Ruby's O cylinder rings

[Sarah Winfield]

I would welcome seeing the original thread as I understand there were a number of pictures that might include dismantling the cylinders.
Thanks if anyone can help, please.
Sarah

 

[Greg Elmassian]

The link was in the post.... I just tried and it works.

Cannot agree "lots of photos", only 7 posts in that thread.

Perhaps Pete is referencing a different thread?

Greg

 

[Fred2179G]

Vance Bass rebuilt one a few years ago and posted lots of photos:
Stripping down and rebuilding an Accucraft "Ruby"
He says in the thread in 2020 he had a spare set of cylinders.

Sarah, that's a link in pale blue to the thread.

 

[Fred2179G]

Cannot agree "lots of photos", only 7 posts in that thread.

Picky, picky. 7 is a lot, compared with the photos on this thread!

 

[Greg Elmassian]

she asked for pictures on dismantling

There is only one picture with the cylinders off the loco, and they are not dismantled.

So, just "truth in advertising"....

for the google-impaired:

 

[Fred2179G]

just "truth in advertising"....

Good catch, but I don't think Sarah needs a full dismantle. To get at the O-rings you just need to remove the cylinder cap that the piston rod goes through.

I just did a Regner Else which is very similar. It has teflon pistons - Sarah's will be brass with an O-ring in a groove. I did it on an old towel so the parts stayed instead of bouncing on the floor, and I used an old empty margarine pot to put them in as I took them off.

More Regner Else and no water

Sarah, it really is that simple. Just remove the connecting rod, remove the bolts carefully, and slide it out.

 

[Northsider]

Just remove the connecting rod, remove the bolts carefully, and slide it out.

I agree. You might want a smear of oil/silicone lubricant on the O-ring to ease getting the piston back into the cylinder.

 

[Paul M]

I agree. You might want a smear of oil/silicone lubricant on the O-ring to ease getting the piston back into the cylinder.

Wouldn't steam oil be best?

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Wouldn't steam oil be best?

Thanks. I watched the dismantling procedure all the way through. I wonder if the locomotive ever steamed again?
I wouldn't dare go that far and use that amount of force.

 

[Fred2179G]

Wouldn't steam oil be best?

Not usually suggested, though I imagine it would work just as well.

 

[Fred2179G]

I watched the dismantling procedure all the way through. I wonder if the locomotive ever steamed again?
I wouldn't dare go that far and use that amount of force.

I wonder too, but I wouldn't worry about the force required. I've seen these dropped on the floor with nothing but cosmetic damage.
For your project, removing the end cap on the cylinder, you have only to worry about the bolts. They are brass, and therefore much weaker than the usual steel. Don't over tighten them - you can always give them a bit more if there are leaks. And be careful removing them so you don't bend one. The good news is that replacements should be easy to find; I have several stashes from various locos.

 

[Paul M]

Not usually suggested, though I imagine it would work just as well.

I've always thought that putting anything other than steam oil in a cylinder was a bit risky.

 

[JimmyB]

I've always thought that putting anything other than steam oil in a cylinder was a bit risky.

I find it is always best to err on the cautious side if unsure, and steam oil would seem the natural choice.

 

[Fred2179G]

anything other than steam oil in a cylinder was a bit risky.

I don't think it matters with brass and Teflon, or silicon. Its just to ease the ring in the cylinder and probably gets scoured out as soon as the steam comes in.
The graphite string I used in a 25 yr old Aster might not like it.