LGB buhler motor specification

Mobi

Mobi

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Can someone please describe the buhler motor characteristics, i.e. the motor which is fitted in most LGB locos.

I am looking for basic stats like wattage, RPM against voltage etc.

Also, why the LGB analog controller does not behave in a linear fashion? In setting 1 locos don't move and it barely moves after 2. Then it is too fast between 3 & 4.

Is there any problem with my controller? I didn't have a chance to test any other controller.
 
Mobi said:
Can someone please describe the buhler motor characteristics, i.e. the motor which is fitted in most LGB locos.

I am looking for basic stats like wattage, RPM against voltage etc.

Also, why the LGB analog controller does not behave in a linear fashion? In setting 1 locos don't move and it barely moves after 2. Then it is too fast between 3 & 4.

Is there any problem with my controller? I didn't have a chance to test any other controller.
Click to expand...
Can't help with characteristics I am afraid..

Am I right in thinking you have a digital loco??
If so, although you are using analogue, the decoder is still in charge, and there is a built-in speed-curve for analogue use.

Try turning your controller to '2' (say) and then waiting.. There may well be some 'lag' built-in to the system (commonly called 'momentum' in decoder settings). The same can be true for slowing down (though this tends to be less, for safety).

The 'steps' on your controller may well be linear (equal), but the motor will not get enough power to actually pull the loco until you get 4-5 volts on the track.
 
Mobi - of course it's entirely your decision, and it's your loco - we can only offer advice - but as mentioned in one of your other threads, I would REALLY, REALLY, REALLY strongly suggest that you disconnect the decoder in your new loco and bypass it completely.... then you can play around with analogue power, batteries and eventually R/C to your heart's content, knowing that you won't ever risk letting the "magic smoke" out of the decoder board.....

Advice freely offered, whether or not you choose to follow it is up to you! ;)

Jon.
 
Yes, I'm talking about your DCC KoF..... if you either remove or just bypass the decoder completely (as discussed at length in your other thread) and feed your analogue/battery power directly to the motor, you will probably find that its running behaviour is much closer to that of your analogue Stainz - plus you won't be risking any damage to the decoder should you ever wish to return the KoF to DCC operation for any reason (eg: if you wanted to resell it to trade-up to a bigger loco!).

Jon.
 
If the motor is rated for max 20 V with 1 A current, then can we assume motor wattage is 20 x 1 = 20 W (using Power = Volt * Ampere formula).

I searched on the web but couldn't find this info, which is bit surprising!
 
Mobi said:
If the motor is rated for max 20 V with 1 A current, then can we assume motor wattage is 20 x 1 = 20 W (using Power = Volt * Ampere formula).

I searched on the web but couldn't find this info, which is bit surprising!
Click to expand...
The problem is not 'normal' running, but something called the 'stall current' of the motor..

As you increase the load on the motor (going up an incline, round curves, more rolling stock in our cases) the load on the motor increases. you get to a point where the motor stalls, and maximum current is drawn at this point.
This is mainly due to the low internal resistance of the windings (long thin length of wire), and the energy not being used to turn the motor, and the load on the motor fighting back.

A Buhler motor will run quite happily at about 0.2A with no load. Stop it spinning (stall it), but not for long it gets hot, and this can increase to 3Amps plus.
 
Buhler 1.13.021.302 is the motor 24 volts power 6.3 torque 2 speed 3000 No load speed 4500 No load current 0.05 Stall torque 6.5 Stall current 1.3 Amps max.

Taken from Buhler motor sheet.

Burn one pole by misuse and you have 6 pols and 2-3 Amps ???
 
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