Lgb mallet 20851
- Thread starter Adam1989
- Start date
Remind us what DCC equipment you have, and we can give you chapter and verse..
Basically, if Massoth, then CV 50 needs to be set to about 5 or 6..
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
As Stockers said in post 36, you need to change CV50, which sets the overall lighting voltage; each number in CV50 is 1/32 of the full track voltage (so each number represents 0.75 volts), so if you've got 5volt bulbs then you need to turn it down to about 6, which would give you 4.5 volts - ideal for a nice soft old-timey glow to the lights. If you wanted them brighter then you'd get away with a CV50 setting of 7 or maybe 8, much higher and you'd risk blowing bulbs....
Jon.
Edit: was still typing the above when PhilP posted.... he's quite right, we're assuming you are using either LGB MTS or Massoth here....
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Thanks! 
So yes, definitely re-write CV50 down to around 5 or 6..... and make sure you do it BEFORE you connect up the lights and turn on the power for the first time!
Otherwise you've have very bright lights for a brief moment, then be plunged into darkness.....
Jon.
Edit: there IS another way if you don't want to fiddle with the CVs.... that is simply replace the push-in 5 volt bulbs with 24 volt ones....!
So yes, definitely re-write CV50 down to around 5 or 6..... and make sure you do it BEFORE you connect up the lights and turn on the power for the first time!
Otherwise you've have very bright lights for a brief moment, then be plunged into darkness.....
Jon.
Edit: there IS another way if you don't want to fiddle with the CVs.... that is simply replace the push-in 5 volt bulbs with 24 volt ones....!
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Sorry, it's a long time since I had my old MTS system - I don't recall the procedure for changing CVs with it (though of course you can do it - at least for CVs up to 99) - hopefully someone more recently familiar with the system will chip and and tell you how....
Jon.
I used this tortuous route to change the chuffs on an LGB Sound Sachen Meyer for a mate, tricky but it worked. Should do for a Massoth Chip as well - note the should do! As a starter you could try changing CV 1 first, if that works OK you will be on your way. Make a note of what you changed it to, I like to use the Loco Numbers last 2 digits if possible and a Sticker on the bottom of the loco. Note you will only be able to use 01-22 with an LGB Setup. Though the Chip will allow 001-999 I think.
If all that fails, best bet would be if someone from here nearby with a Massoth Setup could help Adam with his CV's.
D
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stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
I am sure that, if you buy the decoder from a reputable dealer, they will change CV50 before sending it to you - and change the address if you want it. Try Mark at Garden Rail Outlet.
http://gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/
http://gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/
Adam1989
Registered
I already have the decoder and installed it I've changed the loco address, I know how to do that it' just the lights I need to sort
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
John S's run-through in post no.53 should be all you need - just follow the steps as shown, where John has helpfully annotated the photo of the LGB instructions to show you the values to enter, and it should work fine!
I think you should be able to READ CVs with your LGB remote, as well as write to them - so when you think you've done it, do a read of CV50 and see if it comes back with the new value (5 or 6, or whatever you have chosen).
If you're still worried that it may not have worked even after following all the steps, then there are a couple of other things you can do to be 100% sure - if the loco is still opened up and you can get at the lighting wiring, then disconnect the lights temporarily and put a voltmeter across the light outputs from the decoder as the light function is switched on - if it shows around 5 volts or so, then the CV change has worked OK - if it still shows full voltage (22v) then try the process again.
Alternatively, if you have already reassembled the loco and don't fancy taking it apart again, then I guess the last option is to temporarily pull out all the bulbs except one - then turn the lights on; that way if you DO still blow the one remaining bulb, you've only got to replace one instead of three!
Jon.
If in doubt... 1K resistor in series, will always work.. - LED's as well.
I also happen to have a big bag of 12V wire-ended grain of wheat bulbs.. The wires are long enough to poke into LGB bulb-holders easily, and they seem to survive have full voltage through them.. If they show a jaundiced yellow, then 5V bulbs are replaced.
I also happen to have a big bag of 12V wire-ended grain of wheat bulbs.. The wires are long enough to poke into LGB bulb-holders easily, and they seem to survive have full voltage through them.. If they show a jaundiced yellow, then 5V bulbs are replaced.
