What System control on your layout ?

[JimmyB]

It's one of the few systems that is constantly getting new features, very flexible, and high quality components. Yes, it's probably the most expensive, but i have way more invested in track and trains, so a one time cost is not too bad.

Basically their philosophy of adding features and considering customer feedback is head and shoulders above anything else I can buy.

I actually have 2 of the MX10, so that gives me 40 amps to distribute around the network (since you asked about "huge" layouts), so this allows me to have many locos on at the same time, since sound cards draw current while idling. I have a double-ended switchyard, so this capability of high current allows several locos to be active in the switchyard, and still have plenty of power for a couple trains on the mainline, which does indeed have some nasty grades, often a large train will pull 10 amps on the ruling grade, for about 60 feet.

Anyway, while not huge, I have had to work to find high current components, handle fair distances for wire runs, and need a large wireless coverage area, and with the house in the center it challenges other systems to perform, I previously used NCE, and had to have 3 wireless base stations to get coverage.

Hope this answers some of the questions you raised...

Greg

Greg, certainly makes what I have seem inferior.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Well, it is very expensive, so it should have more features, etc. My posting was not to beat my chest, but Simon did ask about "huge" layouts, and I really try to save up and buy the "end game" the first time if possible.

I knew I would be in a high current situation, with wireless challenges.

But I do use a fair number of the advanced features, and it's the only system that could put out 20 amps, and I was working my 10 amp system so hard you could not leave your hand on the case, that worries me, running anything flat out.

Regards, Greg

 

[Dan]

Zimo DCC MX1 and MX10 systems, plus an old LGB MTS serial only. ALso IO use the Aristocraft 27mhz and just plain DC as I repair and upgrade engines for many friends and trainli

 

[Steve Seidensticker]

All battery on my Gopher Canyon Line for 29 years. Nickel-Cadmium, the Nickel-Metal-Hydride, now Lithium-Ion. BlueRail and Airwire controllers. Mostly Soundtraxx decoders, but some TCS and ESU.

Steve

 

[chris m01]

I'm with Gavin on this. I still use the old Aristocraft train engineer. Not only do I control track power but I also control 10 points and two isolating switches from the one transmitter. It is still a brilliant piece of kit and it is a shame that nobody makes an equivalent today. The range of the remote control is fine, I can drive trains from my lounge even though the receiver is in m shed down the garden. These transmitters are so simple that even a three year old can operate them. I know this because my grandson did it when he was three. He is now four and has been seen training nanny in how to use it. Its simple, relatively cheap and it works well.

 

[Lez2000]

Another vote here for the Roco Z21 system although mine is used on my G scale layout (under 200 feet of track). I find it works very well using my iPad . However I've just discovered the 'joys' of live steam and radio control so that may be the future of my layout.
Les

 

[65 1057]

I started DCC track powered operation with the UHLENBROCK low cost command station w/ 2 Amps only. This was later extended with an 8 Amp Booster incl. Transformator, and 2 remote controllers.
I installed everything (including Loconet distributor, loading socket for remote controllers etc.) in a carrying case with external sockets, so I can do both: Programming indoor (sockets "P"), and connect to the track in the garden (sockets "8 A").
The blue-red connectors with "K" stand for Kehrschleife (reverse loop relais).

 

[JimmyB]

I started in 2018, with a basic LGB transformer and controller, and later move on to a Train Engineer, the newer one (not the Revolution) the 27 mHz with 10 sets of controls. However I found track cleaning a bind and I am slowly moving to battery power remote control, 3S LiPo and Deltang Rx/Tx, though a couple of track power left. I do have 1 live steam RH Fowler, and my original plan was to run live steam . However I have the TE for my point control, and I am still trying to determine how I will control my points when the TE goes. I have looked at both hard wire point motors to switches, but would prefer something mobile!!

 

[dunnyrail]

I started in 2018, with a basic LGB transformer and controller, and later move on to a Train Engineer, the newer one (not the Revolution) the 27 mHz with 10 sets of controls. However I found track cleaning a bind and I am slowly moving to battery power remote control, 3S LiPo and Deltang Rx/Tx, though a couple of track power left. I do have 1 live steam RH Fowler, and my original plan was to run live steam . However I have the TE for my point control, and I am still trying to determine how I will control my points when the TE goes. I have looked at both hard wire point motors to switches, but would prefer something mobile!!

Have you thought about Air, a Signal Box at each station would work just fine when you get your extension done, not the cheapest kid in the block to buy but oh so simple to set up.

 

[phils2um]

but would prefer something mobile!!

Hi Jimmy, have you thought about a cheap DCC setup with wifi just to drive points? You're set up for rail power already. You could use it to power your points. Dirty rails will not affect turnout operation and keeps your wiring/plumbing to a minimum.

 

[stockers]

Massoth DCC

 

[Homo Habilis]

I'm indoors using battery/RC controlled by RailBoss 4 on SVRR aluminum rail.

 

[Diesel2000]

I use a Massoth 1210z CS and 2.4Ghz wireless Navs for power and control, PSX circuit breakers and auto-reverser, and Massoth 4 channel switch decoders. I can switch over to analog DC on the rails, which is a G Scale Graphics Railboss Trackside wireless system and Meanwell 10amp power supply. The 20 turnouts are controlled by DCC only. The control board is in the basement and routes everything out to a junction box on the outside of the house where the wiring disperses to the layout, which is about 400ft of track. There is a programing track in the yard on the outdoor layout, as well on a workbench thats off to the side of the control panel. I use a wireless outlet control to turn power on/off so I dont have to go down to the basement.

 

[Nederhorst]

For my garden railway I use a ESU Ecos, the first version, which is still Up-to date thanks to the support forum of ESU.
It is compatible with LGB/ Massoth Motorolla, MFX and DCC decoders. The available 4 amps is enough for the small Layout I have.
I have two ESU radio controls and they are working pretty good.
To control switches and signals I use Littfinsky (LDT) decoders. Build in plastic boxes in the shed and greenhouse.

 

[Gizzy]

However I have the TE for my point control, and I am still trying to determine how I will control my points when the TE goes. I have looked at both hard wire point motors to switches, but would prefer something mobile!!

You could use an old MTS II and a Universal Remote, along with some 4 channel point decoders for points....

 

[JimmyB]

You could use an old MTS II and a Universal Remote, along with some 4 channel point decoders for points....

Sounds like an idea, but not sure where I would start.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Buy some spare TE hardware, then you never have to change. I recently bought enough decoders that my supply will outlast me.

Greg

 

[JimmyB]

Greg, the hand set is my issue, trying to find second hand ones is almost impossible are reasonable prices, the prices some go for is in triple figures just for a handset with unknown pedigree.

 

[Northsider]

R/C for live steam, Deltang for the battery locos. Rod & lever point control around Glen Auldyn (including a 5 metre run of rodding for the junction point); hand/toe of God elsewhere.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Jimmy, perhaps I can keep a watch out for what you want, oftentimes they are almost free if you wait a bit. I don't know the shipping to the UK, but there has to be a solution.

So you are looking for spare 10 channel TE's and either the 5474 or 5475? Which are you using? (later models had an extra 5 on the beginning).

Let me know, and I'll add it to my list of stuff to "watch for".

Greg