Well, it's still early days, but it's outside!

L

Lez2000

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2 Oct 2019
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Since I joined the group in early October, I've spent a lot of time buying track, both old and new and of different makes. I've also purchased a couple of used Stainz locos, one of which (LGB Otto) needs a bit of tlc as it seems to stutter when on the move.

At the moment I'm still in the very early planning stage but felt the need to actually 'have a play' outside before the weather becomes too inclement. Hence the following:
137120_7fd9c674aa9a6b2eed3f27cc94ed07c6.jpg


137124_95dad702e067fc649934eece01354ab0.jpg

As you can see, it isn't ideal but it works. Eventually the track will run along the flower beds on the left, across the top and circle around the slate bed just behind the potted Christmas tree just right of centre.

One thing I have noticed is how tight the R1 curves are; I think I may have to acquire some larger radius curves for the 'final' layout. Watch this space.
 
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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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One thing I have noticed is how tight the R1 curves are; I think I may have acquire some larger radius curves for the 'final' layout. Watch this space.
[/QUOTE]

R1s are very tight and can be limiting unless you stay with LGB locos and rolling stock.

The perceived wisdom is that, if you have sufficient space, R3 is a good minimum radius that will allow you to run most G scale manufacturers' models. (R3 can still be a bit tight for Gauge 1)

But the most important bit is to get some trains running :nod::nod::nod:
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

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Lez, I only started last year, and as most novices I bought R1, and laid a few (gladly not too many), they have all been removed though I still have an R2 (equivalent) in place do to space (even in a garden), I now use LGB R3/Piko R5 throughout.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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North West Norfolk
Lez, I only started last year, and as most novices I bought R1, and laid a few (gladly not too many), they have all been removed though I still have an R2 (equivalent) in place do to space (even in a garden), I now use LGB R3/Piko R5 throughout.
I should have added, that it's one of the few times in my life that I have taken and heeded advice :devil::devil::devil:
 
L

Lez2000

Registered
2 Oct 2019
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Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
Lez, I only started last year, and as most novices I bought R1, and laid a few (gladly not too many), they have all been removed though I still have an R2 (equivalent) in place do to space (even in a garden), I now use LGB R3/Piko R5 throughout.
Yes, it's only when you actually lay and use them you realise how restrictive they can be. That said, they'll probably end up on sidings.
Les
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

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23 Feb 2018
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Yes, it's only when you actually lay and use them you realise how restrictive they can be. That said, they'll probably end up on sidings.
Les
Les, though most LGB stock will run on R1 most others do not like R1 reverse curves (which is the main reason I removed mine), so unsure if there is a benefit in sidings.
 
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Lez2000

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Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
Les, though most LGB stock will run on R1 most others do not like R1 reverse curves (which is the main reason I removed mine), so unsure if there is a benefit in sidings.
Hmm, okay, there's a thread somewhere about straightening R1 curves and re-using them as straights or maybe I'll just sell 'em.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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North West Norfolk
Hmm, okay, there's a thread somewhere about straightening R1 curves and re-using them as straights or maybe I'll just sell 'em.
I think Gizzy is the master of that little trick - and from memory, he straightened them for use in sidings
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
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Hmm, okay, there's a thread somewhere about straightening R1 curves and re-using them as straights or maybe I'll just sell 'em.
I have kept mine, cleaned them up as an indoor (as required) test circuit, didn't bother straightening them, seemed too much like hard work for little return.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
25,800
765
North West Norfolk
I have kept mine, cleaned them up as an indoor (as required) test circuit, didn't bother straightening them, seemed too much like hard work for little return.
I've just ordered some plastic ones for under da tree (if I'm allowed :worried::worried: ) I have a couple of small battery locos that could pull something ;);)
 
mike

mike

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Fantastic, you've made it into the garden.. And, got track, and started running trains, it's the best way, as you've discovered, to realise its different on the ground, than in a box,
Keep it up. Looking forward to seeing more
 
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Lez2000

Registered
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Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
Fantastic, you've made it into the garden.. And, got track, and started running trains, it's the best way, as you've discovered, to realise its different on the ground, than in a box,
Keep it up. Looking forward to seeing more
Thanks, only regret so far is I wish I’d discovered G scale 10 years ago!
 
