Ozark miniatures 12' Bobber Caboose kit build

[maxi-model]

Let's start at the beginning. Around 15 years ago Andrew Steele, of the now sadly defuct Garden Railway Centre outside Cheltenham, offered me a cartoon like "mini" caboose. I reckoned he wanted it off his stock list, very nice price, but I still said no. It didn't fit my supposed "no freelance" ethos. Roll forward to 5 years ago, I now have a diminuative Porter as part of the "West Well Lumber Co." roster, and a few wagons and disconnects for it to do some switching around the yard, all link and pin couplers rather than the standard knuckle type the railroad used, up till then. Some locos now have both types fitted. Got a natty match wagon, just in case, too. So, I'm thinking, well, we need a lil' caboose if we send the Porter upcountry with it's natty range extending tender. It then occurs to me perhaps I should have bought that kit off Andrew. End up getting self same direct from Ozark Miniatures, full price + shipping and UK customs duty @ 20%. Doh ! It sat unbuilt till now. The acquisition of another little diminiative loco, a 2-6-0 Mogul with a tender, arrives and the workshop goes into full swing getting the 2 locos converted battery/rc operation and given a voice. Hmm, better get that lil' bobber together. A quick and dirty build, nothing special. Oh dear, the workshop staff have got a little carried away. So here goes....

The Mogul The Porter and Tender Lil' Caboose kit, laid out

So work starts. The assembly instructions, shall we say, lack some of the finer and clearer details needed. This creates one or two hiccups. West Well's works staff have outshopped a quite few woodies over the years and are quite experienced with white metalwork too. And a few other materials. Though we never claim to be perfect.Also the maker's foundry appear to be using some very tired old molds, requiring a lot of time consuming fettling of metal. There are one or two errors found in the timber supplied too, needing fixing. Like the underframe being slightly out at one end, needing packing, otherwise the steps won't fit that end. Then there's the roof truss's execution that results in the roof line is a little bit higher than it should be. That requires an even more, undercut, curved fettling of the metal window frames that fit to the cupola bit to clear it. Glazing for windows is cut to fit and the doors are rigged to work. Oh, dear those coupler pockets are way too high, need to have a word with sub contractor Trenarren for a fix. This is taking a long time for what appeared a simple set of parts. Well, I got this far. In for a penny in for a pound. I also think, it needs a bit more functionality and "Why just a plain old bauxite paint job ?" If the D&RGW can have a fancy bobber so can we. So we decide to pattern ours after that green one that has appeared in the workshop. Using a mix of Titebond III and CA for the wood, good old screws and nuts and a bit of soldering on the metal, by the way.

Erection work starts Roofing goes on Trial fit of the ancillaries

Now let's get down to the nitty gritty. A set of extra roof mount ladders and duck(ling) walks need to be fabricated. And all those supplied handrails and grabs. A bit of hacking around of the end rails is required to do the ladders. A rudimentary jig is produced to "weld" it all up reasonably staight. Metal cut is, "torch" is lit and off we go. The brake wheel needs fitting on the other side, one end for that only. 1 end down, 1 to go. A new mount for a deeper multi hight coupler is fabricated and the supplied coupler is modified to provide the more positive location this set up has nessesitated. Next the axle boxes and those 31mm (!) diameter wheelsets. I might have to find smaller, 24 mm. Ok, full size images from now on. The others have been on here in some form or other before. Just click those to enlarge.

Jig for ladders, just some pins push fit into MDF. How the railings start on the right. What's left in the middle and the jig with 1.5mm brass rod, nice and shiny, pinned and ready for low temp white metal soldering with donated bits from kit's railings. On the left the finished article.


End railings tested for fit. Top restraint to be fabricated. Note that multi height coupler has replaced the one supplied and fitted. See that roof line ? Yes window frames needed to be made to fit it. Bit of filling of gaps between valences and roof end.


Last little bit for now. The coupler its additional slotted head screws mounts, to go with the hidden center mount bolt and extended mount block. Supplied coupler for comparison. Might have worked with the rest of the Ozark 12' waggon range, but not with Accucrsft/AMS's ragne of link and pin coupled wagons and disconnects. Certainly not with supplied 31mm dia' wheel sets. Might get some wood sealer and paint on soon.

 

[Paul M]

Wow!

 

[Fred2179G]

I recognized that - photo says 2020 so that's when I finished it. It's made both as options. neat little kit. With 2 roofs/rooves I fixed up the second so I could run it without the cupola.

 

[maxi-model]

And a little bit more. The important little bit, the flap journals and wheel sets. Its feet. Assembly, alignment and fitting. The journals are all white metal, supplied as 4 pieces to complete each flap journal - Front and back plate, sliding axle bearing, oil flap and spring. First the usual removal of some excess material from the casting process. These were much better than the other supplied bits. Then a good going over with wire wool as prep' for low temp' white metal soldering. I used Slater's "Barry Stevenson Formula" flux, whatever.

