Mr. Spock's scissors crossover.
- Thread starter Westcott
- Start date
I think that this is the original build thread for the cross-over Hamish.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=72675&high=spock
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=72675&high=spock
[align=center]Thanks for the interest,
I have not built anymore track work since that one , but I am planning some curved turnouts next,
the crossing has been outside now for a few months and is working well.
I painted the rails with varnish paint to look rusty and it had toned dowm now it looked like spaggetti for a while.
regards pete
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I have not built anymore track work since that one , but I am planning some curved turnouts next,
the crossing has been outside now for a few months and is working well.
I painted the rails with varnish paint to look rusty and it had toned dowm now it looked like spaggetti for a while.
regards pete
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Thanks for the link and the pictures.
Must have a try at making a 'simple' turnout myself.
Now, where to get brass code 250 ?
Must have a try at making a 'simple' turnout myself.
Now, where to get brass code 250 ?
Westcott said:
Might be worth talking to Steve at Back2Bay6, as he can get the Sunset Valley Code 250 Rail, which is available in Aluminium as well as Brass....
I rebuilt my line this year with code 250 Stainless steel track from MiHa-Modell + in Germany. It turned out to be an excellent product. You can buy the rail profile in up to 3M lengths. It is cheaper than Llagas Creek I believe.
http://www.miha-modell.com/shop/ind...tikel.htm?kat=Code250-Gleis-Selbstbau-Profile < Link To
Profile
http://www.miha-modell.com/shop/ind...tikel.htm?kat=Code250-Gleis-Selbstbau-Profile < Link To
Wonderful trackwork.
I'd be interested to know:
1. is the rail brass?
2. how did you make the switch blades. Did you file them or mill them?
Terry
I'd be interested to know:
1. is the rail brass?
2. how did you make the switch blades. Did you file them or mill them?
Terry
[align=center]If you try Marcway in Sheffields they keep stocks of rail various materials, I always use N/Silver as its easier to solder, Cliff Barker also stocks rail, and I think GRS do,
the bigger profile can be spiked as well.
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the bigger profile can be spiked as well.
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TerrySoham said:
[align=center]Hi this is N/Silver but brass would work,
I use code 200 same as the 16mm ngauge profile, and the point noses are ready made from Peco, they also sell the point blades but these I make myself as I just file them, it takes less than a minute to file the rebate.
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Westcott said:
[align=center]I hate soldering brass, N/S is o easy to work with and will stay cleaner longer , no other special things a re needed, it costs a little more than brass, but has more strength, for the templates I use two right and two left then join the rail ends up, A ten foot is printed on the box lid of a Peco point,
Pete
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