LGB new to this DCC help?

You mention there is also a manual version to put in the rake. Does that have the same check plate covers?

Yes they do. They are all connected together, so by pressing down on the either side plate also depresses the central plate. I find them very useful and have fitted quite a few locos with them now.... helps a lot with manual uncoupling.
 
Yes they do. They are all connected together, so by pressing down on the either side plate also depresses the central plate. I find them very useful and have fitted quite a few locos with them now.... helps a lot with manual uncoupling.
looks
Yes they do. They are all connected together, so by pressing down on the either side plate also depresses the central plate. I find them very useful and have fitted quite a few locos with them now.... helps a lot with manual uncoupling.
Looks the answer ... as I mentioned they do a knuckle version. Also the paltes cover the slight toy look of the loop.
And I cant use the track based thing as I feel it stops you shunting away .... as you would re attache?


I also noted at £16 for a pair tyhe knuckles would go bonkers price...... so I am trying to keep cost down and get the stuff working.
As I wont have to change the loops .... it looks good.

Did you metion there is a non digital version for my stock?

I can add the check plate myself if not.

my first railway for myself ..... not family..... cant bloody wait. Made 8x bents yesterday.

boom xxx
 
looks

Looks the answer ... as I mentioned they do a knuckle version. Also the paltes cover the slight toy look of the loop.
And I cant use the track based thing as I feel it stops you shunting away .... as you would re attache?


I also noted at £16 for a pair tyhe knuckles would go bonkers price...... so I am trying to keep cost down and get the stuff working.
As I wont have to change the loops .... it looks good.

Did you metion there is a non digital version for my stock?

I can add the check plate myself if not.

my first railway for myself ..... not family..... cant bloody wait. Made 8x bents yesterday.

boom xxx
Ha sorry lots of text thumb mistakes in the last message. x

8442010 Switching Coupler 2.0 (2/pack)​


this does look like a good product.
Its funny how one can get obsessed with tiny details, like I did over my window latches at home.... then you never look again.

Still remote coupling is a great thing im guessing when it may be down the garden in the winter.

www.GartenBahnSupplies.co.uk

gartenbahnsupplies@gmail.com


James at the above is such a lovely and helpful chap.

Im off to see my chum who plays Steve Mcdonald in Coronation street as he has a bench saw to cut my trestle timbers. (name drop) ...

Loco not back from Dave yet, so construction only.

Thanks chaps
Chris.
 
Chris my previous post explained how to use your Mac.
Hi John,

Only just got a moment to sit and look at your advice. Looks really interesting and certainly a route I will have to learn to get the Cv's set.

Found a good remote coupling unit from the guys below.

8442010 Switching Coupler 2.0 (2/pack)​


www.GartenBahnSupplies.co.uk

gartenbahnsupplies@gmail.com

I couldn't find a knuckle version and as Im setting up US western locos it would ave been better. But at £16 for two non actuated it would be an expensive swop out for the existing hook loops. With the one above the check plate sort of stops you seeing the loop.
Also its on the loco not on the track so Im guessing shunting away a rake of carriages without reconecting is possible. Esp good when its winter of raining.

Anyway I will have a proper look at the details you sent and thanks.

Wimbeldon has just started and its hot outside so time for some strawberries.....

Chris.
 
I've been using this free ap to layout my garden track.
Its very good but you can only have 50 items before you need to pay.


RailModeller
 
Hi chaps,
After all your fab advice I collected my loco again yesterday….. it was indeed the two wires to the motor being the wrong way.
So last night I ran it and the direction is correct and the lights are coming in in the right direction.
Box ticked. Thank you.
I’ve been making “bents” to make trestles and giving them a light bar b q to age
Phil helped me to get going last night but it seems happy enough clicking around today.
So I’m back to the wood cut for parts to start the up to table height.
I looked at coupling advice from you all and it seems the loop hook with a check plate cover is the only remote uncouple way.
Couldn’t find a knuckle version.
And the massoth one has its own decoder so can work on its own.
I’m probably going to have two rakes any way of mixed traffic.
So loco off shunt set into siding pick up the freight.
Well for now.

Also just got 4066 log wagon for £38 so very pleased as I believe they didn’t make many at LGB and it’s a lovely addition to North America railways as I imagine they were mixed trains …. Two carriages for people and bits and f random frieight.

Well any ideas let me know.

Hope you are all well and out in the sun.
We are doing bar b chicken.
It’s called beer can chicken.
You put a can of ale up its ass with some holes in the tin and keeps it moist.

