John Carmichael
Registered
Suggested Step-by-Step Construction Instructions: (cont.)
12) Install the Posts: The first posts you install should be spaced 6 feet apart. I advise against using ugly and weak PCV plumbing pipe. Although PVC pipe is less expensive, it is flexible and round so it doesn't attach flush to the flat surfaces of the stringers and brownies and it’s not UV protected. The 1.5" x 1.5" (actual) composite stock used for the brownies is ideal for sturdy posts that support the stringers at their proper elevation. Even if the stringers themselves will be buried under the ballast or are at ground level, short posts will help secure them. Before installation, I recommend screwing a 6” long piece of 1” x 6” composite decking board (like Trex) to the bottom of the posts especially if the posts will not be replaced by trestles. You can buy composite deck boards at Home Depot. Use 3” deck screws to attach the foundation boards to the posts. These will keep the posts stationary. Posts should be buried about 6 inches deep in mild climates like Tucson where there is no frost heave. Otherwise, they should be buried deeper. Place the posts through the gaps in the ladder between the brownies so that they are perfectly vertical. Don’t fill in the holes with dirt yet because you may need to adjust the post height later.
13) Elevate the Roadbed: Use clamps to temporarily attach stringer ladder to posts spaced 6 ft. apart. Using the clamps, raise the roadbed so that it has the proper slope and elevation. It’s handy to have some pieces of bricks and/or rebar and clamps available to temporarily help in raising the roadbed. As you raise it, make sure all posts stay vertical. If you have very high sections, you may have to gradually raise parts of the roadbed in stages by clamping, unclamping and re-clamping to its final height. Gradually raising the roadbed prevents excessive vertical stress on the plastic stringers. Check the elevation every six feet where every post is. My homemade Archimedes type clear ½” rubber hose water level was indispensable for elevation determination. I established a base point at the lowest elevation of the roadbed from which I could measure the elevation of any point on the roadbed using a clear 50 foot water-filled hose tied to rebar. After you raise the roadbed to its proper height, don’t allow any post to extend above the roadbed. Protruding posts need to be buried deeper, replaced, or cut off. When the elevations and slopes are absolutely correct, use 1 5/8" Deck Screws to attach the posts to stringers. Always pre-drill pilot holes in everything and make sure the screw goes through the stringer to the center of the brownie behind it. If you make a mistake, you can easily correct it by removing screws and re-screwing.
14) Add more Posts or Trestles: Now you need to strengthen the roadbed with more posts or trestles. The current 6 foot spacing too weak and far apart. Posts or trestles must be placed 2 feet apart or less. This spacing provides enough strength for the heaviest of trains. With posts every six feet, there is some stringer sagging between them which you’ll need to correct as you add more posts or trestles. Carpenters levels, long and short, are great for fine tuning the slope and finding dips. When the elevations and slopes are absolutely correct, use 1 5/8" Deck Screws to attach the posts to stringers. The roadbed is now fully assembled. Soak the ground around the posts with water to bond the soil to the post foundations. This will harden the soil around the post foundations after it dries. (Tucson soil is like cement when it dries!) If you plan on later replacing the posts with trestles, the leftover composite post material can be reused on the bottom horizontal part of the trestle bents that touches the ground (to avoid rot & termites). Give the roadbed a final inspection, tighten loose screws and fix abnormalities. Clean off all the mud and dirt with a good hose washing, but don’t spatter more mud on it with the hose. Let dry thoroughly.
15) Paint the Roadbed: When it’s passed inspection and is clean and dry, it is time to paint the ladder stringer roadbed assembly. The plastic ladder must be painted to further protect the plastic from the sun’s UV. Use three even coats of Krylon spray paint for plastics. It goes on best on a cool morning with no wind. I used one coat of primer followed by two coats of camouflage ultra-flat brown. It’s not necessary to paint the posts unless it’s for aesthetic reasons.
