Scratchbuilding a G-scale Engine Shed
- Thread starter jameshilton
- Start date
awesome work mate.well donejameshilton said:Thanks!
Things have moved on and I'd not realised I hadn't posted up on here - as it's all on my blog (http://ejklr.blogspot.com ).
The windows are fitted - these are cut from plastic sold for outdoor green house type things. It was scored with a sharp Stanley knife and metal rule, then snapped over a sharp edge. The bars are painted on using a bow pen and satin black paint. The windows are a tight fit in the window spaces and aren't budging.
It's allowed a lot of creative angles already and I can't wait to progress this further. I'm currently thinking about how to do the shed doors and am currently thinking plasticard, as the edges will be a lot more exposed than the rest of the shed. I also still need to source some tar paper/felt stuff for the roof and work out the best way of doing a ventilator.
I have got drainpipes sorted though, I could even make them working I guess, but they will just be cosmetic for now!
so it tht daveport loco? are they good runner? what is like when it ran it?
Yes and no - it's the Liliput one, which is based on the Bachmann Davenport. Lovely runner - detailed and resprayed. Mechanically the same as the Bachmann one so that should be good as well.
James, I've found these pix of how I did the roofs on my Jacksons Buildings, as per an idea given to me by Mel.
I think they explain it quite well....
I cut some lengths of felt, and cut to half way along the width several times to simulate tiles....
I covered the roof with a large piece of felt as well. Under the felt, I'd used a car fibreglass repair sheet soaked with resin to further aid weather proofing. This had already set before I fixed the felt with a contact adhesive. Note I also cut 'tiles' along the bottom of this large sheet....
Cover liberally with adhesive!
Lay each strip, overlapping and gradually build up your 'slate' or 'tile' effect....
To finish, I 'capped' the ridge with a piece of felt folded to cover both sides of the top.
Hope this helps....
I think they explain it quite well....
I cut some lengths of felt, and cut to half way along the width several times to simulate tiles....
I covered the roof with a large piece of felt as well. Under the felt, I'd used a car fibreglass repair sheet soaked with resin to further aid weather proofing. This had already set before I fixed the felt with a contact adhesive. Note I also cut 'tiles' along the bottom of this large sheet....
Cover liberally with adhesive!
Lay each strip, overlapping and gradually build up your 'slate' or 'tile' effect....
To finish, I 'capped' the ridge with a piece of felt folded to cover both sides of the top.
Hope this helps....
Hi James. Like Gizzy says, I've used the roofing felt methods a few times and it really does work outdoors. Here's another example on two of Stocker's Pendlebury shop kits joined together.
PS, have some more points on me.
PS, have some more points on me
.
Yes no probs, I use Uhu. HUGE tubes available from the Pound Shop - not telling you how much they costpuffer said:
.
Hi James,
You can also use the window frame sealant available in cartridges. I use that for my both my tiled and also corrugated iron rooves.
Two lines, one on top of the previous line of tiles/shingles, and on on the plasticard roof as well.
The ridge can be either felt - the present name for it (the cheapest!) is 'underlayment' or possibly still 'shed' felt, with a sanded finish, or aluminium sheet from Fosters lager cans! Do NOT get the heavier stuff with a (coloured) gravel facing.
Here is a photo of one of the complicated bits on one of my buildings - around a dormer window - this building has 3
You can see the window frame sealant - it gets cleaned up when I have finished, and the roof is also painted as well. When all is done on some buildings I have added strips up the dormer/roof junction then lay the shingles on top leaving a gap down the valley having the aluminium on view.
I think the photo is actually larger than the shingles actually are.
Finally another idea from GSS, I'm sorry bit I have forgotten who mentioned it, for slated rooves - use the cheaper black vynil tiles (from B&Q at about £1.00 each for 12" square) and score the lines for the slates: an OLFA cutter may work but it needs trying also try pushing it instead of dragging - the latter may drag out chunks! Evo-stick I would think glue it down - yes it has some glue , bit I suspect that is for inside!
You can also use the window frame sealant available in cartridges. I use that for my both my tiled and also corrugated iron rooves.
Two lines, one on top of the previous line of tiles/shingles, and on on the plasticard roof as well.
The ridge can be either felt - the present name for it (the cheapest!) is 'underlayment' or possibly still 'shed' felt, with a sanded finish, or aluminium sheet from Fosters lager cans! Do NOT get the heavier stuff with a (coloured) gravel facing.
Here is a photo of one of the complicated bits on one of my buildings - around a dormer window - this building has 3
You can see the window frame sealant - it gets cleaned up when I have finished, and the roof is also painted as well. When all is done on some buildings I have added strips up the dormer/roof junction then lay the shingles on top leaving a gap down the valley having the aluminium on view.
I think the photo is actually larger than the shingles actually are.
Finally another idea from GSS, I'm sorry bit I have forgotten who mentioned it, for slated rooves - use the cheaper black vynil tiles (from B&Q at about £1.00 each for 12" square) and score the lines for the slates: an OLFA cutter may work but it needs trying also try pushing it instead of dragging - the latter may drag out chunks! Evo-stick I would think glue it down - yes it has some glue , bit I suspect that is for inside!