1st pic from left - I clip the prep'ed units together (amazing what heat these plastic clips can handle) with a wood baulk inserted to keep journal clear of bottom soldering area. Then have at it with carefully applied flux, heat and solder......and a bit more flux Top and bottom of each unit.
2nd pic - Completed soldered units and a couple of other bits done at the same time, chimney and marker lamps. Note bolt detail on journals. These help "trap" units between inner and outer chassis beams, see next pic.

Not happy of idea of glueing journals to caboose frame. I want a more secure mount. So.....
3rd pic - Note the caboose body is "draped" over frame, I realise I can create hidden positive mount. I mark up and drill a hole through outer beam big enough to get round head self tapper through to the journal which will be the secured direct to the inner beam. Journal, with its raised bolt detail, is a snug fit between the inner and out frame beams. Journals have pronounced shoulders to be supported by beam. Here wheel sets are mounted. You fit one side pair of journals, screw in place, marked up for require w/b. Then fit wheel sets and and screw in journals other side. Making sure axles are aligned parallel before securing latter with screws.
4th pic - Journal drilled for screw to pass through, same dia' as self tapper screw thread.
5th pic - Mark up and match position on journal and drill hole same size as screw head in caboose outer frame side. Then final journal alignment and insert and tighten screw.
6th pic - Drop caboose body over, job done to hide the screw holes. Journals can be removed for painting.

Well that was 3.5 hours work. Next, all the grab handle need to be made up and the duckwalks too. This is getting to be a lot of work for a little caboose. I would really like a smaller diameter wheelset, say 20 mm not 31mm. I can afford to go 5 mm closer to rail head. Spec' : 3mm journals, 75 mm total axle length. Any suggestion for supply source ?

 

[maxi-model]

While I'm here this morning, a quick update. I realised this caboose needs some interior creature comforts. More work ! Scratch head, let's see, oh ! Had some seats going spare from when I did that Rio Grande UK Pagosa caboose convertion 6 years ago (using an AMS 1:20.3 J&S car as base). Nothing like a bit of recycling, I bet the real life lumber co's did it too. So, possibly even prototypical then ? Quick trip up to the loft to find the box, more head scratching, ah, there it is. And, for some reason, the bobber kit came with a spare chimney assembly too. To start - First, take 8mm off the J&S seat width, so they fit either sides of the doors, 3 of (I have more). Glue back together. In the other corner a stove, a used a blood sugar test strip container (!), then, use the adapted chimney kit for its stove pipe and firebox door. Line up with chimney ! Now just got to work out how is anybody is going to get up to look out of the cupola ? Sometimes I'm just so pleased with myself (pride, fall, before, etc' ) Oh, and those are some nice curved grab handles in the picture, formed from 2mm brass rod in kit, now on the caboose's sides. They double up as latches to hold the removable car body onto its chassis frame. All clever stuff Max

Yet another "artfully" posed shot. Finished interior articles and their origins. And coffee, lots of coffee and distraction, Le Mans 24 hrs race

 

[maxi-model]

Bit of a mixed bag here. 20 mm wheels arrived. I now have a "low rider" bobber ! I rather like the way it now gets the "cartoon" bit a little more under control. The supplied IP insulated wheels' 1/8th" axles were a bit short so I had to tap out the old and tap in a new pair cut from 1/8" brass rod that I had never had a use for before, handy. The kit's journals' bearing diameters were all over the place, so I "reamed" them with a 3.2 mm hs bit in a large pin vice. Bought a set of bits the go from 1mm - 6mm in 0.1 mm increments a while ago, replaces a lot of blunt old bits. Wheels' back to backs match as supplied and axles run true and free with just the right tolerances. Chassis rides high enough to give the clearances to do the next bit.

I keep on finding details I want to add to this kit. Can't think why ? Now it's the underbody 4 split truss rods and their required queen posts, turnbuckles and end securing nuts. It's partly hdden detail under the caboose frame, but its on all my other Fn3 cabooses, so must be done. I have some 1.5mm dia brass to hand for the rods. Just need to crank them to pass behind the axles. The "turnbuckles" are just some spare copper tube with the right ID. These trusses are kept in place at the ends with some UK style loco boiler handrail posts. Then just add dumy nut/bolt/backing plate detail (supplied in the kit) to match their position on the outer face of the end timbers. Queen posts ? Same hand rail posts. But this time cut the top off the post and you have yourself a "queen post" that supports those trusses as they pass over the caboose's 2 cross mounted timber baulks. All these bits will be soldered in place and painted in situ with the caboose base frame. Note - one pic to come, finished truss rod installation.

Layout of part installed truss rod assembly. Not the cut down "queen posts" compared to the originals. 20 mm wheels are now on.


Low rider ! Compare with pic #6 in post 4. Perhaps not so obvious from this angle ?

Evrybody sing along now. Low Rider..........

