Cutting track

Its not the foot wear that bothers me its the wearing of socks with them :nail:
 
3Valve - 25/11/2009 3:28 AM

Gizzy - 28/10/2009 1:22 PM

Of course, there are some on this forum who have an alternative method for cutting track....

Angle grinder and open-toed sandles - Scary :nail: :nail: :nail:

:nail: Scary, yes. Should have one foot on the track that he's cutting. :thumbdown:
 
Woderwick - 24/11/2009 2:49 PM

Actaully, they were n't open toed sandels when he started.... :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:

But, now that they are, here are the ideal socks!
 
trammayo - 25/11/2009 9:43 AM

Woderwick - 24/11/2009 2:49 PM

Actaully, they were n't open toed sandels when he started.... :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:

But, now that they are, here are the ideal socks!

Well that's Bigjack's Crimble present sorted then....
 
My preferred method is a Bosch (or equivalent) 4"/100 mm angle grinder with a stainless steel cut off wheel, these aren't made of stainless steel but are a reinforced cut-off wheel made for cutting stainless steel, it is only 1.0mm thick and cuts thru brass rail so easy. The machine is small enough to be used one handed, I fabricate all my point blades and frog vees with this as well.
Be warned, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
 
In Auckland, NZ we use good quality sissors from the $2 Shop. They give a good edge on our track over the "Southlanders".

Well might duck below that parapet I built for the purpose. :D :D :D
 
Can't beat a junior hacksaw with a new fine tooth blade. :applause:
 
<p>
orville - 29/11/2009 7:17 AM Can't beat a junior hacksaw with a new fine tooth blade. :applause:
</p><p> </p><p>Ah, fine blades for a junior hacksaw, mine has a rather nasty wavey blade, would be so much more useful with a fine blade, will hunt some out, brilliant, thanks for the idea. :applause:
</p>
 
A junior hacksaw and a fine file is all that I have used together with an engineers square and a pencil. The engineers square helps to keep the rail ends level. The junior hacksaw with a fine blade allows brass rails to be cut insitue, even on top of the rail its to be joined onto for accurate lengths to close gaps when modifying track . I use a brick resting on top of the track as a weight to hold it still. Cutting stainless steel must be difficult.
 
<p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">There are many ways of skinning a cat it is said. :D </font></font></font></p><p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand"> You can knock a screw into timber with a hammer: but the generally accepted way is to use a screwdriver. ;)
</font></font></font></p>
 
The Devonian - 2/12/2009 1:32 PM

<p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">There are many ways of skinning a cat it is said.  :D </font></font></font></p><p><font color="#006600"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand"> You can knock a screw into timber with a hammer: but the generally accepted way is to use a screwdriver.  ;)
</font></font></font></p>

wot's a screwdriver ? :o
 
It comes with a battery drill these days :rolf:
 
<p><font color="#990000"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">This, I understand, is a Birmingham screwdriver. :rolf: </font></font></font></p><p> <img width="200" height="71" border="0" class="imgright" alt="ball pein" src="http://www.diydata.com/tool/hammer/ball.jpg" /></p>
 
The Devonian - 2/12/2009 5:54 PM

<p><font color="#990000"><font size="3"><font face="comic sans ms,sand">This, I understand, is a Birmingham screwdriver.  :rolf: </font></font></font></p><p> </p>

I thought the same until I moved home nearer to Birmingham. Hereabouts it is known as a Manchester screwdriver
 
I can comfortably assert that neither is going to be a lot of good for cutting track - much too blunt :o :o
 
In the days of the building of the US transcontinental RR and pionnering Railroads in the the "New World" they did cut wrot iron track with sledge hammers and a specal cold chisel with a handle like a spliting axe, not so good with brass code 332 or code 250 G scale track?
 
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