16) Install Rails and Ties: Note that the roadbed is exactly the same width as the ties so there is no overhang. Flex ties and Flex rails are the easiest to install and permit graduated and non-standard curves. You can use a rail bender on a nearby work table to get an approximate curve on a piece of track. Then you can put the track section on the roadbed and use the rail bender again to get the exact curve. Bending the rails is easy once you get the hang of it. It only took me a week to bend and install all my track (380 ft.). Attach ties to the top of ladder stringers using 1” # 6 pan head stainless steel screws. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through ties into the stringers. Screw ties to top of 3/4" stringers about every 18 inches using thin 1” long stainless steel sheet metal screws with a round head. I used Split-Jaw rail joiners almost everywhere with great success.
17) DONE! Now you can test the track and run your trains.
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Suppliers of HDPE and PVC Flexible Plastic Lumber:
I can’t personally recommend any of these businesses or products except for flexible PVC called Trex Trim, which is similar to HDPE. I list these suppliers because the product info on their websites seems suitable. Call for price quotes, samples and delivery information. The HDPE or HDPVC lumber must be very flexible and non-structural and should have UV protection. Wood grain is preferred. Do not use fiber and resin composite lumber - It is structural, not flexible. Both HDPE and PVC are available in colors and in smooth or with textured wood grains on one side. The final cut size of the stringers’ two sides must be .75” thick x 1.75” wide. Wider stock should be ripped into 1.75” strips. It would be most convenient to buy stringer lumber that is already cut to the final size and to have it delivered. If not, you’ll need a table saw for ripping and/or a big truck for hauling. Home Depot and Lowes DO NOT carry HDPE, PVC or composite stock of the right size. But they do have the 1 5/8” Everbuilt deck screws. You’ll need to find your flexible plastic lumber somewhere else. Call these suppliers for price quotes, samples and delivery information.
1) Trex trim brochure - Trex Inc. - PDF Catalogs | Documentation | Brochures
TrexTrim is the material I used. It is PVC lumber but is very similar in all ways to HDPE lumber. It’s very flexible. I bought this size: SKU: WW010618B. This measures: 3.4” thick x 5.50” wide x 18 ft. long (actual). It’s white with wood grains. I had the supplier rip each board into 1.75” strips for the stringers. Wider boards are available but all will need ripping. The supplier delivered the ripped strips to my home on a big long flatbed truck for a small fee. Apparently, there are several other suppliers of TrexTrim. Hopefully, you can find a local supplier.
1) Premium Grade Plastic Lumber | Recycled Plastic Wood Decking (Norristown, PA)
Use their “PREMIUM HDPE” grade. Nominal size: the 1 X 6″ X 12′ or 16′ (sku: pl-pg-1x6) can be ripped into three 16ft. stringers that are 1.75” wide and ¾” thick. The 16ft. is preferable. Many colors are available. Actual size- Thickness: 3/4″, Width: 5 1/2″, Length: 16’
2) Premium Non-structural Lumber | American Plastic Lumber (Shingle Springs, CA)
Colors and wood grain available. Use their Premium – Non Structural Lumber. 3/4” x 1 3/4” (0.75” x 1.75” actual)- perfect size- no ripping needed! Maximum length information is unavailable. Ask them for the longest size possible. Looks perfect if the length is long.
3) Homepage
They say they’ll custom-make any size, any shape, and any length! Seems too good to be true.
Suppliers of Structural Composite Lumber for Brownies and Posts:
This lumber should be structural resin and fiber composite and have an actual size of 1.5” x 1.5” (often sold as 2”x 2” (nominal size). Note: Home Depot, Lowes do not have the proper size of composite lumber for brownies & posts. (actual; 2” x 2” x 8ft. or 12ft.). I was unable to locate a good supplier without further investigation. You need to do your own homework to find this product.
