LGB new to this DCC help?

Hey guys just read the thing below. After your u tube thing thanks.
So I have 55015 …. Are we saying I can connect to my Mac ?
My Mac ️ is only two years old …. Be amazed if this handset even got on with it.
So thoughts when ya about.
  • Programming Interface:
    The LGB 55015 programmer is a common choice for connecting the MTS system to a computer.
  • Mac Connection:
    The 55015 typically connects to the Mac via a serial port. If your Mac doesn't have a serial port, you'll need a USB to serial adapter.
 
The 55045 was a programming interface that connected to the computer, see my post on this other thread.
dunnyrail

Post in thread 'LGB new to this DCC help?'

walkerart said:
That’s amazing. way to go
I think I will take it back to Dave as it’s defo running rear lights going forward and front when it’s in reverse. And as it’s my first decoder and only loco as it stands it’s prob beyond me.
Click to expand...
Good plan till you are confident. You can get a small LGB device that will connect your system to a PC where you can do updates and interrogate the CV’s. LGB 55045 that runs on my old Windows 98 Computer, another different unit was needed for a portable with I think USB link. You can just see it is plugged into my 50110 Transformer same as you have.
image.jpg
  • Like
There was a different LGB version that had a USB plug rather than a serial one. However as this is ancient technology I am not sure the software would run or hardware link to a current Mac or even Windows now. Certainly when I got the USB one back in the early 2000’s I intended to use it on my Windows 98 portable.
 
Hi guys. I’m going back to Dave today with my loco. So as we know when I press the left arrow control which you say is reverse … the loco goes forward but the rear light is on. And when the right arrow (forward) is selected it goes backwards but the front light comes on.
Could it be that the wires to the motor are the wrong way round?
I will get him to open it up so I can see how that’s done and I will get some photos so you maybe able to spot the problem.
Hope you are all well today
 
walkerart said:
Silly question are the yellow and green the polarity from decoder to motor ?
Click to expand...
There are some 'standard' colours in the world of LGB..
Brown and White being track-power, and Green and Yellow, being motor-leads..

Note these are NOT the same as the NMRA DCC 'standards', as LGB were originally analogue and have carried over their conventions for consistency..
One LGB 'standard' you will discover, is that nearly all the lighting wires will be black, and nearly all the multi-way ribbon cables, will be grey! - Except where they aren't. :nerd:

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
There are some 'standard' colours in the world of LGB..
Brown and White being track-power, and Green and Yellow, being motor-leads..

Note these are NOT the same as the NMRA DCC 'standards', as LGB were originally analogue and have carried over their conventions for consistency..
One LGB 'standard' you will discover, is that nearly all the lighting wires will be black, and nearly all the multi-way ribbon cables, will be grey! - Except where they aren't. :nerd:

PhilP.
Click to expand...
 
PhilP said:
There are some 'standard' colours in the world of LGB..
Brown and White being track-power, and Green and Yellow, being motor-leads..

Note these are NOT the same as the NMRA DCC 'standards', as LGB were originally analogue and have carried over their conventions for consistency..
One LGB 'standard' you will discover, is that nearly all the lighting wires will be black, and nearly all the multi-way ribbon cables, will be grey! - Except where they aren't. :nerd:

PhilP.
Click to expand...
That logic certainly matches the elastic ruler that they used to have.
 
dunnyrail said:
That logic certainly matches the elastic ruler that they used to have.
Click to expand...
Ok it’s back with Dave he also feels it may be + negative wrong way around.
I mentioned the loco has smoke and he says there may be a function button that n the controller to turn it on off.
When it was analogue just added the oil and off it went.
Have asked to change to all knuckle connections….. I believe there is a way to remote uncouple them?

Chris
The idiot

I said to Dave don’t worry this will end as I learn and get things right.
 
walkerart said:
Ok it’s back with Dave he also feels it may be + negative wrong way around.
I mentioned the loco has smoke and he says there may be a function button that n the controller to turn it on off.
When it was analogue just added the oil and off it went.
Have asked to change to all knuckle connections….. I believe there is a way to remote uncouple them?

Chris
The idiot

I said to Dave don’t worry this will end as I learn and get things right.
Click to expand...
There are a few different types, LGB and I think Bachman did them as well. These are not easily remotely uncoupled. KD couplings can be fitted (at a big cost) but not easily and they use magnetic uncoupling.
 
walkerart said:
Ok it’s back with Dave he also feels it may be + negative wrong way around.
I mentioned the loco has smoke and he says there may be a function button that n the controller to turn it on off.
When it was analogue just added the oil and off it went.
Have asked to change to all knuckle connections….. I believe there is a way to remote uncouple them?

Chris
The idiot

I said to Dave don’t worry this will end as I learn and get things right.
Click to expand...

