Tramcar Trev said:
Don get yourself one of these (or the generic equivalent); http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360738305042?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2665wt_1075
Takes all the guesswork out of the care and feeding of most rechargeable batteries, even can "rejuvenate" Nicads....
Tramcar Trev said:
Don get yourself one of these (or the generic equivalent); http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360738305042?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2665wt_1075
Takes all the guesswork out of the care and feeding of most rechargeable batteries, even can "rejuvenate" Nicads....
don9GLC said:
Just curious. How do you get a steady 0.5A discharge current? I had been thinking of an electronic load unit until I saw the prices!
And how did you time the discharge duration?
At C/10 discharge you were loading the cell at full rate (5Ah), not 'playing safe'. Or did they quote a different rate.
I 'tested' the cell in my malfunctioning flashlight (it was a problem with the focusing ring breaking connection, only - eventually - obvious when everything electrical tested OK). Over 17A through my Fluke DVM (on 10A range) so it was a very brief test! The cell is labeled 3.7V 800mAh incidentally. Anyone who thinks that it's no problem shipping these batteries by air IMHO has been watching the Dambusters movie far too often. These bombs do not need to bounce.
Don
How did you manage to draw 17A through your Fluke Digital Multi Meter (DMM) on the 10A range without blowing the fuse or is that why the test was so short?
Any multi-meter using the ammeter function will basically connect a short circuit across a battery.
An ammeter uses a current shunt which is basically a known very low resistance (close enough to a short circuit) through which all the current flows, the voltage drop across the shunt is proportional to the current flowing through it and since its resistance is known a voltmeter (with its display scaled to display Amps) connected across the shunt is what displays the current value.
This is how the current function of a multi-meter works.
To measure the current draw from a battery a current limiting device has to be inserted into the circuit to lower the current to within the range of the meter, as an ammeter has to be connected in series for it to function.
I would seriously recommend against connecting a DMM in current mode across any battery without a current limiting device (resistor) unless you want see some interesting results (eg molten plastic lumps) or possible fireworks depending on battery chemistry.