Cutting track

Stainzmeister - 28/10/2009 7:11 PM

Hacksaw for me and usually a railclamp to join rails on cut sections of track.
Although a used fishplate is okay if it is clean and its graphite greased and pinched up tight. :D
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Ditto. Railclamp also avoids the need to make everything utterly square, while a slight gap gives a splendid clickety-clack noise, much appreciated by my neighbour.... ;)
 
GrahamMills - 28/10/2009 5:10 PM <p>
mike - 28/10/2009 5:02 PM i ve used both graham, but, i prefere to use the dremile, fingers arnt much good at gripping the junier hacksaw, to saw stright..
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</p><p>That's interesting Mike. I have always been nervous of the dremile as being too 'free hand' to get clean straight lines wheras you can use a saw in a mitre or equivalent. </p><p>
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</p><p>i carnt hold the dam track, saw and a miter block at thje same time grahame, so its easyer for me, to use a drenile , and slisce through the brass rail//</p>
 
Simple cut with a hacksaw, and as we are fortunately playing with a gauge that's much bigger than N, you don't need to get too worried about the cut not being plumb, or square, or the track lengths being a perfick fit - the trains will run over about a 7mm gap without anybody knowing - but don't ask me how I know this :thumbup:

Belly-benders of the world, unite :o
 
I'm with Big Jack on this one - I use an angle grinder. A bit brutal but it works. Just go gently.
(I dont do it waering sandals though Steve. :o )
 
hey, thats full safty gear for tracture drivers :rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:
 
Mr. Dremel, and if you want to make those small size LGB pieces of track, cut out of regular 300mm track. :applause: Alyn
 
Air cut off wheel. It melts brass 332 rail...."Like Buttah".
 
<p>
Spule 4 - 6/11/2009 2:59 PM Air cut off wheel. It melts brass 332 rail...."Like Buttah".
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</p><p>and what pray is an Air Cut Off Wheel?</p>
 
<p><font size="3">Hi Graham,</font></p><p><font size="3">Think of a Dremel type tool with a carborundum (disc) cutting wheel in it, BUT instead of electric power it is powered with compressed air. I think the cutting disc will be a bit larger as well.</font></p><p><font size="3">They will be quite a fearsome tool!</font></p><p><font size="3" /></p>
 
<p>Junior hacksaw + grunting</p><p><a href="http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2008/07/how-did-i-build-extension.html"><img width="320" height="240" border="0" alt="Junior hacksaw cutting track" title="Junior hacksaw cutting track" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lFmnuaQ3ubw/SJdzJKMy07I/AAAAAAAAAcA/neFiwaH17TU/s320/IMG_1364.JPG" /></a> </p><p>It doesn't work without the grunting</p><p>Never had any problems with bending track etc.
</p><p>I use LGB fishplates (for LGB, Aristo and Tenmille track) and bond every joint with solder</p><p><a href="http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2006/05/how-did-i-bond-rails.html"><img width="320" height="240" border="0" alt="Soldering track" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/3255/2762/320/DSCF0009.0.jpg" /></a> </p><p> Rik</p>
 
peterbunce - 7/11/2009 11:29 AM

<p><font size="3">Hi Graham,</font></p><p><font size="3">Think of a Dremel type tool with a carborundum (disc) cutting wheel  in it, BUT instead of electric power it is powered  with compressed air. I think the cutting disc will be a bit larger as well.</font></p><p><font size="3">They will be quite a fearsome tool!</font></p><p><font size="3" /></p>
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Exactly. Why do by hand something you can do and risk loosing a hand in the process!!! :thumbup:

Here is what one looks like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/MATCO-MT1871R-AIR-CUT-OFF-WHEEL-TOOL-REVERSIBLE_W0QQitemZ110454678880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b79ca560

Very handy tool, only outdone by the air chisel in terms of destruction.
 
<p>An angle grinder is just a big boys Dremel.</p><p>I claim to use a hacksaw, but in reality most times I run the track through the bandsaw for speed and neatness :cool: </p>
 
Did most of the H&MGR with Mr Dremel, but lately found cousin hacksaw easier, both methods finished with a file. Patience and care needed with both for me. If cutting in place then Mr Dremel would be the weapon of choice. ;)
 
Just catching up now I am out of hossy.

I use a razor (jewellers) saw, the ones you buy from your hobby shop. It slices through the brass with a nice clean cut and the teeth do not jag when cutting.
 
corgi - 24/11/2009 10:14 AM

Just catching up now I am out of hossy.

I use a razor (jewellers) saw, the ones you buy from your hobby shop. It slices through the brass with a nice clean cut and the teeth do not jag when cutting.
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:applause: Out of hospital is a good place to be (you can only read train books in there). Hope all is well. :wits: Now, cutting track....tried both the dremel, and hacksaw. I find it hard, if not impossible, to get a square and vertical cut... the body of the tool gets in the way. If cutting track that is out of the layout, I use hacksaw and mitre box. For cutting track on site, I would get a squared up block of wood, have rail grooves cut into it, and place this over the track for a good square cut. :thumbup:
 
A man with a like mind, a wump of wood with grooves, simples
 
Gavin Sowry - 23/11/2009 9:25 PM

corgi - 24/11/2009 10:14 AM

Just catching up now I am out of hossy.

I use a razor (jewellers) saw, the ones you buy from your hobby shop. It slices through the brass with a nice clean cut and the teeth do not jag when cutting.
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:applause: Out of hospital is a good place to be (you can only read train books in there). Hope all is well. :wits: Now, cutting track....tried both the dremel, and hacksaw. I find it hard, if not impossible, to get a square and vertical cut... the body of the tool gets in the way. If cutting track that is out of the layout, I use hacksaw and mitre box. For cutting track on site, I would get a squared up block of wood, have rail grooves cut into it, and place this over the track for a good square cut. :thumbup:
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I admire the perfectionist - seriously :applause:

but I have to ask whether this is an area where perfection is a necessity. Yes, Rule 8 rules, and if the sight of an off-square cut offends you, then that's not acceptable ( and I'm not trying to be sarcastic here).

However, if we're talking the basic essentials for trains to run reliably, any old cut with a hacksaw will do the job, and with the 10ft rule.............., well, if you can pick out the badly hacked rail joints in the photos of my railroad..................


That's because the photos are crap as well :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:
 
Woderwick - 24/11/2009 2:49 PM

Actaully, they were n't open toed sandels when he started.... :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:
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'Open toed' could be a quite appropriate description, then :o :onphone:
 
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