1) Homepage
Website is not clear. Requires investigation
2) Composite Wood Fencing & Fence Boards from Lumberock (Elgin, Illinois)
Website is not clear. Requires investigation
12) Install the Posts: The first posts you install should be spaced 6 feet apart. I advise against using ugly and weak PCV plumbing pipe. Although PVC pipe is less expensive, it is flexible and round so it doesn't attach flush to the flat surfaces of the stringers and brownies and it’s not UV protected. The 1.5" x 1.5" (actual) composite stock used for the brownies is ideal for sturdy posts that support the stringers at their proper elevation. Even if the stringers themselves will be buried under the ballast or are at ground level, short posts will help secure them. Before installation, I recommend screwing a 6” long piece of 1” x 6” composite decking board (like Trex) to the bottom of the posts especially if the posts will not be replaced by trestles. You can buy composite deck boards at Home Depot. Use 3” deck screws to attach the foundation boards to the posts. These will keep the posts stationary. Posts should be buried about 6 inches deep in mild climates like Tucson where there is no frost heave. Otherwise, they should be buried deeper. Place the posts through the gaps in the ladder between the brownies so that they are perfectly vertical. Don’t fill in the holes with dirt yet because you may need to adjust the post height later.
13) Elevate the Roadbed: Use clamps to temporarily attach stringer ladder to posts spaced 6 ft. apart. Using the clamps, raise the roadbed so that it has the proper slope and elevation. It’s handy to have some pieces of bricks and/or rebar and clamps available to temporarily help in raising the roadbed. As you raise it, make sure all posts stay vertical. If you have very high sections, you may have to gradually raise parts of the roadbed in stages by clamping, unclamping and re-clamping to its final height. Gradually raising the roadbed prevents excessive vertical stress on the plastic stringers. Check the elevation every six feet where every post is. My homemade Archimedes type clear ½” rubber hose water level was indispensable for elevation determination. I established a base point at the lowest elevation of the roadbed from which I could measure the elevation of any point on the roadbed using a clear 50 foot water-filled hose tied to rebar. After you raise the roadbed to its proper height, don’t allow any post to extend above the roadbed. Protruding posts need to be buried deeper, replaced, or cut off. When the elevations and slopes are absolutely correct, use 1 5/8" Deck Screws to attach the posts to stringers. Always pre-drill pilot holes in everything and make sure the screw goes through the stringer to the center of the brownie behind it. If you make a mistake, you can easily correct it by removing screws and re-screwing.
14) Add more Posts or Trestles: Now you need to strengthen the roadbed with more posts or trestles. The current 6 foot spacing too weak and far apart. Posts or trestles must be placed 2 feet apart or less. This spacing provides enough strength for the heaviest of trains. With posts every six feet, there is some stringer sagging between them which you’ll need to correct as you add more posts or trestles. Carpenters levels, long and short, are great for fine tuning the slope and finding dips. When the elevations and slopes are absolutely correct, use 1 5/8" Deck Screws to attach the posts to stringers. The roadbed is now fully assembled. Soak the ground around the posts with water to bond the soil to the post foundations. This will harden the soil around the post foundations after it dries. (Tucson soil is like cement when it dries!) If you plan on later replacing the posts with trestles, the leftover composite post material can be reused on the bottom horizontal part of the trestle bents that touches the ground (to avoid rot & termites). Give the roadbed a final inspection, tighten loose screws and fix abnormalities. Clean off all the mud and dirt with a good hose washing, but don’t spatter more mud on it with the hose. Let dry thoroughly.
15) Paint the Roadbed: When it’s passed inspection and is clean and dry, it is time to paint the ladder stringer roadbed assembly. The plastic ladder must be painted to further protect the plastic from the sun’s UV. Use three even coats of Krylon spray paint for plastics. It goes on best on a cool morning with no wind. I used one coat of primer followed by two coats of camouflage ultra-flat brown. It’s not necessary to paint the posts unless it’s for aesthetic reasons.
