Casting open wagon bodies in resin

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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Spot on Rik! Great job!:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Marvellous!

Mick
 
Nice work. Lovely finish to both the mould and your paintwork.:thumbup:
 
Hi Rik what a great video - thanks for sharing -iwould lkie to do some thing like that but dont have any hartland under frames etc -do you think it would be possible to cast the side frames in resin - and use bachmann wheels - or would the frames crack being made of resin ??? regards Dave
 
whizzo said:
Hi Rik what a great video - thanks for sharing -iwould lkie to do some thing like that but dont have any hartland under frames etc -do you think it would be possible to cast the side frames in resin - and use bachmann wheels - or would the frames crack being made of resin ??? regards Dave
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Thanks for the encouragement chaps - they're nowhere near perfect but they look good chugging around the garden.

Dave
Funny enough, I was considering making my own underframe sides and wagon bases (ie chassis). The Hartland chassis are OK but more US than UK in origin. I'd like to produce something which looks a little more prototypical for a UK based railway. I assume that if I slightly over-engineer the chassis sides (ie make them a but thicker than is prototypical) they would be OK. An alternative might be to add some iron filings to the mix instead of the Fillite powder. However, this is something I might need to investigate further. If I get anywhere I'll post it here.

Mel
Not sure they are good enough to sell on. I'd need to create some better moulds. Maybe if ever I get a bit cash-strapped as I totter into retirement, I'll consider it.

Rik
 
Brilliant Rick well worth all your hard work :thumbup:
 
ge_rik said:
... I was considering making my own underframe sides and wagon bases (ie chassis).
... alternative might be to add some iron filings to the mix instead of the Fillite powder. However, this is something I might need to investigate further. If I get anywhere I'll post it here.
Click to expand...

This is very much the basis of the Andell range, resin/iron wheels included.
They seem robust enough.
 
ge_rik said:
I assume that if I slightly over-engineer the chassis sides (ie make them a but thicker than is prototypical) they would be OK. An alternative might be to add some iron filings to the mix instead of the Fillite powder. However, this is something I might need to investigate further.
Click to expand...
Inspiring work Rik.
Another idea would be to mount the wheelsets in bearings inboard of dummy axleboxes rather like the standard LGB four wheelers but without the swiveling feature for shorter wheelbase wagons like yours. The bearing could be a single piece of flattened U shaped brass per axle, I say brass as it would probably have good free running characteristics with steel axles.
 
Neil Robinson said:
Another idea would be to mount the wheelsets in bearings inboard of dummy axleboxes rather like the standard LGB four wheelers but without the swiveling feature for shorter wheelbase wagons like yours. The bearing could be a single piece of flattened U shaped brass per axle, I say brass as it would probably have good free running characteristics with steel axles.
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Good idea - thanks Neil

Rik
 
lots of really good info from everyone on this thread, like the talc idea and painting the moulds with resin to stop bubbles, ​
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smashing waggons there as well Rik, look the bizz
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DoctorM said:
Thanks for the video. An excellent job - you make it look so easy!
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Actually, it is a lot easier than I thought it would be. Certainly, when compared with trying to make a dozen wagons from scratch. In effect, the most difficult bit is making the masters. But then, I only had to make one side and one end. Once the mould had been created, the most complicated bit was painting the finished bodies.

You'll notice from this picture that some of the early mouldings suffered from air bubbles forming in the detail for the bolt heads. I've almost, but not quite, eliminated this by painting the mould with resin before pouring, though I could do with some slower setting resin as it tends to start going off before I finish pouring. I'll make sure my next batch of resin has a longer 'pot-life'.

IMG_3162.JPG

Rik
 
Hi Rik - make a lottle resin without the filler and drop this into the detail parts of the mound. A quick tap on the table and the air should float up, out of the detail mould. Then pour the resin with filler on top - they will join fully.
As for shelf life - work in the cold. Temperature makes a huge difference to pot life.
 
stockers said:
Hi Rik - make a lottle resin without the filler and drop this into the detail parts of the mound. A quick tap on the table and the air should float up, out of the detail mould. Then pour the resin with filler on top - they will join fully.
As for shelf life - work in the cold. Temperature makes a huge difference to pot life.
Click to expand...
Thanks Alan
Yes, I found to my cost when taking some extra photos for the video that temperature is a significant factor. I'd accidentally stored the resin containers next to the radiator. When I mixed them, the resin went off while I was stirring it - pot life was down to under a minute!

Thanks for the suggestion about using resin without filler for the details. I'll give that a go with the next batch of mouldings.

Rik
 
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