Basic analog track control questions. (Aristocraft TE)

korm kormsen

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Henri,
(just for the record... LGB transformers output red and blue are DC, and black and white are AC.)

yes, they say you could use DC. (but i don't like to use it, because replacements for burnt switchmotors are expensive.)

the problem lies in the connections. there are two contacts on the motor. let us call them "1" and "2".
to turn the switch right, you need + on 1 and - on 2.
to turn the switch left, you need + on 2 and - on 1.
with just one pushbutton on each of the two circuits, i don't see how to connect this, without having a short circuit.
(maybe Greg, or another sparky knows how)

the diodes are already built in as well with the reed switch, as with the switch box.
if you replace the switchbox by bell buttons, you need a diode behind each button. (one in reverse to the other)
(black output of LGB transformer to both bellbuttons, each to one diode, out from both diodes together as orange to switchmotor. white from transformer to switchmotor.)

Gizzy,
your link says: "
Electrical:
The 51750 requires AC
power from an LGB power supply.

JimmyB,
first, all depends, if you want to put "hands on" or run on automatic.
for automatic running the epl system is a cheap and reliable option.

i am running up to four Stainz/tender motors at the same time, fed by each additional switch. (3 to 4 Amp)
and i burnt nothing but reeds and cigarets since '84.
 

chris m01

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I have no experience with Piko point motors but I must say I am impressed with the LGB ones - in t(he winter they can sit in water, covered in snow, frozen solid etc but come Spring they just work. I only very occasionally have to take one apart and clean it out. Mine are mostly used with old Aristo points which the LGB and presumably Piko) motors also fit perfectly.
 

chris m01

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Henri,

with just one pushbutton on each of the two circuits, i don't see how to connect this, without having a short circuit.
(maybe Greg, or another sparky knows how)

.
The 55475 receiver sends out just one pulse for about a second duration when it gets a message from the transmitter so no chance of burning out a motor. The transmitter wont send out another message until you let go of the button and press it again. It sends out a single pulse with dc power flowing in one direction. On the next press of the button on the transmitter the electronics in the unit send a pulse of dc power flowing in the opposite direction to the previous pulse. So each press of the button on the radio transmitter causes the flow of the current to be opposite to the previous flow. Quite clever really. I still think the original Aristo Train Engineer was a brilliant, well priced system which gave people a relatively low cost and simple route into radio controlled garden railways. Such a shame there isn't an equivalent today.
 
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chris m01

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Henri,


i am running up to four Stainz/tender motors at the same time, fed by each additional switch. (3 to 4 Amp)
and i burnt nothing but reeds and cigarets since '84.

These bad boys with sound, smoke units and a heavy load might well pull more than 4 amps.
IMG_3622.JPG
 

Sean.

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Quite clever really. I still think the original Aristo Train Engineer was a brilliant, well priced system which gave people a relatively low cost and simple route into radio controlled garden railways. Such a shame there isn't an equivalent today.
I do believe the Revolution has a base model for track control , and I do think Tony has something similar ..
 

chris m01

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The Revolution is expensive and can we be sure of continued supply in the future? Does Tony do a hand held unit that operates both track power and points? I have built a base station for track power that runs from a Deltang tx and rx. It is possible to build a radio control point controller from Deltang units conmbined with pikaxe software but that would still be two units to hold rather than one. And of course the TE came with a clip so you could carry it hands free.
 

JimmyB

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JimmyB,
first, all depends, if you want to put "hands on" or run on automatic.
for automatic running the epl system is a cheap and reliable option.

Just bought a TE and I am not looking for anything automatic, just RC control of the points (switches) and hopefully the isolated sections.
 

Tony Walsham

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Lately I have been making trackside R/C again using VIPER ESC's in a case.
I am just about to delete it from the range. I cannot make them cheaply enough.
I do not make turnout controllers but Deltang does.
Deltang R/C layout control
 

PhilP

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Lately I have been making trackside R/C again using VIPER ESC's in a case.
I am just about to delete it from the range. I cannot make them cheaply enough.
I do not make turnout controllers but Deltang does.
Deltang R/C layout control

Although the 'donkey' has been done on the RC front.. This does rely on the Customer coming up with mountings, housings, and linkages to make it work.

I did look at making a housing, with servo, etc. but decided the market would not cover the development costs..

Similarly with a trackside system. Not a big enough 'niche'..
 
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Actually the "trackside" systems were often small enough to fit in a boxcar, and thus were mobile. Very early on the Aristo Train Engineer series were deployed as such, and also solved the issue running multiple locos, i.e. the total current draw.

In the US, this is clearly more common than in the UK, and more common with diesels than steamers.

Greg
 

JimmyB

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My TE will hopefully be arriving today, and I have managed to review the manuals on Gsacle.net site, and also looked at Greg's website for hints and tip, so the question I have is that I will be locating the units in my garage (brick built) which has mains power and is relevantly close to the layout and easy to run the track power. I am sure that I will have transmit receive issues through the brick so I would like some advice on the antennas, e.g. can I extend them to outside, there are multiple base and accessory units, do they need separate antennae, or could they use a single item, or am I worrying over nothing and will get a good signal through the brick!!
 

Gizzy

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You can extend the antenna from the base station/receiver unit, as it is just a wire.

When I had mine, it was located in a wood shed. I extended the wire antenna using a chock block connector and ran this outside my shed. Easy enough to do outside your brick garage, but keep away from any metal framed windows.

I also fitted a computer fan to my base station. Easy enough to do? I think that Mike may already have done this though....
 

Gizzy

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Gizzy, many thanks, thought could i put all antenna to a single chock-block, or will I need a separate on for each antenna, any particular length. On the fan front, yes Mike has fans in each base station.
For the receiver James, the Antenna can be as long as you like.

Antenna length is only critical for the Transmitter, which has to be 1/4 Lambda. Either the telescopic, or the 'Rubber Duck' style transmitter aerials will already be optimised, so leave these alone.

I didn't have the 55475 accessory units, but I think these also have a wire antenna as well. So if you do need to lengthen these, then do each one separately.

I reckon though, that you shouldn't have any issues with the brick garage, unless there is something metallic in the structure which attenuates your transmitter signal....
 
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Henri

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I’ve mine in a brick wall shed and it works ok. Standard wire antenna inside the shed. Works perfect, although I have a small garden so reception does not span a big distance. And the TX has the shorty rubber antenna.
 
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Gizzy

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And the TX has the shorty rubber antenna.

I actually swapped the telescopic one on mine for the rubber one. As I'm long sighted, often I couldn't see the silver aerial and I also found the balance was top heavy. I swapped aerials with Steve (Station Jade) of this parish.

This stopped me straining my wrist and poking my eye out.... o_O
 
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