LGB new to this DCC help?

Oh I looked at the on track uncouple thing.
But it occurred to me I would want to uncouple a rake in a siding so they may be different lengths.
So really on the loco makes sense if it’s easy to do…. Fail that I will be ake the advice of a bone handle knife and get out there
walkerart said:
Hi Dunny
Hope ya well.
Yes I bet it is an emotive subject.

Excuse my lack of knowledge what does KD stand for?

So are you saying hook and loop which I presume is the LGB factory fitted thing is best?
That you had a bad time with knuckle couplings?

I don’t need to uncouple mid rake of carriages.
I was just hoping to set up a train of passenger and caboose and a set of fright and maybe be able to cut them free from the loco and change the rake. So just get the loco able to do it via a CV.
But maybe as you say just do it manually …. And funny I have a few bone handles knives.

www.thingiverse.com

Servo Operated Knuckle Coupling by dagnall53

2021 Update.I have revised the dimensions and details slightly and now recommend that the main body should be made as a single part, - 0.2mm layers, WITH supports (touching buildplate only).I have put all the parts as a single print file so they do not need rotating etc.The disconnect lever now...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

This does look interesting mind.

Knuckle couplings are are more realistic for my US western stock.
But won’t change them if you chaps say it’s a bad move.

Thanks
Chris
Sunny here so going back to make more trestles.
Click to expand...
 
walkerart said:
Hi Dunny
Hope ya well.
Yes I bet it is an emotive subject.

Excuse my lack of knowledge what does KD stand for?

So are you saying hook and loop which I presume is the LGB factory fitted thing is best?
That you had a bad time with knuckle couplings?

I don’t need to uncouple mid rake of carriages.
I was just hoping to set up a train of passenger and caboose and a set of fright and maybe be able to cut them free from the loco and change the rake. So just get the loco able to do it via a CV.
But maybe as you say just do it manually …. And funny I have a few bone handles knives.

www.thingiverse.com

Servo Operated Knuckle Coupling by dagnall53

2021 Update.I have revised the dimensions and details slightly and now recommend that the main body should be made as a single part, - 0.2mm layers, WITH supports (touching buildplate only).I have put all the parts as a single print file so they do not need rotating etc.The disconnect lever now...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

This does look interesting mind.

Knuckle couplings are are more realistic for my US western stock.
But won’t change them if you chaps say it’s a bad move.

Thanks
Chris
Sunny here so going back to make more trestles.
Click to expand...
I have never gone round the LGB knuckle route as I and my buddies thought they were too large, clunky and as we are all European Narrow HpGauge the did not look at all right.KD Kaydee. KD’s would be better for you but at a cost, not the easiest to fit and not that keen on sharpe curves. Do you use LGB smallest curves? KD probably only happy on Radius 3.
www.kadee.com

G Scale Couplers - Couplers - Shop by Category

Couplers, Trucks, Wheels and Freight Cars - Made In USA
www.kadee.com www.kadee.com
 
Massoth do loco operated uncoupler and sell as a pair

8442010 Switching Coupler 2.0 (2/pack) – Massoth Elektronik GmbH

www.massoth.de www.massoth.de
I would say that they are one for the experienced modeler, and may need modification of the loco and tender, possibly an extra wire to be run from the loco to the tender if there isn't a wire free [i.e. a power socket] or one that can be repurposed and f2 and up need the soldered connections on the chip to be used. (F1 would be the smoke unit)

Kadees, I do like in OO, but I've no experience with them in G.
 
walkerart said:
Ah no good as I have to use radius 1 600
Eek the plot is not making it better
Click to expand...
In that case stick with LGB couplings, cheeper and mire reliable in the long run. I tend to swop any other makes to genuine LGB couplings as they are more reliable and durable. Compatibility does bring reliability.
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Massoth do loco operated uncoupler and sell as a pair

8442010 Switching Coupler 2.0 (2/pack) – Massoth Elektronik GmbH

www.massoth.de www.massoth.de
I would say that they are one for the experienced modeler, and may need modification of the loco and tender, possibly an extra wire to be run from the loco to the tender if there isn't a wire free [i.e. a power socket] or one that can be repurposed and f2 and up need the soldered connections on the chip to be used. (F1 would be the smoke unit)

Kadees, I do like in OO, but I've no experience with them in G.
Click to expand...
Thanks Craig…. I will def look. As you say a wire would be needed
As the rear light is fed and operated from the decoder I may be able to use the existing cable as I don’t have a sound unit in my tender?
But an extra cable is also ok as they are not often apart and I can add a small plug to disconnect.
Interesting area but also appears to be a bit of a minefield. I’m surprised as by now I thought there would be an off the shelf simple solution.
But I definitely want it on the loco so I can shunt a rake up a siding and pick up another. Nothing complex.
Thanks chum
 
Hi
Ok I looked at your link. It’s good I had spoken to James at Gaharden main massoth dealer and also very helpful.
This is hook and loop and I had hoped there was a bullnose type. But appears there isn’t.
So maybe I will have to stay hook loop for now.
Chris
 
actually whrn I have looked at the fitting. Because of the check plate covers you dont see much of the loop hook.

looks great and I suppose will save me money as knuckles are about £15 each pair.