16) Install Rails and Ties: Note that the roadbed is exactly the same width as the ties so there is no overhang. Flex ties and Flex rails are the easiest to install and permit graduated and non-standard curves. You can use a rail bender on a nearby work table to get an approximate curve on a piece of track. Then you can put the track section on the roadbed and use the rail bender again to get the exact curve. Bending the rails is easy once you get the hang of it. It only took me a week to bend and install all my track (380 ft.). Attach ties to the top of ladder stringers using 1” # 6 pan head stainless steel screws. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through ties into the stringers. Screw ties to top of 3/4" stringers about every 18 inches using thin 1” long stainless steel sheet metal screws with a round head. I used Split-Jaw rail joiners almost everywhere with great success.
17) DONE! Now you can test the track and run your trains.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Suppliers of HDPE and PVC Flexible Plastic Lumber:
I can’t personally recommend any of these businesses or products except for flexible PVC called Trex Trim, which is similar to HDPE. I list these suppliers because the product info on their websites seems suitable. Call for price quotes, samples and delivery information. The HDPE or HDPVC lumber must be very flexible and non-structural and should have UV protection. Wood grain is preferred. Do not use fiber and resin composite lumber - It is structural, not flexible. Both HDPE and PVC are available in colors and in smooth or with textured wood grains on one side. The final cut size of the stringers’ two sides must be .75” thick x 1.75” wide. Wider stock should be ripped into 1.75” strips. It would be most convenient to buy stringer lumber that is already cut to the final size and to have it delivered. If not, you’ll need a table saw for ripping and/or a big truck for hauling. Home Depot and Lowes DO NOT carry HDPE, PVC or composite stock of the right size. But they do have the 1 5/8” Everbuilt deck screws. You’ll need to find your flexible plastic lumber somewhere else. Call these suppliers for price quotes, samples and delivery information.
1) Trex trim brochure - Trex Inc. - PDF Catalogs | Documentation | Brochures
TrexTrim is the material I used. It is PVC lumber but is very similar in all ways to HDPE lumber. It’s very flexible. I bought this size: SKU: WW010618B. This measures: 3.4” thick x 5.50” wide x 18 ft. long (actual). It’s white with wood grains. I had the supplier rip each board into 1.75” strips for the stringers. Wider boards are available but all will need ripping. The supplier delivered the ripped strips to my home on a big long flatbed truck for a small fee. Apparently, there are several other suppliers of TrexTrim. Hopefully, you can find a local supplier.
1) Premium Grade Plastic Lumber | Recycled Plastic Wood Decking (Norristown, PA)
Use their “PREMIUM HDPE” grade. Nominal size: the 1 X 6″ X 12′ or 16′ (sku: pl-pg-1x6) can be ripped into three 16ft. stringers that are 1.75” wide and ¾” thick. The 16ft. is preferable. Many colors are available. Actual size- Thickness: 3/4″, Width: 5 1/2″, Length: 16’
2) Premium Non-structural Lumber | American Plastic Lumber (Shingle Springs, CA)
Colors and wood grain available. Use their Premium – Non Structural Lumber. 3/4” x 1 3/4” (0.75” x 1.75” actual)- perfect size- no ripping needed! Maximum length information is unavailable. Ask them for the longest size possible. Looks perfect if the length is long.
3) Homepage
They say they’ll custom-make any size, any shape, and any length! Seems too good to be true.
Suppliers of Structural Composite Lumber for Brownies and Posts:
This lumber should be structural resin and fiber composite and have an actual size of 1.5” x 1.5” (often sold as 2”x 2” (nominal size). Note: Home Depot, Lowes do not have the proper size of composite lumber for brownies & posts. (actual; 2” x 2” x 8ft. or 12ft.). I was unable to locate a good supplier without further investigation. You need to do your own homework to find this product.
1) Homepage
Website is not clear. Requires investigation
2) Composite Wood Fencing & Fence Boards from Lumberock (Elgin, Illinois)
Website is not clear. Requires investigation
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