in the postive mechanical strength of these.

I have some flexi track that i pre bent, but not very well so they have a degree of tension on the joins... would any of these clamps bring these to alignment.

Let me know thoughts.

Ian
 
i have some bent flexi held with with massoth clamps ok

i have just tried waving a couple of lengths held with a clamp, takes fairly violent force to force apart
 
They will tend to align the ends, but you will still have a 'kink' where the two tracks join.. If you have a second pair of hands to help, you can reduce this by pressure on the track, and fastening the end, and a couple further back, sleepers down with track-pins through the sleeper ends. - Well, that is what we have done!
 
PhilP said:
Following this with interest..
Not sure about the subtle differences in some of the types, but believe Google will be my friend here..

Is it only Hillman who do a code 250 (Peco) to code 332 (LGB) clamp?
Who does the 'Bridge clamp' with a ?sprung? ball-bearing in it, and does anyone have experience of these please?

I am thinking of a hinged (one end) lift-up bridge section for pedestrian access.. Presume you have flexible bonds at the hinge-end, and the clamp is really just for alignment??
Click to expand...

Currently only Hillman do 250, however Massoth are listing 250 for the future according to their Webb Site.

Hillman do the Bridge Clamps I believe. However for these to work properly you need to build a Lifting Bridge with an off set Hinge say about 3 inches from end at the opposite end to the Bridge Clamps. The reason for this is that the Rails will catch at the Hinge End when you lift the Bridge. This kind of Bridge is of necessity trickier to build. The Bridge Clamps (yes they do have a Ball Bearing) do work quite well for Electrical Connection. However as always I would recommend Wiring. Also include a Micro Switch on the Bridge to kill power either side of a Public Lifting Bridge for obvious reasons.

JonD
 
Thanks JonD..
I have seen the cranked hinge arrangement.. The 'heads-up' to isolate a length of track approaching each side of the bridge is just the sort of thing for a 'knowledge base' of information..
Especially if sight-lines are interrupted to added interest. - You may not be able to see the bridge from where you are operating.
 
sparky230 said:
i have some bent flexi held with with massoth clamps ok

i have just tried waving a couple of lengths held with a clamp, takes fairly violent force to force apart
Click to expand...

Thanks very much that's very helpful!

Ian
 
CoggesRailway said:
OK further question please... if you had two sections or rail (no sleepers) and they were both a foot or so long.... if you joined the pieces would any of these clamps enable a rigid enough joint that you could wave the whole about gently from one end- and the clamp would hold? I suppose odd question but I am interested in the postive mechanical strength of these.

I have some flexi track that i pre bent, but not very well so they have a degree of tension on the joins... would any of these clamps bring these to alignment.

Let me know thoughts.

Ian
Click to expand...

From my experience Split Jaw will hold them in alignment without sleepers quite well, although as somebody noted it is possible to get a kink at the joint. Whether you could force non alignment or not I don't know - I rather suspect not as well as Hillman.
 
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