I use USA Train / San Val wheels in a lot of LGB as being solid brass that add low level weight and help lighter cars stay on the track. Thers is no noticable height in couplers.
When purchasing USA TRains wheels I go to Charles Ro and buy the 10 pairs for $85 at shows. These are brass and very heavy, great for outdoors as they lower hte center of gravity.
Indoors I like the more expensive LGB spoked and double spokes wheels. I am qsomewhat whimsical and do not car what I run (the EUR-AM tunnel is open now).
The variation in the interpretation of "scale" is why I only express their size in inches, not scale, you have indeed stated you cannot indicate a scale for LGB wheels.
Also, you can buy different "1:29" wheels that are different sizes, even though they are meant to represent 33" wheels.
Bachman wheels are a perfect replacement for LGB wheels and as said should be easily obtained in your neck of the woods. As you have said that you are using LGB STOCK Bachman Wheels and if you can face the cost and shiny rims LGB metal are what you need. Other makes in my experience and I have bought other makes when in USA give a disappointing running experience and can be of smaller sizes.
I changed all my LGB stock to Metal Wheels a few years ago for my outdoor layout. I soon discovered the variations in the Metal Wheels on offer, and finally found that the LGB Metal Wheels are utterly reliable, excellent for back-to-back and give the most trouble-free running (and they sound good too). The double-spoked wheels are particularly attractive, and the more so since converting to Battery/RC I can run at sensible low speeds and see the sunlight reflecting off the spokes as they turn!
I disposed of all other makes of wheels -- having been especially disappointed with the Backmann metal ones, and by patiently trawling the wonderweb seeking out odd deals here and there, I have succeeded. As someone who ran Hornby-Dublo 3-Rail extensively, I learned that standardisation on wheels and couplings pays huge dividends in reliability of operations.
I only run LGB rolling stock. I had a few used cars come with some other brand metal wheels. I was having issues with the couplers on those cars hitting the track magnets, reed switches and level crossings, with both hook and loop and kadees. When using hook and loop couplers, those cars also tended to uncouple from the adjacent cars. I finally figured out the reason was the wheels on these particular cars were of a smaller diameter than the LGB causing clearance issues. Putting the LGB Wheels back in solved all the problems.
My recommendation is to stick to the same sized wheels as the LGB. But if you do want to go smaller, keep the lower ride height in mind when you buy couplers.
If you have Kadees, you really should go body mount, as it is hard to keep ANY coupler at the right height truck mounted. Kadees are especially problematic since the "glad hand" is 1/8" from the rail top, and while this should NOT happen even to a PROPER truck mount installation, it does, tension pulls the coupler tang down, and the glad hand catches on a switch.
All true but let me clarify. The kadees were correct for my LGBs. But since the wheels were smaller than the LGB wheels, the coupler "glad hand" was lower than it was supposed to be for that application. I assume that those who run smaller wheels on their LGB cars either use a different Kadee number or modify the glad hand.
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