Piko points: opinions wanted

Tim Brien

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Keith,
I use over forty Aristo wide radius points, plus several #6's. Fortunately, they were not the first version as this suffered from the wiring being too light a gauge and inevitable meltdown. The geometry though was pathetic. I advised the manufacturer that this scale was an engineering exercise and not a toy market and was bitterly disappointed with the product. I chose the brand as I wanted stainless rail and Aristo was readily available.

Every point required extensive reprofiling to enable smooth passage without jostling or derailing. The end result was worth the input. Many complained of the product and suprisingly some even said that they were happy with the standard performance. The latest version is far supperior to the version I purchased many years ago and incorporates some of my suggested modifications, although the manufacturer did not incorporate all my suggestions. At manufacturer request I shipped one of my modified points to the company for evaluation. Later a revised frog moulding was released as a replacement item and incorporated on future production.

The mods I incorporated have given me years of troublefree operation from what was once an inferior product. I could have simply put up with the poor performance, but chose to make the product better since, of my forty plus points, at least eight are on the mainline circuit using the divergent path. I am more than happy with the result. My railroad is elevated 24 inches, so any derailment would be catastrophic.

Manufacturers are extremely slow to respond to customer issues/problems. In Aristo's case there was at least five years of issues raised before implementation of basic changes to make the product better. In the meantime, I would rather correct the issue raised with additional drop feeders to bypass the offending wiring. I always install additional drop feeders to minimise power drop. Of cause the manufacturer should have engineered the product to a higher standard, but until then, customer modification is the only alternative. Look to the LGB R3 point design. It has been out for many years and yet the guardrail design is still defective. Marklin are definately not going to retool the tie base to change the guardrail design, so aftermarket mods are the only alternative.

I recently purchased two LGB R1 nickel plated points (2005/2006 production) to match my stainless steel rail. I have not used an R1 point for nearly 25 years and was extremely impressed with the quality of the item. It seemed far superior to my few R1's from the 1980's. The substantial electrical busbar design plus the long guard checkrails are excellent. Eventually manufacturers respond to consumer issues, but I am not prepared to await that possibility. I would rather modify and enjoy the item now than await a better product.

Regardless of manufacturer liabilities and legal responsibilities, the product is on my railroad and any mods that I make to make the product perform better are to my advantage. I personally am not a fan of the Piko product line but I do expect that the manufacturer will make improvements over time. I believe that all Piko products have a two year warranty, although it would be hard to prove that the offending wiring occurred in a 'normal' set of circumstances. I feel the manufacturer would state the warranty was voided through misuse, irrespective of the actual circumstances.
 

Tim Brien

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Mike,
Quote: "why? i ve got a band new car.. do i need to get it serviced 1st? no.. so why points?
i have a brand new loco, do i need to service it 1st?? no..." end quote.

Maybe you will remember the LGB #23892 second generation Sumpter Valley Mallett from circa 2004/2005 German production. It seems that either by omissionn or health and safety requirements, the locomotive was delivered totally devoid of lubrication. At the same time, Chinese made Forneys were also similarly delivered with no lube. Of cause, one could simply run the offending item into the ground and destroy it, or like me, one could inspect each new locomotive and ensure that it was properly serviced prior initial running. Bachmann actually go to great lengths, even supplying a video/DVD showing how to lubricate their product and insisting that the lube must be carried out before initial usage. This warning is repeated several times on video and in the printed literature supplied with the product.

I see my purchases as long term 'investments' and the few minutes checking the state of lubrication is a small price to pay in the long run. If, like on Aristo locomotives, the item is supplied with lifetime sealed gearboxes from the factory, then the only servicing required is a little oil on axles and moving parts. We each have our own preferences as to what is required. I prefer to ensure the item is correctly serviced before usage and not rely on a bored production line assembly worker to do it for me.
 

Rhinochugger

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I bet John (Sea Lion) didn't expect all this when he asked a simple question :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Which for five pages has stayed on topic :-
 

ntpntpntp

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Well, this afternoon AndyGBRF and I examined a Piko R5 (LGB R3) point recently bought new by DoverLes. Under the protective plate the wiring was nicely routed and all the screws suitably tightened, so no obvious loose connection or insulation problems there.

