How do I make a simple power buffer for coach lighting.

[Slawman]

Sorry to raise this topic again, but I am really impressed with this circuit and want to replicate it myself. I have actually spent a few hours this weekend trying to make a circuit just like this (but failed). Would you be willing to list the components used? And if possible provide A circuit diagram. (I assume that this circuit will work for both digital and anaglog layouts?)

Hi Simon, sorry for the late reply and thank you for your kind words. The circuit is working well. I have it on DCC but it will also work for DC.

Alan's posts above pretty well nail it in terms of how its hung together. I use a decent blob of hot glue to stick the cap to the board and then the cap to the underside of the roof. I insulated all of the exposed wire with suitable diameter heat shrink as you end up with a few things pretty close together. It helps if you have a reasonably small soldering iron for fine electrical work.

I have given everything a decent conformal coating so it will probably run underwater and it most certainly weather resistant.

The lights I use for this carriage are a warm white strip:

200X10MM Warm/Cool White COB Chip LED Panel Light DC12-24V Strip Lamp | eBay

Be careful to adjust the maximum voltage output of the voltage regulator with a multi-meter to align roughly with the LED input requirement before you hook everything up. I blew up one LED array in an instant because I didnt do this first (head conker emoji).

The only other thing I have found over the years is to use good quality pickup wheels (if you will use track power). They are the most expensive part of the setup but are critical in terms of it all working reliably. The Piko or LGB ones work reliably and over years. I recently used a number of the Piko 36167 Ball bearing wheelsets.

I find most of my bits and bobs on ebay out of China, it takes a while for postage but worth the wait in terms of value.

I really enjoy the fact that my carriages are lit now, they looks heaps better in daytime as well and I think it is a good, relatively cheap upgrade and I am very pleased with the outcome of this project.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

[Simon Potter]

Hi Simon, sorry for the late reply and thank you for your kind words. The circuit is working well. I have it on DCC but it will also work for DC.

Alan's posts above pretty well nail it in terms of how its hung together. I use a decent blob of hot glue to stick the cap to the board and then the cap to the underside of the roof. I insulated all of the exposed wire with suitable diameter heat shrink as you end up with a few things pretty close together. It helps if you have a reasonably small soldering iron for fine electrical work.

I have given everything a decent conformal coating so it will probably run underwater and it most certainly weather resistant.

The lights I use for this carriage are a warm white strip:

200X10MM Warm/Cool White COB Chip LED Panel Light DC12-24V Strip Lamp | eBay

Be careful to adjust the maximum voltage output of the voltage regulator with a multi-meter to align roughly with the LED input requirement before you hook everything up. I blew up one LED array in an instant because I didn't do this first (head conker emoji).

The only other thing I have found over the years is to use good quality pickup wheels (if you will use track power). They are the most expensive part of the setup but are critical in terms of it all working reliably. The Piko or LGB ones work reliably and over years. I recently used a number of the Piko 36167 Ball bearing wheelsets.

I find most of my bits and bobs on ebay out of China, it takes a while for postage but worth the wait in terms of value.

I really enjoy the fact that my carriages are lit now, they looks heaps better in daytime as well and I think it is a good, relatively cheap upgrade and I am very pleased with the outcome of this project.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Thanks for you message,

Interesting point you make about the Pickup wheels, i have a few coaches which already have one set of LGB pickup wheels installed so will be using them, as the source of power for the lighting in those coaches. However i have also recently purchased 2 sets of LGB 63193 contact parts for metal wheels (LGB 63193 Contact Parts for Metal Wheels | eBay), any know how good theses are and if using the system above I would need 1 set (i.e half a packet?) on each coach or 2 sets?

 

[Slawman]

I have not tried to use these for any DIY before. The capacitor will, to some extent smooth out intermittent connection. I would try with one set and see how it goes personally.

 

[stockers]

Thanks for you message,

Interesting point you make about the Pickup wheels, i have a few coaches which already have one set of LGB pickup wheels installed so will be using them, as the source of power for the lighting in those coaches. However i have also recently purchased 2 sets of LGB 63193 contact parts for metal wheels (LGB 63193 Contact Parts for Metal Wheels | eBay), any know how good theses are and if using the system above I would need 1 set (i.e half a packet?) on each coach or 2 sets?

The only trouble with these is they act as brakes - needs a good loco to pull a few of these. Electrically, they work well.

 

[Slawman]

Well it has been a few years and I thought it may be worth following-up on this thread. All of these lighting installations have worked flawlessly for the last 5 or so years. Still like the day I put them together. The only real issue I have had is the hot glue I used for some installations has lost adhesion and I have had to re-do. I also ended up using a similar approach to some of the buildings on my layout and this was also good however water ingress became an issue here and there as these are out in the rain day in and out.