Bachmann 'LYN' type loco

[duncan1_9_8_4]

On the instructions and diagrams, for the Bachmann Lyn it makes reference to a simple plug, in which you plug in a dcc decoder. It sounds and looks simple, but i have never chipped a loco so to speak. I would also like to make use of the speaker on board. What do i need to make the loco dcc with sound, to simply plug it in??????

 

[jimmielx]

Duncan, an 8 pin NMRA plug equipped decoder will get the loco chipped. The speaker and chuff synchroniser however do not connect via that plug. I'm not aware of a method of just plugging something in which will provide both DCC and sound - a tiny bit more work may be required to connect the speaker. I have gone without sound and fitted a Zimo MX632R decoder (from Coastal DCC) which just plugs in and works. I chose this as it was the highest rated decoder I could find with an 8 pin plug, following an earlier experiment with a Hornby Sapphire decoder which did not have a high enough current rating. I did have to adjust some Back EMF CVs to get the Zimo working well, but other than that it's plug and play.

 

[PaulRhB]

You may require a plug separately to wire into a sound decoder as they usually come with screw terminals on the decoder. Then you can easily remove the decoder. Check the ohm rating of the speaker before connecting it as certain decoders use different rated speakers and it can cause them to overheat if the rating isn't compatible.

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

I dont think il bother with sound then, soon as iv got to start screwing things in and messing with the electrics it puts me off. whats a cv etc?

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

i thought some decoders came with sound, like the masoth xl sound ones?

 

[PaulRhB]

They do, QSI, Massoth, Soundtraxx, Deitz,,ESU and Zimo to start with and they are simple to install. As many large scale locos draw more than 2 amps under load the standard socket isn't always enough so they are provided with screw terminals that can handle the full 3 amp load the decoder is designed to supply.
Bachmann are using a motor which does stay within the rating of their socket so they are using it to make simple dcc install easy. Sound decoders draw more because of powering the amplifier and speaker so it is a sensible solution to prevent a load of complaints that when installed in say an Aristo loco, which will draw more, the socket burns out. You can buy decoder harnesses that will simply fit to a sound decoders screw terminals and then plug in. All you need to do is make sure the right wire goes in the right terminal and it's in the decoder instructions. If you can use a choc block connecter you can do this too
Ask anyone who supplies the decoders and they should be able to supply the plug harness.

CV's arej ust values and to be honest you'll only usually need to change 4-5 of them from the factory defaults IF you want to match sounds exactly to the wheel motion and alter acceleration and braking to use the cutoff sounds the chips can produce. Many just plug and play. If you have dcc you'll need to change the loco address anyway so if you can do that then you can do any of them, what to set them too can be sorted by posting on here IF you want to change anything.

 

[PaulRhB]

Watch in a couple of weeks as I have one to install in my Lyn and I'll do a step by step using the ESU decoder. Too busy at the moment with work but I have some time off soon and I'll check out the Bachmann speaker too.

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

I will look forwad to it matey, i've always wanted to have just one loco dcc with sound, but it sounds so god damn complicated to the likes of me. Remember to write it in such a way that thick people like me undersatnd it hehehe. A bit like a cookery book would tell me.

 

[stockers]

Most suppliers will fit the chip - for a small price.

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

i've aleady got the loco now, and no suppliers nearby. cheers though.

 

[Martino]

Duncan,

I may be getting confused here. Do you have DCC on your railway already? If you do, then I'm assuming that you would have had to program running numbers etc into the locos you have. If you have a analogue set up, then your new chipped loco won't do all the stuff you're hoping for.

Apologies if I'm getting the wrong end of the stick - it's not unusual!

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

Sorry for the confusion. My layout is analogue, and all my locos too. But, i would like to chip (with sound too) just one of my new 'LYNS' so that i can take it places, such as my dads, who has DCC and run it on DCC with fully opperational sound. I understand that the effect would not be too good on analogue, but would run on analogue still. I just find the whole matter very confusing, and need very simple instructions and what to buy etc to pull it off.
And then, once it has sound fitted along with a chip, i dont even know how to activate sounds such as a whistle or bells etc. Are they ready programmed? And how do they work alongside the LGB multi train system which my dad opperates. (none of his locos have sound but are all chipped).

 

[Martino]

Aha! Now it's all clear.

Sounds like you need to talk it through with the Parental Unit then. Either that or a good book. I found Don Fiehmann's book 'The DCC Guide' a good, simple introduction. It's an American book but available in the UK, and not expensive. That debunked a lot of the confusion and then I understood the basics.

I still don't do any advanced stuff (or even intermediate!) but at least I now understand a bit. I do a bit of tinkering, but have sent locos off to experts for difficult stuff.

