brianthesnail96
Registered
Absolutely spot on Sir. Like it more and more with every bit of progress!
Modifying a LGB Frank S into a tank (creating a Franco Belge KDL11 look alike!)
- Thread starter jameshilton
- Start date
jameshilton
Registered
I've had a busy weekend with a party and building my daughters birthday present (a play house in the garden) but this afternoon I applied the transfer backed rivets. My word I was pleased they were evenly spaced on the bunker - I've have gone crazy trying to line that many up by eye. The side tanks aren't perfect as I had to cut them into individual transfers, but they look good in my opinion and lift the model again. I can't wait to get a coat of primer on tomorrow.
Question for tonight though - should I mask off and retain the gold coloured boiler bands of the original finish, or cover it all in black as per the real engines?
Question for tonight though - should I mask off and retain the gold coloured boiler bands of the original finish, or cover it all in black as per the real engines?
nicebutdim
Registered
Can't wait to see with some paint on, really looking forward to it! I'd keep the gold boiler bands, although it may look a little odd with the larger tanks. Hmmmm.....
.
jameshilton
Registered
Hmm thanks chaps - yes I was thinking visual relief, and also had the 399.xx in mind in some small way too... Hmmm... more thinking before I paint the primer.
What about a cream interior to the cab? Did Austrian engines have a cream cab? It's hard to tell in b+w photos
What about a cream interior to the cab? Did Austrian engines have a cream cab? It's hard to tell in b+w photos
brianthesnail96
Registered
I say lose the bands- but then, I would! Rivets look good, like Mel I'm waiting to see them in primer.
garrymartin
My Family,Railways, Beer and the Seaside
Brass or brass effect boiler bands make any model look toy like in my opinion. They should go!
PaulRhB
This Way Up
I'd vote for black too, I do it on any of the gold plated pipework and detail bits on the boilers and it looks much more realistic to me. I suppose you could leave it in the ultra shiny gold finish if you put some subtle white weathering either side to represent brasso that hasn't been cleaned off properly 
jameshilton
Registered
Well that makes my life easy! No difficult masking required now!
There will be some relief to the all over black - red details here and there, the white transfers, works plate... but I am currently wondering about doing the inside of the cab a dark cream colour to give a bit of relief to the all over black. Some Austrian locomotives seem to have a cream cab interior from photographs but it's hard to definitely tell as often the cab interior is in deep shadow. Can anyone confirm either way?
I also have confirmation from Steve at http://www.narrowplanet.co.uk < Link To www.narrowplanet.co.uk that my custom Henschel works plates are ready to be etched this week so they should be ready in about a fortnight! They're going to go on the cabside, roughly where they are on the Frank S cab.
The custom EJ&KLR decals include the water/coal/weight stuff for the bunker, the shed and servicing depot and of course the number and road name. I noticed on the OBB 699.1xxs a variety of typeface sizes for the 'OBB' so I've done one in both standard and a reduced size to see what they look like. The last decision really is whether to mount the front number on it's own little 'plate' or direct to the smokebox door. Examples exist of both on the 699.1xxs, so what do people think would look better... I think the plate mounted myself.
I'll make a decision tomorrow, and then fabricate a plate if necessary before spraying the primer coats. Thanks all for the help, feedback and encouragement
There will be some relief to the all over black - red details here and there, the white transfers, works plate... but I am currently wondering about doing the inside of the cab a dark cream colour to give a bit of relief to the all over black. Some Austrian locomotives seem to have a cream cab interior from photographs but it's hard to definitely tell as often the cab interior is in deep shadow. Can anyone confirm either way?
I also have confirmation from Steve at http://www.narrowplanet.co.uk < Link To www.narrowplanet.co.uk that my custom Henschel works plates are ready to be etched this week so they should be ready in about a fortnight! They're going to go on the cabside, roughly where they are on the Frank S cab.
The custom EJ&KLR decals include the water/coal/weight stuff for the bunker, the shed and servicing depot and of course the number and road name. I noticed on the OBB 699.1xxs a variety of typeface sizes for the 'OBB' so I've done one in both standard and a reduced size to see what they look like. The last decision really is whether to mount the front number on it's own little 'plate' or direct to the smokebox door. Examples exist of both on the 699.1xxs, so what do people think would look better... I think the plate mounted myself.
I'll make a decision tomorrow, and then fabricate a plate if necessary before spraying the primer coats. Thanks all for the help, feedback and encouragement
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Rivets look really good, James, were the ones in strips easy to apply? I think I'd be most afraid of the strip curling or kinking while I tried to get it off the backing and onto the loco!
