I'm considering getting some Piko Code 332 points but would first like to hear of anyones experiences using them. Good, bad, indifferent? Please do tell!
Happy steamings,
John
Happy steamings,
John
Piko points: opinions wanted
- Thread starter Sea Lion
- Start date
Indoors fine. Outdoors several GSCers have had major problems with the R3 points. Although I gave a favourable review when they were first introduced, due to the problems and poor customer service from Piko in response to complaints about the points, I cannot now recommend them.Sea Lion said:
Is the railway electrified John? There have been problems with electrical contacts, but not such an issue if you're only running live steam and/or battery.
Sorry I should have said, I'm considering stocking them at Track-Shack to go with the Accucraft (AMS) Code 332 track untill we get the AMS points in. I guess there may be a 50/50 split on people using Code 332 for live steam or electric traction?
Can anyone expand on the electric contact problems outdoors, and are there any other issues?
Happy steamings,
John
Can anyone expand on the electric contact problems outdoors, and are there any other issues?
Happy steamings,
John
More info on the problems here John -
http://www.gscalecentral.net/m137307
It would appear that, if you're selling them to people who use track power, you may get some returns?
I seem to remember that there was a thought that this may have been a bad batch, but unfortunately Piko did not see fit to respond to several different people's emails, which was VERY disappointing to say the least.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/m137307
It would appear that, if you're selling them to people who use track power, you may get some returns?
I seem to remember that there was a thought that this may have been a bad batch, but unfortunately Piko did not see fit to respond to several different people's emails, which was VERY disappointing to say the least.
They survive three months out doors and then something underneath corrodes and you lose electrical continuity accross them I haven't bothered to fix mine as they control entrance to a small siding and now I have battery locos I don't need track power in all sidings. From a look and robustness point of view they're fine if you are live steam/battery
John,Sea Lion said:
if you were to stock Piko points, would you then be a Piko agent?
If so, would you have an input to be able to give feedback to them?
I haven't brought any of their points as yet, but I am interested in the Double Slip that they propose to manufacture to use on an indoor DCC layout one day.
Their Y point is something I may consider for outside too, so I'd like reassurance that any quality issues have been resolved before I'd commit to purchasing these items....
Gizzy said:
Good point Gizzy. From my point of view I'd rather arrange a source of good points from another supplier than have to become a dealer for an outfit that makes problematic ones and then keep giving feedback in the hope they might one day improve. The only thing that interests me to become a Piko dealer in the first place is Code 332 points, and if the points are no good................
Might be some mileage in having them for outdoor steam/battery use only.
Happy steamings,
John
Talking with a hushed wisper as i seem to be alone but i have 3 Piko points bought sec hand with a collection and while they are not as good as my GRS ones (but not the same money)they are better than my LGB ones that i have had to replace the check rail on sorry but ive not had any problems with mine
Tony
Tony
I don't have any problems (yet?) with my Piko points but, then again, my locos don't draw a lot of amps!
Wouldn't it be a good idea to talk to the UK importer to see if Piko had rectified the problems?
Wouldn't it be a good idea to talk to the UK importer to see if Piko had rectified the problems?
I bought 3 about 3 years ago that all failed electrically after 6 months outside. The problem was that the screws that fix the the wires to the rails corroded and also were to long to hold the solder tags down to make a decent electrical contact. I presumed that the original design was OK and that at some time they had run out of the design screws and substituted some rubbish ones they had in stock. I found it was easier to fix the problem than return the points to the supplier. However the quality control at Piko is not up to the job. Of course if everyone has fixed the problems rather than returning faulty goods then Piko aren't going to do much to sort this out. Some members have emailed Piko, but to no effect, which is a pity because basically the mechanical construction is good. The ones I bought just failed because of rubbish screws making the electrical contacts.
Peter
Peter
Has anyone had any OTHER problems with them aside from the poor electrical contact at the above-mentioned screws? I know that it's not really good enough, and they should be properly assembled in the first place - but I just wondered whether, if I bought some, I should simply replace the offending screws/connections immediately before putting the points out? While at the moment I will continue to use my current mix of LGB and Trainline points, there are some interesting configurations coming from Piko (especially the promised Y-point) that I could make use of in the future.
Jon.
Jon.
Good point Mick, I have already e-mailed the UK importer this morning and await a reply.trammayo said:
Happy steamings,
John
Once the offending electrical problems are sorted they seem to be OK. They seem to be equal to LGB & definitely better than another make that comes via the USA. However I would recommend anyone to "repair" the offending fixings, even if they are working at the present, before laying them.Zerogee said:
They should never have left the works with the poor connectors.
Asking a small favour....
Could anyone who has one of these points to hand possibly post a quick pic of the underside, showing exactly which screws/terminals are the troublesome ones that fail and need replacing?
Thanks in advance!
Jon.
Could anyone who has one of these points to hand possibly post a quick pic of the underside, showing exactly which screws/terminals are the troublesome ones that fail and need replacing?
Thanks in advance!
Jon.