However, noticable already was a slight sign of oxidation/corrosion of most of the (steel?) screws used throughout the point, after only a very short time out doors. This was showing as light grey deposits around holes visible in the web of the rail section where the screws locate. None of the screws appeared to be too long as clear space could be seen in the pre-drilled holes. On the other hand, we noticed that steel nuts had been used as spacer washers on some of the screws securing the frog wiring (those NOT passing through plastic but screwed direct to the brass rail), and these were already showing signs of brown rust.

Conclusion has to be that Piko haven't used screws & spacers of suitable material for prolonged outdoor use. This is disappointing. We will be going in search of suitable replacement screws, as apart from that the actual mechanical construction of the points seems good.
 

Sea Lion

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Rhinochugger said:
I bet John (Sea Lion) didn't expect all this when he asked a simple question :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Which for five pages has stayed on topic :-
I think it proves the point (pun not intended) that choosing the best type is not a simple question.

It should to be a simple question, we should be able to just go and purchase something at a reasonable price that does the job. It's so basic a requirement, words fail me........

I'm not sure I'm convinced of any 'best' solution. Unless someone can spell it out, a supply of Code 332 R3 points that are readily available, do the job, and a reasonable price?

Happy steamings,

John
 

minimans

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Time for my 2cents worth...........I've had LGB points in use for over 26 years now, some with the original point motors, when I run LGB trains I have no problems except for one point which derailed everything because of the short check rail, was it LGB's fault that I was using it up a grade with a twist ? no it was my fault for not having it leveled correctly in the first place! but the longer check rail modification fixed it for me, some times my gauge one stuff doesn't like my LGB points as well as the odd US outline visitors Loco but is that LGB's fault? The point I'm trying to make is that not all our ''G'' scale trains are designed to fit or work on all the different manufacturers track so as long as I don't spend all my time re-railing stock I'm happy if they go round and round!
 

Spule 4

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While they are probably the most used worldwide 332 points, there have been some problems with the LGB R3/1600s, which use bus-bars from behind which can come un-bonded. I had several R3s at one time (paid $50 each), but sold them all on great LGB bankruptcy panic on eBay back in 2007 (at over $220 each, do the math, it was a no brainer and a FAST four-digit money maker:rofl: ) and would not hesitate to buy some again, even with this known technical problem...and probably sell the point motors on for further recoup of funds? There are some other issues that some have with the LGB points (they are designed for LGB stock and wheels, so other makes can have problems as Minimans stated above) and some of the fixes (shims, electrical, point motors) can be found on George's site:
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/lgb_1600.html

I have some TrainLine45 R2 (I would kill for these from LGB) points which are a very nice switch, but there is one slight fault that I am not 100% happy with, there is no insulation on the backs of the opposing point rails, which results in a slight "short" on the back of each metal wheel (old pre 1980 LGB deep flange stock and BB wheel stuff seem to be the worst). My thought is to take them and add some plastic shims to the backs of the rails to serve as insulators, but have not got "aroundtoit" yet.

The Piko ones are of interest and use the same rail supplier as LGB, but the electrical contact problem from the start seems to be an issue, but one that can be addressed. Yes, unfortunate that Piko have not issued a reply yet... What is funny is the published in GR here in the States fix to the LGB 1600/R3 points is the same method Piko use for their switches. Moi? I might actually go for thier three way and wye if they are ever released....and fix them before installation if Piko do not do it before then.

While having some Aristo track, I do not have any of their switches. Some comments here about assorted issues and fixes (and a comment by George that mass produced switches should not be expected to work without some tweaks)
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips2/aristo_turnout_tips.html

My point (ok, bad pun), is while some are better than others, each can have a fault from failing three months on to failing three decades, a quirk out of the box or a reported silence from a maker to customer complaints...in the end it is up to each of us to have the final say when we lay out our Euros, Dollars, Pounds, Turkish Lira, etc....
 

peterexmouth

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Nicks post 0f 25/09 notes that steel spacer washers had been used by the Piko or distributors to pack out fixings on the Piko point. This must be a subsequent batch to the ones I bought, noted in a previous post, which failed because the screws were to long and made of a metal which corroded with the brass rail. Because the screws are to long the solder tags were not held tightly to the rails causing overheating at the joint or open circuits. The mixed metal of screw and brass rail caused corrosion outdoors in damp conditions. It looks as though someone at Piko or distributors is trying an inadequate fix to hold the solder tags tightly to the rail. We haven't heard of any complaints from Germany about these points ( or have we ) so perhaps the original batch had screws of the correct length made of metal that didn't corrode so quickly with brass. The points are failing due to assembly with inadequate screws which is sad because they are fundamentally mechanically sound.

