Isolating Passing Loop and Extension

SDJR7F88

SDJR7F88

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With the new extension to the Blagdon & Butcombe Light Railway going in, I though it would be the perfect time to finally getting around to isolating the passing loop to which it joins. I run good old DC, so need the isolated sections for holding and passing trains (in the whole life of the layout I don't think I've had two locos on the track at one time!). :D
I've found this diagram online and have based my plans on it, isolating one side of the rail and connecting it to a Piko ON/OFF Switch box is the idea, though as you can see from my plans and the track design, it's a bit more complected than that.
G scale passing loop wiring.png
All four switches on the box will be used to isolate four different sections... Which can be used in combos to create long isolating sections
. 1st Switch (Blue) Station Entrance
. 2nd Switch (Green) Station Passing Loop
. 3rd Switch (Orange) Extension
. 4th Switch (Red) Through Line Branching to Extension
Where the colored lines end with a little black line, is where the isolating fish plates will be. (There are one or two wrong ones on there, but they are not at the end of the coloured sections though and will of course not feature in the real set-up).
DSC04363 (1024x768).jpg
All I want to know is, does my plan make sense and will it work, before I start replacing fish plates with Isolating ones.;)
Many thanks
 
Looks good to me.

There is another orange section on the left which is not connected which I assume is part of a loop which connects back into the red through line?

This will also work if it's the case....
 
Just a suggestion, when you take the standard fishplate joiners off the track pieces you want to isolate, don't use the LGB yellow plastic isolators - they are a very loose fit and don't actually hold the track together; you will find it much easier if you get a few of something like this, which will physically hold the track securely as well as providing the insulation break:

http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-insulated-rail-clamp-brass

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Just a suggestion, when you take the standard fishplate joiners off the track pieces you want to isolate, don't use the LGB yellow plastic isolators - they are a very loose fit and don't actually hold the track together; you will find it much easier if you get a few of something like this, which will physically hold the track securely as well as providing the insulation break:

http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-insulated-rail-clamp-brass

Jon.
Click to expand...
and give you some easy power connectors for the wiring.
 
PaulRhB said:
As Gizzy says it will work but I'm curious why you want to isolate the blue Stn entrance section rather than the siding on the left?
Click to expand...
Hi Paul, it's part of my mad plan. :D The siding to the left (with the orange rail) is in fact not a siding, but where the extension heads off and joins back onto the other orange section near the switch box (I could not fit the whole extension on, so just showed where it headed off and returned.
As for the blue section it means I can isolate longer trains, as my little passing loop (with the green rail) can only hold a loco and 2 4 wheel coaches or wagons. So with that section isolated, I can hold a longer train in it, with the train covering the blue and green section, while another train can head off around the orange extension. If that makes any sense ;)
 
Zerogee said:
Just a suggestion, when you take the standard fishplate joiners off the track pieces you want to isolate, don't use the LGB yellow plastic isolators - they are a very loose fit and don't actually hold the track together; you will find it much easier if you get a few of something like this, which will physically hold the track securely as well as providing the insulation break:

http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-insulated-rail-clamp-brass

Jon.
Click to expand...
stockers said:
and give you some easy power connectors for the wiring.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up
 
Gizzy said:
Looks good to me.

There is another orange section on the left which is not connected which I assume is part of a loop which connects back into the red through line?

This will also work if it's the case....
Click to expand...
Thanks Gizzy. Indeed it will. Glad you'll think it will work. Will get around to trying to knock the fish plates off now ;)
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Will get around to trying to knock the fish plates off now ;)
Click to expand...
Now that could be a subject of another thread!

I tend to twist them off with pliers, but others here can advise you of a less destructive method....
 
Agreed Gizzy - it virtually wrecks them but open out the sides and twist off - for LGB anyway. Otherwise getting the tag out of the sleepers will damage something, Don't cry about a couple of fishplates - you could probably re bend them but replacements are easy to get.
 
Gizzy said:
Now that could be a subject of another thread!

I tend to twist them off with pliers, but others here can advise you of a less destructive method....
Click to expand...
stockers said:
Agreed Gizzy - it virtually wrecks them but open out the sides and twist off - for LGB anyway. Otherwise getting the tag out of the sleepers will damage something, Don't cry about a couple of fishplates - you could probably re bend them but replacements are easy to get.
Click to expand...
oberinntal said:
I have had some success by knocking the rail out of the fishplate.