As you are building a Loco Shed with a strong Austrian atmosphere I thought that you may like to see the following pics. The old pictures were taken on a extended trip I undertook to Austria and Germany in February 1972.
The first picture is of the site as it is now (well when I last visited in May 2001). As you can see from the next 4 pics, the shed was getting ready for a busy day with at least 2 locomotives brewing up. The last loco picture is at the Main Line interchange fro Garsten which is just around the corner form the NG Shed, I included the Buffet Coach just for added interest. LGB made one of these coaches. This was also in the Shed Yard in 1972.
Hope you finds the pics of use and interest.
JonD
The first picture is of the site as it is now (well when I last visited in May 2001). As you can see from the next 4 pics, the shed was getting ready for a busy day with at least 2 locomotives brewing up. The last loco picture is at the Main Line interchange fro Garsten which is just around the corner form the NG Shed, I included the Buffet Coach just for added interest. LGB made one of these coaches. This was also in the Shed Yard in 1972.
Hope you finds the pics of use and interest.
JonD
Jon - they are wonderful, thank you so much for sharing them with us all 
Even better to see them in colour, rather than the B+W that I'm used to finding!
These are at Garsten yeah, on the Steyrtalbahn yes?
Even better to see them in colour, rather than the B+W that I'm used to finding!
These are at Garsten yeah, on the Steyrtalbahn yes?
James yes Garsten, Garsten is on the Steyerbahn. The line is preserved but from a station a Km or so up the hill from this location. The trains did a large loop to the Left of the Shed as you see it in the new view, climbing up to a level crossing way up high behind the shed. The preservation scheme is a short way from this.jameshilton said:Jon - they are wonderful, thank you so much for sharing them with us all
Even better to see them in colour, rather than the B+W that I'm used to finding!
These are at Garsten yeah, on the Steyrtalbahn yes?
JonD
Right guys, I've had a frustrating trip to B&Q today where I can't find any roofing felt WITHOUT the grey stone chippings on... where did you get yours from?
On a happier note progress on the shed doors tonight...
I've based these on the design of the shed doors of Garsten on the Steyrtalbahn
They're made from outdoor polystyrene, with 60thou plasticard used sliced into 7mm planks for the interior bracing. The plank detail is scribes on both sides. Superglued construction, hopefully robust enough for a few years. I've since added top and bottom bolt detail. Colour will be brown.
The side doors can also be seen, but not started. These are also based on Garsten with a window in the top third split into three vertical panes. Think I'll scribe these, mask the window and then add the panes when it's all dry with the bow pen.
None of these will be working. One of the side doors will be closed, the other ajar, and the front ones will be fixed open, with Araldite, when they're finished.
On a happier note progress on the shed doors tonight...
I've based these on the design of the shed doors of Garsten on the Steyrtalbahn
They're made from outdoor polystyrene, with 60thou plasticard used sliced into 7mm planks for the interior bracing. The plank detail is scribes on both sides. Superglued construction, hopefully robust enough for a few years. I've since added top and bottom bolt detail. Colour will be brown.
The side doors can also be seen, but not started. These are also based on Garsten with a window in the top third split into three vertical panes. Think I'll scribe these, mask the window and then add the panes when it's all dry with the bow pen.
None of these will be working. One of the side doors will be closed, the other ajar, and the front ones will be fixed open, with Araldite, when they're finished.
i used it with the gray stone on it and covered it with waterdown glue
PS when u say stone do u mean sand?????
PS when u say stone do u mean sand?????
Hi James, Re underrlayment, or shed elt, or rabbit hutch felt see
- http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/roofing-underlayment.html
Try a hardware shop, though I have seen it in B&Q, Hardware shops will be more likely to have 1/2 rolls instead of the full rolls from B&Q and such like.
If the superglue fails (it can; its OK for compression, but no good for tension) use Evo-stik - being lattex it has some 'give' in it.
- http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/roofing-underlayment.html
Try a hardware shop, though I have seen it in B&Q, Hardware shops will be more likely to have 1/2 rolls instead of the full rolls from B&Q and such like.
If the superglue fails (it can; its OK for compression, but no good for tension) use Evo-stik - being lattex it has some 'give' in it.
Thanks Peter - we'll see how she holds up...
I've had a chance to finish off three of the four shed doors today, with hinge, bolt and handle details.
The handle is 0.9mm and the bolts are 0.7mm brass wire, superglued into plasticard mounts. The hinges are plasticard microstrip, glued on with liquid poly which also dissolves the clear plastic too, making fixing the outer ones easier, I was imagining sticking my fingers together with superglue if it hadn't been!
Next up finish the second side door and then paint them! Plans are formulating for the interior, and the station building.
(lifted straight off my blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.com)[/SIZE][/i]
I've had a chance to finish off three of the four shed doors today, with hinge, bolt and handle details.
The handle is 0.9mm and the bolts are 0.7mm brass wire, superglued into plasticard mounts. The hinges are plasticard microstrip, glued on with liquid poly which also dissolves the clear plastic too, making fixing the outer ones easier, I was imagining sticking my fingers together with superglue if it hadn't been!
Next up finish the second side door and then paint them! Plans are formulating for the interior, and the station building.
(lifted straight off my blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.com)[/SIZE][/i]