In analogue, the smoke unit would be controlled by a 4-way switch inside the cab.
 
dunnyrail said:
There are a few different types, LGB and I think Bachman did them as well. These are not easily remotely uncoupled. KD couplings can be fitted (at a big cost) but not easily and they use magnetic uncoupling.
Click to expand...
Ah so I need to think about it and read before I change?
I’m not to bothered about remote uncoupling …. But thought it would be good for changing to a freight rake when I get there
 
Software Tools said:
The same style of "remote" uncoupling as on a loco with LGB hook couplings is possible, using a small servo motor to pull the knuckle locking pin..
Click to expand...
So sticking to a hook and loop is better if I want to remote drop a rake of carriages ?

It’s not a now thing as I’m yet to put in two turnouts to allow parking up another rake or train but it’s certainly something I wish to consider Nader .
 
walkerart said:
Is that servo set in the track ?
Click to expand...

With the hook couplers it is on the loco and commanded through a CV setting on the DCC decoder. See link below for a 3D print knuckle coupler servo...

www.thingiverse.com

Servo Operated Knuckle Coupling by dagnall53

2021 Update.I have revised the dimensions and details slightly and now recommend that the main body should be made as a single part, - 0.2mm layers, WITH supports (touching buildplate only).I have put all the parts as a single print file so they do not need rotating etc.The disconnect lever now...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
 
Couplings can be a bit of an emotive subject. As Software says remote in the loco uncoupling available for LGB type hook and loop couplings. This will only work on the loco not in the middle of the train unless you fit up more vehicles with the Servo device, expensive and a problem with your current setup that ha only around 20 address posibilities. KD will work on every vehicle thus fitted for remote uncoupling but with issues on tight curves and as I previously mentioned tricky and expensive to fit. I and others came to the conclusion many years ago that LGB hook and loop are much less hassle, I have fitted every vehicle with hooks but none on locomotives but locomotives have the loop dropped down 20-30 though with an oblong inset where the screw fits. This gives near perfect operation with unwanted uncoupling being an extremely rare event. I use old bone handled thin blunt knives as uncouplers. As I do regular operating sessions with 3-4 guests timetables and wagon cards with waybills reliability is absolute necesity.
 
Software Tools said:
With the hook couplers it is on the loco and commanded through a CV setting on the DCC decoder. See link below for a 3D print knuckle coupler servo...

www.thingiverse.com

Servo Operated Knuckle Coupling by dagnall53

2021 Update.I have revised the dimensions and details slightly and now recommend that the main body should be made as a single part, - 0.2mm layers, WITH supports (touching buildplate only).I have put all the parts as a single print file so they do not need rotating etc.The disconnect lever now...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
Click to expand...
That’s really interesting… I only would like one on the loco. Do you know the servo they use and I presume that is connected to a function outlet on the decoder?

I have a contact for 3D printing so I will ask him the cost.
One thing which confused me was the need to use a paperclip in its build.
I will read it again.
And when you say “hook” you mean what I may call a knuckle coupling as in your u tube link.

Thank you so much.
Chris
 
dunnyrail said:
Couplings can be a bit of an emotive subject. As Software says remote in the loco uncoupling available for LGB type hook and loop couplings. This will only work on the loco not in the middle of the train unless you fit up more vehicles with the Servo device, expensive and a problem with your current setup that ha only around 20 address posibilities. KD will work on every vehicle thus fitted for remote uncoupling but with issues on tight curves and as I previously mentioned tricky and expensive to fit. I and others came to the conclusion many years ago that LGB hook and loop are much less hassle, I have fitted every vehicle with hooks but none on locomotives but locomotives have the loop dropped down 20-30 though with an oblong inset where the screw fits. This gives near perfect operation with unwanted uncoupling being an extremely rare event. I use old bone handled thin blunt knives as uncouplers. As I do regular operating sessions with 3-4 guests timetables and wagon cards with waybills reliability is absolute necesity.
Click to expand...
Hi Dunny
Hope ya well.
Yes I bet it is an emotive subject.

Excuse my lack of knowledge what does KD stand for?

So are you saying hook and loop which I presume is the LGB factory fitted thing is best?
That you had a bad time with knuckle couplings?

I don’t need to uncouple mid rake of carriages.
I was just hoping to set up a train of passenger and caboose and a set of fright and maybe be able to cut them free from the loco and change the rake. So just get the loco able to do it via a CV.
But maybe as you say just do it manually …. And funny I have a few bone handles knives.

www.thingiverse.com

Servo Operated Knuckle Coupling by dagnall53

2021 Update.I have revised the dimensions and details slightly and now recommend that the main body should be made as a single part, - 0.2mm layers, WITH supports (touching buildplate only).I have put all the parts as a single print file so they do not need rotating etc.The disconnect lever now...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

This does look interesting mind.

Knuckle couplings are are more realistic for my US western stock.
But won’t change them if you chaps say it’s a bad move.

Thanks
Chris
Sunny here so going back to make more trestles.
 
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