Quote: "They seem to be equal to LGB & definitely better than another make that comes via the USA. However I would recommend anyone to "repair" the offending fixings, even if they are working at the present, before laying them." unquote.
Here we have the 'problem' with our railroad engineers/modellers. Many have the opinion that 'as purchased' (ready to run) is how the item is installed. If running around the Christmas tree once a year or the occasional setting up on the kitchen floor is your thing then ready to run is fine as problems take a while to emerge. Outdoors is another ballpark!
Anything installed in a harsh environment requires preparation to meet the conditions anticipated. While a manufacturer who produces a product for both indoors and outdoors has an obligation to ensure the item performs as designed, it is really up to the operator to do his part to ensure reliability. How many blame points/switches for constant derailment when offhandedly they comment, "..well my track work is really not that good." How many complain of badly performing switch machines when they are left submerged in water repeatedly? Another complained of poor reliability from LGB EPL microswitch packs and yet the manufacturer warns that current draw should be less than 3 amps. The operator repeatedly uses high current draw appliances and expects the switchpacks to operate reliably. Any item that is expected to draw high currents, whether, wiring, switchpack contacts or point electrical contacts, need to be up to the task. If the manufacturer has not built to your required specs then you need to make alterations to suit your requirements. Heavier feeder cables may be required on the underside of switches and if required, the entire underside should be 'coated' to make waterproof.
"Outdoor' railway items are relatively inexpensive these days and yet we expect them to perform at peak performance without failure. Surely it is up to us to take some care/preparation prior to installation. If the underside is prone to contact with the ground then a coating of grease or sealant is perhaps not a bad idea. Similarly, a check tighten of electrical contact mount screws is also in order.
A member made reference to a particular manufacturer in the States. I use over forty of his wideradius switches and several of his #6 switches. With respect to the environment, I chose stainless steel rail and elevated the track off the ground. Every switch did require about 30 minutes preparation prior installation, but, to date, no switrches have failed after seven years outdoors. Several switch machines have failed (LGB) but this was due to ants building nests in them and not in any way related to poor design/construction. A quick clean out and they were back in service.
Strange that you would not put an unpainted steel panel on a car and yet would place exposed/unprotected metals on the underside of a switch directly in contact with the ground. Outdoor railroading is 'engineering' not simply modelling.