LGB Mikado DCC questions

[whatlep]

Be interesting to see how it gets on on the old Pootank Pass .

I'm hoping it has as much traction as a skiier on a glacier

Not unless its number is 2091. It weighs 7.4Kg!

 

[Gizzy]

Dont want to scaremonger, *but* if Dave's Mikado is indeed an early production run (it may be if it has no decoder factory-fitted), just be aware that I've read there were problems reported with the drivetrain on some of the early ones - to the extent that the mech was modified and hopefully most early locos recalled and refitted. I think it was a problem that affected the ability to run round R1 curves, and the drivetrain actually failed in some cases.

Sincerely hope Dave's new beastie isn't one of these. Go easy with it!!

I see Dave has been running this on analogue. As he has a Class 66, I guess he doesn't have any r1/r2 curves and at least r3, so hopefully he'll have no problems.

If it is one of the recalled modded ones, would LGB have put a sticker underneath to confirm it has been done?

 

[ntpntpntp]

If it is one of the recalled modded ones, would LGB have put a sticker underneath to confirm it has been done?

No idea about that. Probably something that could be asked on an LGB-centred forum or one of the American sites? I think I read about this issue on MyLargeScale.com, when I was reading up about the Mikado having just agreed to buy mine from one of our wonderful GSC folk.

I'm in the same situation as Dave in that I also have a class 66 and minimum ruling radius R3 which is a comfort. Not seen any problems at all with mine, though a little nervous when I first took it to visit friend's lines! I think mine's slightly later production, 2004 if I remember correctly so should have the revised mechanism anyway.

 

[Dave Hub]

Ok thanks t oeveryone who has posted, I'll try to incorperate a reply to all,

Steve, yes this was the one on vectis, I popped along to get my dad a birthday present, and decided to bid on this, spur of the moment thing.

Gareth and Mel, My excuse is its a wedding present to myself, though I don't get married till July.

I am aware of a drive train issue, (read about it after I brought it while looking for sites on fitting DCC to it. So lets call it a £400 quid gamble. This one looks like its either got a new drive train or never been run so lets hope for the second.

Peter I took the liberty of taking photos of the underneath so you can see every sticker on the bottom. please see below.

 

[Dave Hub]

I also had time today to open her up and get a look at the circuit board, again I took photos as I was hoping for some advice on what bit is what,

edited as I was being silly and pressing the wrong button to attach! how embarrassing, and they let me drive trains!

here they are:

 

[ntpntpntp]

(test upload of piccie as Dave was having probs. Don't need this post now)

 

[ntpntpntp]

Ah... I see your photos of the underside have come up now Dave? If you can get the circuit board photos to upload maybe we can take a look at the situation.

 

[ntpntpntp]

Yep, can see them now Dave. No decoder fitted, you need a 55021 or Massoth equivalent as we concluded in the earlier posts.

Hopefully the instructions you have will also explain what dip switches (if any) need to be changed when you fit the decoder. I'm guessing the bank of 4, but not sure about the other bank of 2.

The loco wheels and skates look unused, looks like you've got a good 'un there!

 

[Dave Hub]

Wow thnx for the quick respone,i'll check the instructions about those dip switches and let you know. does the decoder just plug into the holes? and how to you know which holes to plug them into?

Next question, which shop keeps the massoth decoder instock?

This is only my first loco that will be chipped will still have another 10 to go after this? Geez I thought this digital thing was supposed to be easy:impatient:

 

[ntpntpntp]

Hi Dave. Just happen to have GSC up on the work pc (tut tut!)

Yes, the decoder pins plug into those sockets. Pretty sure it'll only fit one way round.

Not sure who'd have the Massoth decoder in stock - Jeremy @ Dragon G scale had it listed out of stock last time I looked, but they might be due in so give him a call? Worth searching out though as it is cheaper than the LGB 55021.

This is an easy one, just plug and play. You wait 'till you have to totally hard-wire a decoder into a loco!