I thought it wise to do a bit of chatting to guys in clubs or on boards like this before committing hard earned cash!

 

[PaulRhB]

Well finally had time so here goes,
The bits! One loco, one LoksoundXL and a dcc plug.

remove the two screws at the front as per the instructions

and just the outer two on the metal bracket at the back.

You may find the cylinder top covers pop off too and you end up like this.

Now this proves they've used the original Lyn mouldings design even if it is a new mould as the old attaching spigots are still there, circled in red here, and they limit the space in here too. I suppose you could chop them out but that will be pretty fiddly. I measured it all up and the Bachmann circuit board goes right up to the top too so no room above this for the decoder.

Here's the circuit board with the DCC socket arrowed. If you buy a plain decoder simply remove the blanking plug and plug it in here. Note also where they've chopped off the old mounting lugs where the body attached on the original model.

Now you could drop a small decoder in the space arrowed but it's not big enough for a G scale sound decoder so I assume they were intending to use a HO/OO gauge one??? Tabs are provided on the circuit board to solder the speaker outputs from the decoder to to use the built in speaker.
Note I have made up a decoder lead using the plugs I already had but you can buy these ready to just screw into the decoder terminals.

I used the loksound XL though so I needed more space. I removed the cab as the instructions. Then I chose to drill a hole halfway up the firebox side, (to avoid the pocket for the decoder seen in the picture above), and use the cab floor as there is loads of room.
Simply attach the relevant leads to the correct terminals as per the ESU instructions, I haven't used the NMRA standard colour code so don't use my coloured wire as a guide You can cover the decoder with black tape to hide it.

I also chose to use the supplied ESU speaker so I removed the installed one and chopped off the surround with side cutters. The ESU one is then simply attached with some very strong outdoor double sided tape from Maplins that also prevents vibration. I also added a piece on the back so if it touches the cab I won't get vibration.

 

[PaulRhB]

Now I did find a problem, the sound doesn't work! Everything else ok and I checked it against my other ESU decoders and all is fine. Tried a speaker that is known to work too and still nowt so the sound part appears to be duff or completely blank so I will check it on the lokprogrammer and than if still no clue return it.
Just to prove the rest works :-


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncjQg--0U8s&feature=youtube_gdata_player < Link To [size=14pt][size=14pt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncjQg--0U8s&feature=youtube_gdata_player < Link To http://www.youtube.com/wa...e=youtube_gdata_player[/size][/size]

 

[p.williams]

paul, two queries before i order a 'Lyn' , the spec' mentions Loop & hook couplings being included, are these LGB compatable ?
also, zimmo's MX 632R 8 pin chip, is it programmable using MTS !! please?
thnks for info,
pete

 

[PaulRhB]

Yes they include the standard type and they usually include height adjusters with all their stock to match LGB, so even though I haven't checked that particular bit, I see no reason for these to be different.

 

[Zerogee]

I will look forwad to it matey, i've always wanted to have just one loco dcc with sound, ........

That's the start of the slippery slope - I bought one sound-equipped loco, and then quickly realised that I wanted (no, NEEDED!) to sound-chip ALL my loco stable.
In fact, adding sound is so addictive that I'm surprised Massoth don't give away the first sound-decoder for nothing, as any good drug dealer knows that the first hit should always be free.....

Jon.

 

[Doug]

Its worse than that, just got my 'Lyn', plain black version. Seriously thinking of fitting a sound decoder ---- i don't have any DCC or analogue at all!!!

Unless you can get a sound decoder that does the sounds as well on battery power alone ...

Plain black livery with straight stack fitted:

 

[ntpntpntp]

Earlier thi year I bought the New Bachmann Forney which would take any decoder under the sun. To fit my Massoth XL, I had to gut the loco and rewire it!
...Shay. Climax. Heisler and Forney, Wonderful stuff! All gutted to fit Massoth though.

Was the necessity to "gut" down to space issues? I don't have a Forney (looks lovely but also looks too expensive for what it is).

Must say none of my recent Bacchy locos have needed gutting so far: QSI sound in a 3-truck Shay, Massoth XL in a Connie, Digitrax in a Mallet, small HO chip in a Davenport, er... I forget the others. All have just needed simple plug-n-play and/or a little unscrewing and moving of wires to the decoder. Probably the nearest to a "gutting" would have been fitting a LokPilot XL to an original model of the Baldwin 2-4-2T, but that was mainly due to the need to crack open the block and access the motor and pickup wiring.

In fact, adding sound is so addictive...

As far as fitting sound goes, I have 3 or 4 sound locos and find it's quite nice for a while but then I tend to turn it off and just enjoy the soothing clickety-clack. I haven't caught the "bug" for sound enough to feel the need to equip the entire fleet (don't have enough bank balance either!)