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maxi-model

maxi-model

UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
27 Oct 2009
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Yay ! Crossing on the flat. That's the way to do it. Looking good there Lez. Endless fun when you get a few live steamers around for a run :D Max
 
L

Lez2000

Registered
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Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
Yay ! Crossing on the flat. That's the way to do it. Looking good there Lez. Endless
Hi Max, as much as I’d love a live steamer, they ( notice, not that) will have to wait a while until funds permit! Unless, of course, I come across a bargain somewhere.
Les.
 
Gavin Sowry

Gavin Sowry

Garden Railroader and Raconteur
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I've been in the game 20 years. I run trains (seperately) from most of the main manufacturers, in 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, and 7/8ths scales... and it's all on R1 curves. I put out structures appropriate to the scale I'm running on the day. And, still track power too. It can be done.

Posted in the interests of confusing the confused.
 
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L

Lez2000

Registered
2 Oct 2019
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Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
I've been in the game 20 years. I run trains (seperately) from most of the main manufacturers, in 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, and 7/8ths scales... and it's all on R1 curves. I put out structures appropriate to the scale I'm running on the day. And, still track power too. It can be done.

Posted in the interests of confusing the confused.
Thanks Gavin, as I said in another reply, 'I wish I'd come across G scale 10 years ago!'
My main issue with the R1 curves is even at low speeds the locos I've got (Stainz) appear to throw themselves into the bend rather than entering smoothly. I'm still rather new at this so any suggestions for smoothing the transition from straight to curve would be appreciated.

Les.
 
Gavin Sowry

Gavin Sowry

Garden Railroader and Raconteur
27 Oct 2009
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319
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Hutt Valley, NZ
Thanks Gavin, as I said in another reply, 'I wish I'd come across G scale 10 years ago!'
My main issue with the R1 curves is even at low speeds the locos I've got (Stainz) appear to throw themselves into the bend rather than entering smoothly. I'm still rather new at this so any suggestions for smoothing the transition from straight to curve would be appreciated.

Les.

My usual advice, start small, get something down, and start running. Get used to the hobby basics, then start listening to the advanced advice, expand, and have fun. I've seen many a potential convert try to start with grandeous plans, with all the bells and whistles, only to get bogged down in stuff they don't understand, can't get to work, and then delight others by offering it all on e-bay (which, by the way is one place to get some good deals).
 
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mike

mike

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It could be your power supply, or track connections. That can cause problems with smooth running,. As dfor the curves, try a larger cure, more gentle one. At the start of your curves/bends..then the R1s.. So R2, R1, R1, R1, R2 ect It looks better. And it runs smoother too.., but then it's how to fit it in..
137182_affdd2a7235d71556aa10d55c436ef36.jpg

I run R1s, R2s were I can.. But mostly r1 curves, with railclamps
 
maxi-model

maxi-model

UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
27 Oct 2009
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If you want transitional curves, then as mentioned above with the use of setrack with fixed radii, consider starting with and R1 (if you must), then R2 .R3 finishing with R5. Problem with that approach is that you might start to get into problems with your track's overall geometry and trying to get all the ends to join up where you want them. You might want to look at flexi track as a solution to the transitional curve issue for the future. As well as possibly giving your line a more "natural" feel and making it easier to all fit together it will give you greater flexibility as to how you approach developing your line in the future.

If you want to get away from the appearance of a loco "throwing itself into" a curve then you are going to have to look at more generous radii than those offered by R1 or even R2. That will again benefit you as your interest develops and tastes move towards stock that require that more open environment to work without derailing. Max