HobbitFertang
Registered
Have you bench tested them??
What happened at your workbench today?
- Thread starter Henri
- Start date
Fezwig
Just a man in the middle of a complicated plan.
Deep breaths and relax, railcar etchings project has started, so first job drawing and comparing between the Accucraft and Worsley works to come up with a design for the chassis. The thinking at the moment is a heavy chassis for the light weight body, unpowered at this stage of head scratching?
I have this back of an old oven, which could be a good starting point, though it being galvanised could make for hard work?
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Unpowered would mean that you wouldn't have the same problems as the prototype
View attachment 361169
I have this back of an old oven, which could be a good starting point, though it being galvanised could make for hard work?
if you're going to run a pair
Fezwig
Just a man in the middle of a complicated plan.
More or less finished with the drawings except for the power unit which will depend on if the Mauler chassis is suitable in running with the Accucraft railcar and can have it's wheel base extended or a new unpowered one made, anyway at least the wheels are the right size!
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Galvanised could be better -I think solder will take to the zinc better than steel. Or am I confusing galv with tinplate?
View attachment 361169
I have this back of an old oven, which could be a good starting point, though it being galvanised could make for hard work?
John Randall
Registered
Pete Just a reminder Galvanised fumes are poisonous and if you get Galvanised hot enough it will flare quite dramatically!
Fezwig
Just a man in the middle of a complicated plan.
Cheers John/ @Northsider at this point still floating ideas, I will more that likely solder some brass angle to the body side and bolt that to the galvanised base, my soldering skills need to be proved on the etched brass side joins before we go much further!!
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Brass is more difficult to solder than nickel silver because it conducts heat better.
You can get 145 degree solder for brass and there used to be a particular flux for brass - liquid flux has been more difficult to get of late, probably due to the tree huggers, but you used to be able to buy it mail order
The Yeti was a Worsley Works etch (albeit in nickel silver for the above reasons) but the kits don't come with tabs like some other brass kits as you will have discovered
. I used blue tac, and then tack soldered the joint until I was happy that it was fine and dandy, then I ran a fillet of solder down the joint ..................... that was quite a long time ago, possibly 20 years ago 
Fezwig
Just a man in the middle of a complicated plan.
Correct! As proven below, Mauler much too slow and gets dragged or shoved aroundUnpowered would mean that you wouldn't have the same problems as the prototype
so it looks like plan C, an unpowered trailer set up, by the way,
Plan A, was buy another Accucraft, expensive and virtually unobtainable.
Plan B the kit I have but motorised, but matching the motors/gears was always questionable unless I started from scratch and remotored the Accucraft one
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Well, once again @Fezwig inspired me to get out in the workshop! His winter railcar project sent me back to the possibly 16mm/ft railcar that I bought at the National, and more particularly the wheels that I bought as rough castings from Walsall Model Industries. I started machining them in the early spring, before life got in the way; I'm not certain that I have either the skill or the machinery to incorporate them into a working chassis, but thought that I would take them one step at a time until I hit a brick wall. So the first step was to turn them down to G1MRA standard thickness of 6mm: this meant removing the oversized backplate from the casting. Despite appearances, this was done at around 350rpm, taking 0.25mm off each time.
The wheels have two holes in them, which would require a special drill bit to break through the hard skin of the cast iron, so I took the easier option of turning a recess in the back of each wheel...
The final recess is 1.5mm deep.
The holes will need a bit of dressing with a Dremel, but so far, so good. The next stage is to turn up a mandrel so I can mount the wheels securely and cut the treads.
The wheels have two holes in them, which would require a special drill bit to break through the hard skin of the cast iron, so I took the easier option of turning a recess in the back of each wheel...
The final recess is 1.5mm deep.
The holes will need a bit of dressing with a Dremel, but so far, so good. The next stage is to turn up a mandrel so I can mount the wheels securely and cut the treads.