X Chris
 

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Hi chaps,
After all your fab advice I collected my loco again yesterday….. it was indeed the two wires to the motor being the wrong way.
So last night I ran it and the direction is correct and the lights are coming in in the right direction.
Box ticked. Thank you.
I’ve been making “bents” to make trestles and giving them a light bar b q to age
Phil helped me to get going last night but it seems happy enough clicking around today.
So I’m back to the wood cut for parts to start the up to table height.
I looked at coupling advice from you all and it seems the loop hook with a check plate cover is the only remote uncouple way.
Couldn’t find a knuckle version.
And the massoth one has its own decoder so can work on its own.
I’m probably going to have two rakes any way of mixed traffic.
So loco off shunt set into siding pick up the freight.
Well for now.

Also just got 4066 log wagon for £38 so very pleased as I believe they didn’t make many at LGB and it’s a lovely addition to North America railways as I imagine they were mixed trains …. Two carriages for people and bits and f random frieight.

Well any ideas let me know.

Hope you are all well and out in the sun.
We are doing bar b chicken.
It’s called beer can chicken.
You put a can of ale up its ass with some holes in the tin and keeps it moist.

X Chris
Nice bents.
 
Well Dave changed the wires over and its up and running in the right diretions. .
So on to changing the bulb in one carriage. Turns out im not great at soldering..... but practice will help.

Chris
 
Well Dave changed the wires over and its up and running in the right diretions. .
So on to changing the bulb in one carriage. Turns out im not great at soldering..... but practice will help.

Chris
Practice soldering by joining some old wire, first effort will be rubbish but you should get better. Secret is cleanliness, wire wool very good at cleaning anything for soldering but do not let bits get onto circuit boards. Here use new clean emery cloth or wet and dry (dry) sandpaper. If you have some helping hands use these to put 2 parts together otherwise soldering is a 3 handed job. Touch the wires with soldering iron and thenintroduce the solder, fluxed solder will flow almost instantly. This should give you some confidence.image.jpg
 
Hi chaps…. Well solder lesson went well.
Turned out the bulb in the carriage was the wrong voltage… dave had mixed them up at various shows. Tried a labeled 18v red no prob but the white went in about ten seconds.
So that’s a lesson learnt.

Next (no doubt silly question)
I have one turnout /point at the moment.
Does this refer to a left as that’s set from the straight bit?
I need another so I need another as in maybe right….. but I don’t know which is which?
Also I assume R1175 is the radius of this curve ?… would I need a small straight to enter a R600 bend or should I find more of R1175.

Hope some of you made the great gathering …. I watched it on utube it looked great. Would have liked more period carriages to walk through but that’s just me.

Hope you are all keeping well.

Chris
 

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Also do these two dots orange and white mean I can connect this to a decoder to open it remotely?
Happy Sunday
 

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Also do these two dots orange and white mean I can connect this to a decoder to open it remotely?
The two coloured dots are the power feeds to the motor. You can use an ordinary switch to operate the motor as well however the point motor is not digital as standard. I used the LGB EPL system, all magnets and miracles - more miracles in my case - but it served its purpose.
 
Next (no doubt silly question)
I have one turnout /point at the moment.
Does this refer to a left as that’s set from the straight bit?
I need another so I need another as in maybe right….. but I don’t know which is which?
Also I assume R1175 is the radius of this curve ?… would I need a small straight to enter a R600 bend or should I find more of R1175.
No such thing as a silly question just silly mistakes because the question wasn't asked.

Your set of points is a LGB R3 left hand point. The 22.5° marked underneath is the radius of the curved rail. The new part numbers for R3 points are 16050 for the RH and 16150 for the LH, these are both with motors. The handing of the points is basically which way the curve off direction is. For the geometry of the rest of the track you may need there is plenty of info on the WWW, for instance:

lgb-tracksystem-160_large.jpg
No doubt I am completely wrong yet again but someone who really knows will be along soon enough.
 
Also do these two dots orange and white mean I can connect this to a decoder to open it remotely?
Happy Sunday
Yes you can connect it to a decoder....
 
The two coloured dots are the power feeds to the motor. You can use an ordinary switch to operate the motor as well however the point motor is not digital as standard. I used the LGB EPL system, all magnets and miracles - more miracles in my case - but it served its purpose.

It's Orange and white based on LGB's wiring colour coding, The wire for points was Orange and White and the point switches were Orange. This was to help ensure people didn't cross connect things they shouldn't.

1754854306141.png
1754854466891.png
 
No such thing as a silly question just silly mistakes because the question wasn't asked.

Your set of points is a LGB R3 left hand point. The 22.5° marked underneath is the radius of the curved rail. The new part numbers for R3 points are 16050 for the RH and 16150 for the LH, these are both with motors. The handing of the points is basically which way the curve off direction is. For the geometry of the rest of the track you may need there is plenty of info on the WWW, for instance:

View attachment 346138
No doubt I am completely wrong yet again but someone who really knows will be along soon enough.

The Geometry diagram is really useful in track planning. The 22.5° figure helps you determine how much of a circle your track covers - that is with 22.5° then you need 4 pieces to get to a quarter circle or 16 pieces for a whole circle.
 
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