This actually is a great idea.

So Im guessing I put a pair on the tender and carraige rake and then the other rake can be collected by the tender even with the freight just having a standard loop hook.?

So if i have the hook lifted can i shunt and not conect back to the rake?

Thanks
Chris
 
Oh I guess I make sure the rake doesnt have a hook at the loco end. So I can seperate the loco keep the hook down and push back to shunt the set back into a siding.

Perfect. Also cheaper than replacing all the hook loops on my tiny set of carriages which s better invested in this system at about £110.

Ok mond made up thank you .

Chris
 
Here is a video of what looks like a v1 in operation.


Idea is that generally one pack does the front and back of a locomotive.

I tend to go with the ikea fly swatter - mine was under a pound. place it between the buffers then push down a little and twist to separate the vehicles. The soft plastic won't damage anything and you don't have to crouch down.

1751068423103.png
 
walkerart said:
Oh I guess I make sure the rake doesnt have a hook at the loco end.
Click to expand...

The Massoth servo uncoupler have some extra pieces (marked in yellow) to a normal hook coupler which allows them to, push down a hook on the piece of rolling stock they are coupled to. IMG_3790.jpegThey also make an unpowered version which I have found is generally useful in rakes of coaches/wagons which need to be separated occasionally.
 
Software Tools said:
The Massoth servo uncoupler have some extra pieces (marked in yellow) to a normal hook coupler which allows them to, push down a hook on the piece of rolling stock they are coupled to. View attachment 344508They also make an unpowered version which I have found is generally useful in rakes of coaches/wagons which need to be separated occasionally.
Click to expand...
These checker plates bots also make it look less toy like and cover most of the loop. That has impressed me.
Given if I went knuckle they cost £16 a pair and there isn’t a a remote decouple version, this really is the way to go.
You mention there is also a manual version to put in the rake. Does that have the same check plate covers?
It’s exciting stuff.
Today I’m back to building trestles for the new risen railroad. So it’s cross cut saw out to chop lots of parts
 
Software Tools said:
The Massoth servo uncoupler have some extra pieces (marked in yellow) to a normal hook coupler which allows them to, push down a hook on the piece of rolling stock they are coupled to. View attachment 344508They also make an unpowered version which I have found is generally useful in rakes of coaches/wagons which need to be separated occasionally.
Click to expand...
Oh and did we say I would need a cable from my tender to the loco for a CV to be assigned? I assume that cable would need to go to a function point on the decoder?
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Here is a video of what looks like a v1 in operation.


Idea is that generally one pack does the front and back of a locomotive.

I tend to go with the ikea fly swatter - mine was under a pound. place it between the buffers then push down a little and twist to separate the vehicles. The soft plastic won't damage anything and you don't have to crouch down.

View attachment 344506
Click to expand...
I’m off to ilea then Craig good tip
 
walkerart said:
Oh I guess I make sure the rake doesnt have a hook at the loco end. So I can seperate the loco keep the hook down and push back to shunt the set back into a siding.

Perfect. Also cheaper than replacing all the hook loops on my tiny set of carriages which s better invested in this system at about £110.

Ok mond made up thank you .

Chris
Click to expand...
Mind not mond dang text thumb
 
walkerart said:
Thanks Craig…. I will def look. As you say a wire would be needed
As the rear light is fed and operated from the decoder I may be able to use the existing cable as I don’t have a sound unit in my tender?
But an extra cable is also ok as they are not often apart and I can add a small plug to disconnect.
Interesting area but also appears to be a bit of a minefield. I’m surprised as by now I thought there would be an off the shelf simple solution.
But I definitely want it on the loco so I can shunt a rake up a siding and pick up another. Nothing complex.
Thanks chum
Click to expand...
Hi
I see it says the coupler has an internal decoder of its own?
Does this mean it may not need wiring to the loco decoder but just assigned its own cv ?
Sorry if I’m being stupid
Chris
 
You would normally assign it the same address as the loco, then assign its operation to a spare function key..

PhilP.
 
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