Well, it's still early days, but it's outside!

Firstly, try to think what you want to achieve?
Just running trains (without thought to prototype) or something more 'formalised' (specific scale, period, and location).

Then think about how fast you are running your trains. - A Stainz would never have run at express speeds. - This can help with tight curves.

As others have said, flexitrack gives you the best transition, followed by larger radii settrack curves. - You can start with a larger radius, then tighten it up, but you will always have a 'kink' between the differing curves.

All LGB offerings will traverse LGB R1 curves.. The larger loco's and stock can look a little silly doing this, but if it is all you can fit in your allotted space, it is something you have to live with.
 
mike said:
It could be your power supply, or track connections. That can cause problems with smooth running,. As dfor the curves, try a larger cure, more gentle one. At the start of your curves/bends..then the R1s.. So R2, R1, R1, R1, R2 ect It looks better. And it runs smoother too.., but then it's how to fit it in.. View attachment 259011
I run R1s, R2s were I can.. But mostly r1 curves, with railclamps
Click to expand...
Yes, this has lead us into the serious business of transition curves - as used on the 1:1 railways.

If you were to take a length of flexi in one of the smaller gauges, and, without any pre-bending, lay the curve you wanted, it will naturally go to a transition curve.

As Mike said, you can, if you have space, achieve this with set track by starting large, going smaller to the apex, then going large again.

I have a mix of 8fts and 10 fts (plus a load of flexi for really volup generous curves) and even when a large loco is running on the 10ft curve, it doesn't have that suicidal death swerve that you get on the tighter radii.

So, 8ft for making things work, 10ft for getting it to look better - but only if you have the space. Otherwise, forget it and play trains with whatever radius will fit in your garden :nod::nod::nod:
 
I only use R1s and I can't say I've noticed my locos "throw" themselves into the curves. What speed are you running them at?
 
playmofire said:
I only use R1s and I can't say I've noticed my locos "throw" themselves into the curves. What speed are you running them at?
Click to expand...
It's probably more noticeable with larger locos with either a pony truck or leading bogie - and yes, there's some poetic licence and Clarksonism in the description ;);)

Like you, I try to run my trains at a prototypical speed, but even at those speeds, you can detect a noticeable turn into the curve rather than the more gentle snaking of a 1:1 train.
 
Rhinochugger said:
I think Gizzy is the master of that little trick - and from memory, he straightened them for use in sidings
Click to expand...

Yep I've done likewise with a few boxes of R1s. Just a matter of cutting sleepers and straightening the rail.

No special jigs or tools required. Straightened my rails by smacking them with a hammer on a paving slab. Vice works too :D

Procedure as follows (Do the job with pairs of R1's to give you an even number of straightened rails).

Take the fishplates off (probably the hardest bit).
Unthread the rails from the sleepers
Cut between the sleeper sections on the inside curve
Straighten out the rails with your weapons of choice
Pair off the straightened rails (you'll have two longer and two shorter - assuming using 2 x R1's)
Rethread your "straight" rails through the sleeper sections
Pop fishplates back on if not too badly damaged, or use new ones, or use your choice of rail clamp.

I've since replaced my straightened R1's on the outdoor line but still keep them for the end to end seasonal train that I run in December (phew avoided the C word), and will probably use them for a small indoor shunting layout in the mancave. They were laid outside for around 3 years and gave me no trouble.
 
Rhinochugger said:
I think Gizzy is the master of that little trick - and from memory, he straightened them for use in sidings
Click to expand...
I re-radiused a few to R2, using my B&D Workmate.

I've since acquired a rail bender/straightener....
 
Lez - Congratulations on your beginning! Let me reiterate what Mike and Gavin pointed out. Having something to "play" with was very important to me as I began my RR. After years of dreaming I only really got into actual construction after putting down a rather simple loop. Just having a train running outside inspired me to continue expanding my "empire". I, too, look forward to seeing your RR progress.
 