 

[ntpntpntp]

It looks like it is an unmodified 1st batch so keep it off the R1 and R2!

Steve, out of interest are there any tell-tale signs for which version of the drivetrain it is? I've seen mention that lack of decoder and presence of the standing-sound capacitor bank can be an indicator that it's an early one (plus the date sticker of course), but is there anything on the gearbox itself?

 

[whatlep]

Wow thnx for the quick respone,i'll check the instructions about those dip switches and let you know. does the decoder just plug into the holes? and how to you know which holes to plug them into?

Next question, which shop keeps the massoth decoder instock?

This is only my first loco that will be chipped will still have another 10 to go after this? Geez I thought this digital thing was supposed to be easy:impatient:

Hi Dave

As others have written, you really want a Massoth L chip (£52 odd from Jeremy before packing and a 5% discount), If you are truly impatient, you can get an LGB one for £63, or I'll lend you an LGB one until you can get hold of your own decoder!

As the boards are easy to access, I suggest we have a short master class on decoder insertion and CV setting on April 16th when you visit Ruritania. Work for you?

Cheers

 

[Dave Hub]

Thanks Perter, I'll bring the loco and a decoder (as long as I can get one) always easier to be shown what to do.

Only thing is I looked in the instructions and it does not say which dip switches need to be switched, it only states some will have to be changed if adding a decoder. Geuss it'll be trial and error.

Thnx for all the hlp folks,

 

[whatlep]

Only thing is I looked in the instructions and it does not say which dip switches need to be switched, it only states some will have to be changed if adding a decoder. Geuss it'll be trial and error.

It's the bank of 4 at least for basic motion. Note the abbreviation "Dec" for Decoder by them. You (we!) won't do any harm by getting the settings wrong in any case. The loco will just sit there and stare dumbly at us. That'll make a nice change from me looking dumbly at something.....

 

[ntpntpntp]

In this case it is easy to tell that it is a first batch as the gearbox cover has 2001 copyright molded onto it and a 2001 gold LGB production date lable. If a whole new gearbox had been swapped over you wouldn't expect to have the original production date sticker.

Mine dated 2004 on the sticker still has (C)2001 on the moulding. I'm confident that mine will have the revised mechanism, but for Dave's benefit just wondering if there are any observable physical differences in case the label wasn't replaced and it was just some internal parts exchanged? I don't know how much of a design change was involved, but I expect you're correct it would have been a case of a complete swap-out of the motor blocks on the recalled models.

 

[Zerogee]

It is interesting that Bachmann made the same design error as LGB linking to motors via drive shafts in the first batch of Climax locos. Both manufacturers never considered what would happen if the two motors ran at different speeds or one got stuck. The simple answer is the plastic gear, motor housing and / con rods break. Bachmann fixed it by putting a slip joint on the rear drive shaft so that the rear motor can rotate independantly if the torque gets to much.

So what did LGB do differently for the Harz 2-10-2T, which I think also has two motors in an articulated chassis system? Do these have potentially the same risk to the con rods if one motor gets stuck, or did they learn their lesson with the Mikado and use some kind of slip or clutch here as well?

Jon.

 

[stockers]

The two motors are fixed to each other by a flexible drive. No slippage can be allowed for because the coupling rods would then be out of sync.

 

[stockers]

Question on the Mik. Is it a rigid 8 wheel chassis or effectively two linked 4 wheel chassis's? (Chassii)?

 

[stockers]

Well I thought I could - just checking. So, are both parts motorised?

 

[Zerogee]

The two motors are fixed to each other by a flexible drive. No slippage can be allowed for because the coupling rods would then be out of sync.

Thanks - yes, just had a look at the exploded diagram pdfs and there is a universal-joint coupling between the two motors, so even if one fails - provided it doesn't seize solid, of course (!) - the other motor will turn it and keep everything in sync (this is the 2-10-2T, not the Mikado).

So what is it with the early Mikados? Do they have some similar sort of link that simply wasn't strong enough for the job when faced with the stresses of R1 curves?