 

[maxi-model]

Still getting carried away in the detailing dept'. Took a look at my Hartford kit built Hobart Estates caboose. It has interior framing. Remember putting that lot together, like a Chinese puzzle. All beautifuly milled and slotted wooden strips that locked together to produce a perfect and important part of a car's interior detail. I wondered if I could try to do something similar that was passable in my lil' bobber. Well, I have a habit of keeping the frets from old laser cut wood kits (sad, I know). All neatly clipped to provide a compact clutch wood strip to store (even a little bit OCD ?). Selected what was needed out of my stash, estimated to be enough, and set to work. I do love my Zona razor saw and mitre block set. Trim each bit to size and glue in place with some Titebond. Lots of use of olde Eglish measures for adjustment - tinch and smidge, or metric smurge. Once it's all painted it should all blend in. I'll then make sure the doors have the matching panel detail, that is missing on their reverse. I've got some veneer left over from another kit to do that. Waste nothing ! One has to make sure the car's body will still sit unobstructed and level on its frame, hence the body's framing is not aligned to body's lowest point but at that of the fitted doors' lower sills. Now, how do I get an access up into the cupola ? Max

Hartford caboose for inspiration. Absolute gem of a kit. Click to enlarge.

2 shots, just a couple of bits of framing to go in and the door's surface to do. Once some paint is on it should "even" it all out. We'll see.

 

[dunnyrail]

Still getting carried away in the detailing dept'. Took a look at my Hartford kit built Hobart Estates caboose. It has interior framing. Remember putting that lot together, like a Chinese puzzle. All beautifuly milled and slotted wooden strips that locked together to produce a perfect and important part of a car's interior detail. I wondered if I could try to do something similar that was passable in my lil' bobber. Well, I have a habit of keeping the frets from old laser cut wood kits (sad, I know). All neatly clipped to provide a compact clutch wood strip to store (even a little bit OCD ?). Selected what was needed out of my stash, estimated to be enough, and set to work. I do love my Zona razor saw and mitre block set. Trim each bit to size and glue in place with some Titebond. Lots of use of olde Eglish measures for adjustment - tinch and smidge, or metric smurge. Once it's all painted it should all blend in. I'll then make sure the doors have the matching panel detail, that is missing on their reverse. I've got some veneer left over from another kit to do that. Waste nothing ! One has to make sure the car's body will still sit unobstructed and level on its frame, hence the body's framing is not aligned to body's lowest point but at that of the fitted doors' lower sills. Now, how do I get an access up into the cupola ? Max

View attachment 357955View attachment 357950View attachment 357951View attachment 357952 Hartford caboose for inspiration. Absolute gem of a kit. Click to enlarge.

2 shots, just a couple of bits of framing to go in and the door's surface to do. Once some paint is on it should "even" it all out. We'll see.
View attachment 357953
View attachment 357954

Lovely job Max, be a shame to paint it. How about a little very thin down weathering inside, so thin it barely changes the colour of the natural wood?

 

[maxi-model]

Lovely job Max, be a shame to paint it. How about a little very thin down weathering inside, so thin it barely changes the colour of the natural wood?

Thank you Jon. The problem is the strips are made up of a mixed of 3 layer ply, solid wood in 2 tints and a veneer for the doors in another and the base panels and burnt endgrain on the lasercut roof beams. All a bit of a midsh mash. Anyhow, typically the interiors of US cabooses, combine's non passenger area and loco cabs, were/are actually painted a light green colour. Why I am not quite sure, AI assistant mentions something about visibility and the calming nature of the colour. US train engineers were also quite keen on aromatherapy and crystals too. Ok, I made the last bit up but not about the reason for the colour. Thanks again Jon but it's going green. Max

 

[dunnyrail]

Thank you Jon. The problem is the strips are made up of a mixed of 3 layer ply, solid wood in 2 tints and a veneer for the doors in another and the base panels and burnt endgrain on the lasercut roof beams. All a bit of a midsh mash. Anyhow, typically the interiors of US cabooses, combine's non passenger area and loco cabs, were/are actually painted a light green colour. Why I am not quite sure, AI assistant mentions something about visibility and the calming nature of the colour. US train engineers were also quite keen on aromatherapy and crystals too. Ok, I made the last bit up but not about the reason for the colour. Thanks again Jon but it's going green. Max

I think the green may be to help suck out light for when they are snoozing, my kitchen has an almost imperceptible light green in a place that gets no natural daylight and it is a dull forbidding colour. Has been in my mind to repaint white for years but the round to it not kicked in as yet!

 

[maxi-model]

I think the green may be to help suck out light for when they are snoozing, my kitchen has an almost imperceptible light green in a place that gets no natural daylight and it is a dull forbidding colour. Has been in my mind to repaint white for years but the round to it not kicked in as yet!

My floor to ceiling kitchen units are a nice shade of sage green, with matching lamp shades. Likewise my original "upstairs" living room, now a bedroom, and that has dark green carpets too ! Big scenic Scalextric layout in downstairs "shop area" dismantled 20 years ago and rump of model car collection, bulk sold for garden railway funds, moved next door. All quite relaxing Max.