This may not be the easiest thing to explain, but here goes. Solidly support the sleeper that has the fishplate tag in it, then insert a small piece of old rail into the open end of the fishplate, tap the end of this rail carefully with a hammer to force the original rail to slide backwards out of the fishplate.

View attachment 213127

This method should leave the track base, rail and fishplate undamaged.
Click to expand...
Thanks ever so much guys! Was honestly going to start a full topic on this, but no need for it now as I have all the answers I need! :rofl: I have done it in the past for a few sections, but they were only straights and curves. I need to be a bit more careful for this lot, as some of the fish plates which need removing are on points.
Very helpful tip above, wonder if it will work on points though ;)
 
Right. Track down and Isolated, and awaiting Switch Box. My question now is, how to wire it up? As mentioned, the Controller and Switch box is going to be on a small wooden board, which I will bring out when running. Rather than having to connect all the wires to the tracks ever time I want to run it I was think about leaving the wires outside, with the ends in somewhere of cover (an airtight box maybe)?
Another question is what wire to use and how to attach it. I was thinking on attaching the wire to the track by the means of some Piko Joiner Clamps, which I have left over. They seem a very tight fit, and can easy have wires attached to them. As for covering the wire, can I simply cover it in ballast? I watched a Piko how too video recently and they seemed to do just that.
Any help would be very much appreciated!
 
For wire I've used 1,5 mm2 solid core wire, used in home electrical systems. (what's the correct term for this?). It has to be rabbit proof... They snap through multi strand wire in a matter of seconds...

I connected everything with LGB electrical connectors to which I added plugs & spades used in car electronics, with mechanical connections...

l_kabelschoentje%20set%20rood.jpg

This is in between the solid core wire and the flex wire from the LGB connectors, hidden between the tracks so the rabbits cannot get to them...

I use an old LGB switchbox with four switches which I intent to leave outside as it looks pretty much water proof and what can go possibly wrong...?

Kabelschoen-voor-koperkabel-Amp-blauw-1377173-4-1.gif


I connected the solid wires with 'o' cable shoes to the terminals on the switch box, which are in turn treated and use a nut to tighten wires. An 'o' cable shoe fits perfectly and is mechanically very solid.

Maybe I add a drop of solder to all connectors to prevent oxidation.
 
Henri said:
For wire I've used 1,5 mm2 solid core wire, used in home electrical systems. (what's the correct term for this?). It has to be rabbit proof... They snap through multi strand wire in a matter of seconds...

I connected everything with LGB electrical connectors to which I added plugs & spades used in car electronics, with mechanical connections...

l_kabelschoentje%20set%20rood.jpg

This is in between the solid core wire and the flex wire from the LGB connectors, hidden between the tracks so the rabbits cannot get to them...

I use an old LGB switchbox with four switches which I intent to leave outside as it looks pretty much water proof and what can go possibly wrong...?

Kabelschoen-voor-koperkabel-Amp-blauw-1377173-4-1.gif


I connected the solid wires with 'o' cable shoes to the terminals on the switch box, which are in turn treated and use a nut to tighten wires. An 'o' cable shoe fits perfectly and is mechanically very solid.

Maybe I add a drop of solder to all connectors to prevent oxidation.
Click to expand...
In the UK cable used for domestic installations is commonly referred to as " twin and Earth". The grey outer sheath contains one blue insulated single core, one brown insulated single core and an uninsulated single core for earth/ground connection.
The blue connectors in your post are commonly referred to as "ring terminals (insulated crimp type)". You can purchase terminals with a glue/sealant in them; crimp as normal and then apply heat to release the glue which seals the connection from moisture.
Use a ratchet type crimping tool to ensure a good connection on the single core cable. Some terminals have ridges on the inside making them more suitable for use on solid cable.
 
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Of course, post-Brexit, we may go back to red and black for the insulation colours..
More importantly.....


I want my ten volts back!!!!

;):rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Right, I've found some wire, it's the same as the stuff used for the track connectors. Can I just bury it or does it have to be covered?
Click to expand...

Depending on the length of the run..
You can just bury it, and it will last a few years. - Depends on how disturbed it gets..

An alternative, is to buy a cheap garden hose, and run it in that.. You can put a 'draw-wire' (usually a length of orange builders twine) in the hose for when you want to add more wires.. Means you can add, or make changes, at a later date, without lifting your track.
 
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