LGB Manual uncoupler

[Sarah Winfield]

Please would a member explain how this works?

Is it possible to operate it from a standing position to avoid the need to get down on your hands and knees if the uncoupler is on the ground? I wondered if using a long stick it can be operated properly?

I assume when vehicles pass over it it doesn't interfere with the normal coupling?

Thank you,

Sarah Winfield

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I think it depends on if you are single hooked (normally a small rod from the top) or double hooked ( a flat plate from the side).... but I've only seen this done from afar, I threw them all away when I got them.

 

[LGB-Sid]

Sarah do you mean the one that sits between the tracks ? I use them with a single hook on one wagon and a hoop on the other if I shunt over it at the correct speed then the hook will disengage from the the wagon or my case engine which is what I use it for so the engine can run round and attached to the opposite end of the wagons for the return journey. I have found if I travel over it fast enough then there is not time for the wagons to disengage and they follow the engine, only tried this with a limited number of wagons . I sit about 10 foot away from where the uncoupler are and after a bit of practice I can get them to work nearly 100% of the time

 

[Zerogee]

I've never used them myself, but I believe that they can also be used in pairs (butted end-to-end) to uncouple double-hooked rolling stock - because to do that, you need both hooks to be lowered together.
I think they work by pushing up on the "tail" of the sprung hook as it runs over the uncoupler ramp, thus lowering the actual hook and allowing it to disengage from the loop.
They don't need any kind of manual input to operate, they are static items that simply uncouple everything that runs over them - but as Sid says above, if you run over them fast enough then the wagon most likely just follows the train and re-hooks itself as soon as the hook tail(s) clear the ramp; to actually uncouple, I think you need to either run VERY slowly, or even stop dead with the coupling right over the ramp - then pull away again and the uncoupled stock should stay behind....

Jon.

 

[KentKeith]

I've got some of these uncouplers and use them in pairs at the end of sidings. In this picture the uncouplers are between the loco and the first coach



The loco moves forward the headshunt and leaves the coaches behind:



The point is then changed and the loco then enters the passing loop:



...and then backs onto the front of the train:



All I've got to do now is pull my fingers out and fit the dcc point motor thingies purchased from Muns last year and then it will be a completely hands free operation!!

 

[idlemarvel]

You need a short piece of straight track on the approach to the uncoupler, whether you have the manual or motorised one. Doesn't have to be too long, 150mm would do, just to make sure the couplings facing each other are aligned to the track direction. The pictures from KentKeith are an ideal way to use them as you have the whole length of the point straight section before the uncouplers.
Also if you have old rolling stock, some of the hook and loop couplings have a very sharp angled triangular piece under the hook which can catch on the uncoupler; it just needs to be rounded with a file.
EDIT: found picture from old thread below:

 

[tac foley]

My manual uncoupler for LGB is an old-fashioned lolly stick.

tac
OVGRS

 

[trammayo]

My manual uncoupler for LGB is an old-fashioned lolly stick.

tac
OVGRS

So you had to suck it before you could see?

 

[tac foley]

'zackly.

tac

 

[dutchelm]

A steel rule works well.

 

[rhaetianfan]

I've got some of these uncouplers and use them in pairs at the end of sidings. In this picture the uncouplers are between the loco and the first coach

All I've got to do now is pull my fingers out and fit the dcc point motor thingies purchased from Muns last year and then it will be a completely hands free operation!!

Keith - using LGB points (as you are), you don't need to motorise the points to get hands free operation - in your set-up, run straight onto the track to uncouple the coaches with the entrance point set to 'normal', i.e. straight ahead. The point at the buffer stop end is left in 'reverse', i.e. to the curved position. Uncouple the loco, run it forward through the point and let it spring back. Reverse the loco and it will take the loop, running through the entrance point set straight ahead, after which it springs back and you can go back onto the coaches to depart.

I've used this method for years, all it needs is a bit of WD40 on the point blade slides to make sure that they spring back reliably to their set position after being run through in the 'wrong' direction. Avoids the need for electrics which have to be protected from the damp. The only thing to remember is if you run a longer train into the loop, change engines and run back out again - the last coach might be straddling the points and end up taking both lines as the train departs!

Cheers
Mark

 

[tac foley]

A steel rule works well.

But wood is 'friendier' to handle, and has no carbon footprint, except when you burn it. More fun to obtain, too, than a lump of steel - how many lolly sticks have YOU seen that were made of metal?

The environmentalist in me says - 'Just go for the wooden lolly stick' - in fact, I might have a T-shirt made with that on the front. It's certainly worth getting a few hundred bumper stickers made, doncha think?

Anyhow, they don't need anything in the way of fancy shuffling around your track - they can be used anywhere without special equipment.

tac
OVGRS
POCRR - Eastern Sub

 

[PhilP]

A steel rule works well.

Don't like using 'steel' rule, or old butter-knife.. Chance of shorting the rails..
Lolly-stick
Tongue depressor
Plastic plant label
Loyalty (or other) card
Heritage Railway time-table

Depends where you are, really..

 

[Zerogee]

For the benefit of newer members, time to plug once again the "GizTool" - so called because the idea came to me via Gizzy of this parish - which is a cut-down plant labelling stake of the kind used by Garden Centres and Plant Nurseries; the square bit that they write prices and names on is cut away, and the end of the plastic stake bit re-shaped so that, when gripped by the pointy end, the tool can be slipped between the coupler loops and given a quick twist - thus depressing the hook(s) while the twist pushes the cars gently apart.
Of course you can do exactly the same thing with an old credit card on a stick, or any of hundred other methods - but this one just seems to work particularly well..... the pointy end can also be used to dissuade small children (or indeed larger ones) from touching your precious trains.....







Apologies, as before, for the fairly awful pics - originals taken in far too little light and then tweaked almost to the point of uselessness in order to make the important bits visible! One day I'll take some new ones....

Jon.