Peter
 

Rhinochugger

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Sea Lion said:
Rhinochugger said:
I bet John (Sea Lion) didn't expect all this when he asked a simple question :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Which for five pages has stayed on topic :-
I think it proves the point (pun not intended) that choosing the best type is not a simple question.

It should to be a simple question, we should be able to just go and purchase something at a reasonable price that does the job. It's so basic a requirement, words fail me........

I'm not sure I'm convinced of any 'best' solution. Unless someone can spell it out, a supply of Code 332 R3 points that are readily available, do the job, and a reasonable price?

Happy steamings,

John

Has anyone got experience of the Accucraft point? or is it Code 250?

:thinking::thinking:
 

Spule 4

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Rhinochugger said:
Sea Lion said:
Rhinochugger said:
I bet John (Sea Lion) didn't expect all this when he asked a simple question :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Which for five pages has stayed on topic :-
I think it proves the point (pun not intended) that choosing the best type is not a simple question.

It should to be a simple question, we should be able to just go and purchase something at a reasonable price that does the job. It's so basic a requirement, words fail me........

I'm not sure I'm convinced of any 'best' solution. Unless someone can spell it out, a supply of Code 332 R3 points that are readily available, do the job, and a reasonable price?

Happy steamings,

John

Has anyone got experience of the Accucraft point? or is it Code 250?

:thinking::thinking:
If it is like the Accucraft/AMS track I have....8|
 

Sea Lion

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Rhinochugger said:
Has anyone got experience of the Accucraft point? or is it Code 250?
:thinking::thinking:

I have used the Accucraft Code 250 points on a club layout and they did what it says on the tin, just laid them, electrified them, and ran over them with steam and electric locos. I should say this is indoors.

The Accucraft Code 332 points aren't out yet. they were advised for '2011' about a year ago but I'm having difficulty getting any more updates on production, hence the look around at alternatives. To be honest looking at the discussion it appears there is no one make that can be whole heartedly recommended?

Sad really, this such a basic requirement.

Happy steamings,

John
 

p.williams

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the steel (possibly aluminium?) connecting wires might possibly be the problem.
as an ex-mechanic, i often came across 'jump leads' at the cheaper end of the market. these had aluminium instead of copper wires. during use, the wires heated up. as they did so, the electrical resistance increased causing further heating until the cables literaly fell apart. could this be a contributory factor ?
 

chris m01

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Having read this lot I wouldn't touch Piko points. One wonders whether their advertising is legal as they claim that their points are superior.

My standard is set up Aristo wide points powered by LGB motors. This arrangement gives me no derails and no maintenance issues. Due to the usual derailing problem I am slowly replacing my small number of LGB R3s with Aristo points.
 

mike

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:-
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1f9a81fa89b54976ad3e8d2f943e395c.jpg
 

chris m01

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You just shouldn't have to do that to a new (or even not very old) point. LGB are the best value points at the moment but not so good if you run stock from American manufacturers.
 

KeithT

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It is possible that the wires are aluminium although I thought they were galvanised steel/iron, I didn't examine them closely but if it is the case then it further increases the problem by having 3 different metals with widely differing electrochemical equivalents which increases the corrosion effects.
 

Zerogee

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Well, I've just bought 6 brand-new (as in boxed/sealed/unused, I don't know when they were actually made) Piko R5 points, from a fellow forum member - got them at a very fair price, well under RRP, so I'm more than happy with the deal.
So, should I take the cover plates off the wiring of each one and check them over before putting them into service? Or should I leave them as-is and hope for the best? If I do open them up to check, am I just looking for all screws and connections being tight and secure? Is it worth going as far as replacing the screws and wires with better materials simply as pre-emptive insurance?

Jon.
 

mike

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jon, remove the base plates, and check, and id would remove the fishplates and fit railclamps for easy removale later on, IF, you suffer problems..
 

Zerogee

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Thanks Mike - yes, they will all be fitted with clamps and the joiners removed. I'll probably just open a couple up to start with and see how they look, and if they appear the same as those already pictured on this thread - then go from there...

Jon.

"Have you got the Clamps?" "No, it's just the way my trousers hang....."
(With apologies to the late great Eric'n'Ern!)