What is the use of track cleaning loco?

What is the use of track cleaning loco? Ah, er, to keep the track clean ???? Sorry, couldn't resist any longer.
 
I use a modified LGB bobber caboose(weighted)with the LGB abrasive pads,this weather brings out the little critters such as ants etc using the track tops as a highway,during running sessions at any hint of loco hesitation, it gets pulled round a few times every hour or so,keeps em running fine,after any long periods between sessions and track mucky,have to say abrasive block used to get em going ;) ;) ;)
 
Loco wheel cleaning - I use the 'Kadee' wheel cleaner - been about for years and available for all scales of track - powered locos. For those who have not used them before, they are a small hand - held wire brush (not too course ) with 2 isolated halves with wires attached and crocodile clips on the end. Simply attach clips to a suitable power supply ( I clip mine to my running rails and ramp-up the track power to about half way ) and apply tool to loco wheels - holding loco right way up so debris drops away. Wheels spin, wire brush cleans wheels, and with a little careful application, the backs of the wheels can be cleaned also.
Skates I give a little rub we scotch bite - the green pan - scouring stuff.
 
An interesting topic. I run a 4 wheeled freight wagon with sprung loaded cleaning pads either in a freight train or with coaches and it keeps things hunky dorry and tickety boo. I have also invested in a Massoth Central station at 7 watts and it is amazing the differance to LGB's usual 5. If it got really mucky I could try the 12 watts that is available.
 
I had a track cleaning loco, it was rubbish. Drove me nuts until I decided to mend it, so let's start at the sensible point i.e. the cheapest. I ordered a set of new polishing wheels (they aren't really wheels, they go between the real wheels and retaining discs) so when they arrived and I removed the extremely complicated cleaning mechanism (four cross-head screws) I was astounded to find that the supplier (no names mentioned, but they are in Holland and translate as 'large scale') had sold me a pup, the cleaning wheels on the loco were almost square, this explained the leaping around of the front end and lack of cleaning. I fitted the new cleaning wheels and Lo and Behold it was a completely different beastie.
I was almost happy but the damned thing kept dropping off some of it's details, I never found the horn from the roof.
It does say on the box that this loco will not work on a line fitted with a shuttle unit, however I had the shuttle unit in da shed behind the transformer with a switch between them: auto/off/manual. When set to manual the loco worked quite happily even though this was a branch line with a steep gradient although I had to stand and watch it ready to throw the reversing switch (Analogue with Gaugemaster transformers).
Fiiiinaly I cleaned all the points and station ends of the branch line with my trusty old Peco track cleaning rubber (currently sitting just to the right of the mouse) and something similar but bigger from a DIY shop.
So, a good buy? I would say yes but spend the extra few pennies on new cleaning wheels so you know you are good to go - the wheels are available from Muns as they are a Massoth straight swap.
:talking:
 
chasaitch said:
...If it got really mucky I could try the 12 watts that is available.
Click to expand...

I don't believe Increasing the maximum output current setting will affect ability to cope with dirty track. The loco can only draw the current it requires for the load it's hauling, restricted by high resistance of the dirty track and joints causing voltage drop.
 
ntpntpntp said:
I don't believe Increasing the maximum output current setting will affect ability to cope with dirty track. The loco can only draw the current it requires for the load it's hauling, restricted by high resistance of the dirty track and joints causing voltage drop.
Click to expand...

You will gat a bigger 'spark' to burn the crud off though!!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
I use a Kadee brush to clean really dirty wheels, but more for heavy crud or rust (Aristo diesel wheels are plated steel, the plating wears, the wheels rust)

For most cleaning, wet a thin cloth with a household ammonia-based cleaner and run one truck over it while the other truck picks up power, repeat for other end. My steamers have pickup from the tender also, so that works.

For unpowered wheels, a stainless wire brush in a dremel motor tool cleans them fast, and you can also detect if the wheels spin freely.

Greg
 
Mine worked fine on digital cleaning wheels went very fast loco relatively slow, a couple of circuits and job done
 
I use the track cleaning loco with weights on the front platform to stop the 'bobbing around'.
This helps to stop the 'striped' effect on the rails and also cleans well using less passes around the track.

After a long lay off with oxidation, slug slime, bird poo, tree sap and all the rest, I do the cleaning manually using a sanding block, similar to the LGB jobbie, on a pole. Points (turnouts) I do by hand.
 
Just run trains frequently. I really does seem to keep rails and loco reasonably clean. Metal, rather than plastic wheels also help. and Yes, I do have a track cleaner - it does what it says on the label.
 
It all just reminds of rail grinders - as in removing corrugations from track. I have seen (and purchased S/H) track that has been subject to track cleaners. In my own opinion, it only cleans by removing the layer of crud and the surface of the rail head. To me that is a grinder! Even polishing using metal polishes or buffing soap removes metal.

I suppose it all comes down to exercising caution. I use Kitchen wipes to clean track but also resort to those emery (fine) sponge blocks when tarnishing cannot be removed easily.
 
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