Also, didn't you mention in an earlier post that you were going to apply the rivet strips OVER the first primer coat rather than directly onto the plasticard? Or when you got them, did the instructions contradict that? Very interested in more details, because I can see lots of uses for them.....
Jon.
Also, didn't you mention in an earlier post that you were going to apply the rivet strips OVER the first primer coat rather than directly onto the plasticard? Or when you got them, did the instructions contradict that? Very interested in more details, because I can see lots of uses for them.....
Jon.
jameshilton
Registered
Jon - I applied a mist coat of gloss varnish over the unpainted plasticard which I thought would improve adhesion over a matt primer finish.
The transfers were quite easy to slide off in a straight line. Ease the edge off with your finger, get tweezers on the other end, place on the model and use a finger to hold in place and pull the backing away and let the transfer gently settle into place. I use Micro-Sol (from Microscale) brushed onto the model first which aids adhesion (and on finishing transfers helps to reduce silvering if used correctly).
Hope that helps!
PS They're not cheap!! It worked out at about £17 with the postage in the end for the sheet, which is about A6 in size. I've used about 1/8th of the sheet so far on this model.
The transfers were quite easy to slide off in a straight line. Ease the edge off with your finger, get tweezers on the other end, place on the model and use a finger to hold in place and pull the backing away and let the transfer gently settle into place. I use Micro-Sol (from Microscale) brushed onto the model first which aids adhesion (and on finishing transfers helps to reduce silvering if used correctly).
Hope that helps!
PS They're not cheap!! It worked out at about £17 with the postage in the end for the sheet, which is about A6 in size. I've used about 1/8th of the sheet so far on this model.
jameshilton
Registered
The one thing I'm nervous about Steve is the rear 'deflectors' but if they snap I'll solder some up from brass. I just had the sections lying around
In my experience it's the 'glue' that makes it brittle actually, it's always near the joints where it 'snaps' rather than bends. Hopefully this will be treated gently all it's life as I'll be the only one handling it but Steve's advice is good. I used 60 thou for the tanks, the thickest I had in stock. I'd use thicker with no issues if I'd have had some.
In my experience it's the 'glue' that makes it brittle actually, it's always near the joints where it 'snaps' rather than bends. Hopefully this will be treated gently all it's life as I'll be the only one handling it but Steve's advice is good. I used 60 thou for the tanks, the thickest I had in stock. I'd use thicker with no issues if I'd have had some.
jameshilton
Registered
As I say Steve, the only think that's prone to damage will be the rear deflectors. The tanks and cab bunker are solid structures, well re-inforced and braced internally, and rigidly secured to the body - so even if it's harder I don't envisage damage.
For those considering kit bashing / scratchbuilding anything themselves I'd echo Steve's excellent advice. I'd certainly consider using perspex for a wagon/coach/railcar model - and if I was looking to do a scratchbuilt loco I'd be making use of brass where possible.
For those considering kit bashing / scratchbuilding anything themselves I'd echo Steve's excellent advice. I'd certainly consider using perspex for a wagon/coach/railcar model - and if I was looking to do a scratchbuilt loco I'd be making use of brass where possible.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Some Plastruct is ABS (mostly the grey sections), but they also do some items in styrene. Traditional "plasticard" is styrene, as are the Evergreen sheet and strip products.
If anyone is in need of modelling plastics of almost all sorts, try the chaps at 4D Modelshop in London - very useful and helpful with mailorder:
http://www.modelshop.co.uk/ Jon.
If anyone is in need of modelling plastics of almost all sorts, try the chaps at 4D Modelshop in London - very useful and helpful with mailorder:
http://www.modelshop.co.uk/ Jon.
jameshilton
Registered
I'll see what I can do - I've been busy tonight, and will be tomorrow. I've got to fabricate the front number plate on Wednesday before priming so will take a close up then
jameshilton
Registered
A picture paints a thousand words...
Super pleased with the primer coat - it's hi-lighted a few rough spots but wow, what a transformation tying all the new bits together. It looks awesome and I can't wait to get a coat of black on ASAP.
I'm pondering getting a Halfords spray can (like I use for primer) due to the area to cover - although I expect I can get a better finish with the airbrush. Something to mull over tonight as I can't spray again until tomorrow evening.
Super pleased with the primer coat - it's hi-lighted a few rough spots but wow, what a transformation tying all the new bits together. It looks awesome and I can't wait to get a coat of black on ASAP.
I'm pondering getting a Halfords spray can (like I use for primer) due to the area to cover - although I expect I can get a better finish with the airbrush. Something to mull over tonight as I can't spray again until tomorrow evening.
shropshire lad
Registered
Very nice James 
Those rivets make a real difference
Those rivets make a real difference