PhilP said:
Firstly, try to think what you want to achieve?
Just running trains (without thought to prototype) or something more 'formalised' (specific scale, period, and location).

Then think about how fast you are running your trains. - A Stainz would never have run at express speeds. - This can help with tight curves.

As others have said, flexitrack gives you the best transition, followed by larger radii settrack curves. - You can start with a larger radius, then tighten it up, but you will always have a 'kink' between the differing curves.

All LGB offerings will traverse LGB R1 curves.. The larger loco's and stock can look a little silly doing this, but if it is all you can fit in your allotted space, it is something you have to live with.
Click to expand...
At the moment all of my locos are Stainz and only run at about 2/3rds speed, any faster and it doesn’t look right to me. I’ve acquired a few lengths of flexi track but they’re not being used while the layout is on the lawn.
Les.
 
phils2um said:
Lez - Congratulations on your beginning! Let me reiterate what Mike and Gavin pointed out. Having something to "play" with was very important to me as I began my RR. After years of dreaming I only really got into actual construction after putting down a rather simple loop. Just having a train running outside inspired me to continue expanding my "empire". I, too, look forward to seeing your RR progress.
Click to expand...
Indeed, my train of thought (sorry about that) is pretty much on the same lines (oh dear) as yours; it’s great to get something running instead of just sitting in the box.
 
3Valve said:
Yep I've done likewise with a few boxes of R1s. Just a matter of cutting sleepers and straightening the rail.

No special jigs or tools required. Straightened my rails by smacking them with a hammer on a paving slab. Vice works too :D

Procedure as follows (Do the job with pairs of R1's to give you an even number of straightened rails).

Take the fishplates off (probably the hardest bit).
Unthread the rails from the sleepers
Cut between the sleeper sections on the inside curve
Straighten out the rails with your weapons of choice
Pair off the straightened rails (you'll have two longer and two shorter - assuming using 2 x R1's)
Rethread your "straight" rails through the sleeper sections
Pop fishplates back on if not too badly damaged, or use new ones, or use your choice of rail clamp.

I've since replaced my straightened R1's on the outdoor line but still keep them for the end to end seasonal train that I run in December (phew avoided the C word), and will probably use them for a small indoor shunting layout in the mancave. They were laid outside for around 3 years and gave me no trouble.
Click to expand...
Excellent, thank you; I’ll have a play with a couple of curves I’ve got lying around. Should be quite therapeutic!
Les.
 
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playmofire said:
I only use R1s and I can't say I've noticed my locos "throw" themselves into the curves. What speed are you running them at?
Click to expand...
I only run them at around 2/3rds speed (original LGB controller) but even then there isn’t a smooth turn into the curve. Maybe they’re not throwing themselves into the curve but I would prefer a more gradual turn. Still, when I eventually start on the ’final’ layout I can sort it then!
Les.
 
I have a large layout in a trailer (roughly 21ft x 6ft) - all with R1 curves (including reverse curves) and points. I mainly use Bachmann "Big Haulers" as motive power and suffer problems with the pony trucks derailing. What I have done, to help alleviate this problem, is to add some super elevation to the outside rail of the curves. This seems to help a great deal (coupled with adding lead weights to the pony trucks). I also use R1's on a part of my garden line with the same cures.
 
trammayo said:
I have a large layout in a trailer (roughly 21ft x 6ft) - all with R1 curves (including reverse curves) and points. I mainly use Bachmann "Big Haulers" as motive power and suffer problems with the pony trucks derailing. What I have done, to help alleviate this problem, is to add some super elevation to the outside rail of the curves. This seems to help a great deal (coupled with adding lead weights to the pony trucks). I also use R1's on a part of my garden line with the same cures.
Click to expand...
Yes, I’ve slightly elevated the outside of the curves as the grass isn’t as flat as I’d like. I expect I’ll do the same when I get around to laying the ‘permanent’ layout.
Les.
 
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