K27 bridge bypass on the NSLR Begins

Looks brilliant Nico , Ideas stored :thumbup:
 
very impressive..:thumbup:
 
It looks as if 1/2lb of lead is called for to resolve the lifting problem.......
 
The snag might be that there isn't v much clearance above the truck. as I recall I had to chamfer a nib obove the bogie to allow it to swing enough to negotiate R3s
 
nico said:
i noticed there is a piece of plastic in the center of the loco that holds the wheels down when straight but when they move left or right theres nothing to stop them bouncing around
Click to expand...
That is what I had to file down to prevent the bogie sticking at an angle. Perhaps removing it has caused/worsened the problem although I didn't see it happening before then.
 
did yours come with a plough attached.I was looking at pictures online.i just looked at mine now it completely different to the picture i was looking at
just found your old thread yea yours are the same as mine
 
nico said:
did yours come with a plough attached.I was looking at pictures online.i just looked at mine now it completely different to the picture i was looking at
just found your old thread yea yours are the same as mine
Click to expand...
No the plough I added later. It is strictly not accurate for the loco but I had so much hassle with the first loco (with plough) being 'dead on arrival' that I decided not to return the replacement which lacked the plough. It was a devil of a job to fit. but at least i have several spare lamps and a smokebox door!
 
Hi Nico
I have had the same problem with my K-27 front pony truck found the problem to be the plastic arm thats in the middle drops out of it's slot on the loco . Once it's pushed back in place all is fine on my R3 curves i have found that keeping the loco and tender together at all times helps have also built a box with track so the loco can roll straight out into the garden with no lifting involved .
 
Richie Can I ask how have you arranged for the loco to run from the box direct onto the track?
I built a box but i still have to lift the loco onto the track.
 
Richie said:
Hi Nico
I have had the same problem with my K-27 front pony truck found the problem to be the plastic arm thats in the middle drops out of it's slot on the loco . Once it's pushed back in place all is fine on my R3 curves i have found that keeping the loco and tender together at all times helps have also built a box with track so the loco can roll straight out into the garden with no lifting involved .
Click to expand...
Have a thread here on the making of your box or is it under patent:@>:
 
I tried having the loco on a loose length of Peco Code 250 and sliding it out of the box but with my track at ground level it is not easy.
When i built the box I had visions of having a section of track with a chamfered base projecting so that i could connect it to the layout rails and drive the loco out.
It hasn't happened!.
It might be possible to have strips of wood or rail on the base of the box and the hinged end to act as a guide in the same way a re-railer works and draw the loco onto the track???
 
nico said:
Richie said:
Hi Nico
I have had the same problem with my K-27 front pony truck found the problem to be the plastic arm thats in the middle drops out of it's slot on the loco . Once it's pushed back in place all is fine on my R3 curves i have found that keeping the loco and tender together at all times helps have also built a box with track so the loco can roll straight out into the garden with no lifting involved .
Click to expand...
Have a thread here on the making of your box or is it under patent:@>:
Click to expand...

Couldn't afford the patent:laugh:
 
KeithT said:
I tried having the loco on a loose length of Peco Code 250 and sliding it out of the box but with my track at ground level it is not easy.
When i built the box I had visions of having a section of track with a chamfered base projecting so that i could connect it to the layout rails and drive the loco out.
It hasn't happened!.
It might be possible to have strips of wood or rail on the base of the box and the hinged end to act as a guide in the same way a re-railer works and draw the loco onto the track???
Click to expand...
Hi Keith
I have a length of track screwed on a piece of wood set on a slope with a LGB re-railer fitted to the end
works very well :thumbup:
 
Richie said:
KeithT said:
I tried having the loco on a loose length of Peco Code 250 and sliding it out of the box but with my track at ground level it is not easy.
When i built the box I had visions of having a section of track with a chamfered base projecting so that i could connect it to the layout rails and drive the loco out.
It hasn't happened!.
It might be possible to have strips of wood or rail on the base of the box and the hinged end to act as a guide in the same way a re-railer works and draw the loco onto the track???
Click to expand...
Hi Keith
I have a length of track screwed on a piece of wood set on a slope with a LGB re-railer fitted to the end
works very well :thumbup:
Click to expand...
I never thought of that!!!! I have an LGB re-railer too.
Thanks i will try it
 
Hey bro' just glanced your crib man......Excellent building there Nico, built to last!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom