Cutting track
- Thread starter GrahamMills
- Start date
Steve - 24/11/2009 3:47 PM
Its not the foot wear that bothers me its the wearing of socks with them
That's compulsory when you get to a certain age apparently.
Steve - 24/11/2009 3:47 PM
Its not the foot wear that bothers me its the wearing of socks with them
Would you really want to see his feet ?
3Valve - 25/11/2009 3:28 AM
Angle grinder and open-toed sandles - Scary
Scary, yes. Should have one foot on the track that he's cutting. :thumbdown:
trammayo - 25/11/2009 9:43 AM
Woderwick - 24/11/2009 2:49 PM
Actaully, they were n't open toed sandels when he started....
But, now that they are, here are the ideal socks!
Well that's Bigjack's Crimble present sorted then....
My preferred method is a Bosch (or equivalent) 4"/100 mm angle grinder with a stainless steel cut off wheel, these aren't made of stainless steel but are a reinforced cut-off wheel made for cutting stainless steel, it is only 1.0mm thick and cuts thru brass rail so easy. The machine is small enough to be used one handed, I fabricate all my point blades and frog vees with this as well.
Be warned, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
Be warned, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
<p>
</p>
</p><p> </p><p>Ah, fine blades for a junior hacksaw, mine has a rather nasty wavey blade, would be so much more useful with a fine blade, will hunt some out, brilliant, thanks for the idea. :applause:
</p>
A junior hacksaw and a fine file is all that I have used together with an engineers square and a pencil. The engineers square helps to keep the rail ends level. The junior hacksaw with a fine blade allows brass rails to be cut insitue, even on top of the rail its to be joined onto for accurate lengths to close gaps when modifying track . I use a brick resting on top of the track as a weight to hold it still. Cutting stainless steel must be difficult.
<p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">There are many ways of skinning a cat it is said. </font></font></font></p><p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand"> You can knock a screw into timber with a hammer: but the generally accepted way is to use a screwdriver. 
</font></font></font></p>
</font></font></font></p><p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand"> You can knock a screw into timber with a hammer: but the generally accepted way is to use a screwdriver. </font></font></font></p>
The Devonian - 2/12/2009 1:32 PM
<p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">There are many ways of skinning a cat it is said.
</font></font></font></p>
wot's a screwdriver ?
<p><font color="#990000"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">This, I understand, is a Birmingham screwdriver. </font></font></font></p><p> <img width="200" height="71" border="0" class="imgright" alt="ball pein" src="http://www.diydata.com/tool/hammer/ball.jpg" /></p>
</font></font></font></p><p> <img width="200" height="71" border="0" class="imgright" alt="ball pein" src="http://www.diydata.com/tool/hammer/ball.jpg" /></p>
The Devonian - 2/12/2009 5:54 PM
<p><font color="#990000"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">This, I understand, is a Birmingham screwdriver.
I thought the same until I moved home nearer to Birmingham. Hereabouts it is known as a Manchester screwdriver
I can comfortably assert that neither is going to be a lot of good for cutting track - much too blunt
In the days of the building of the US transcontinental RR and pionnering Railroads in the the "New World" they did cut wrot iron track with sledge hammers and a specal cold chisel with a handle like a spliting axe, not so good with brass code 332 or code 250 G scale track?