Analogue - loop system

[davecar]

Hi,

I have just aquired my first G scale system and I am in the process of installing the track. I have a long garden so I wanted the track to go down one side of my lawn, branch off at a point and then loop round joining the same trackand back again. I thought I would do this at both ends thus having continious operation. Easier said than done because I now find it will not work!

I have recently semi retired so I am quite keen to get up and running for myself and also my grand children - all boys!

I have had an indoor 00 dispaly in one of my bedrooms for the past two years and still working on it, but this activity confined to the winter. This system is DCC so I have no experience of analogue.

Is it very difficult to set up a loop system as I have outlined or should I seek an alternative right from the outset.

Greateful for any advice.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Zerogee]

An LGB 10151 reversing loop set will take care of it very simply with no additional wiring, but as I understand it you will have to manually reverse the controller while the train is running round the loop, so it doesn't allow "hands-free" continuous running; with various extra wiring and switching using track contacts etc. this can be set up to happen automatically, I'm sure someone who has done it will chime in with further info on this.

Jon.

 

[dutchelm]

A line with reverse loops is not straightforward but not too difficult. There are several ways of doing this but I can only comment on the way I have achieved this.
The points on each loop are sprung so the train always goes the same way around. Power is applied to these loops to achieve the right direction. The mainline needs to be fed through some form of double pole changeover to reverse the direction of the train up & down the line.
Each reverse loop needs both lines broken at each end to prevent short circuits.
On my railway I use an LGB signal with the auxiliary switch to reverse the mainline & operate this with reed switches to make it automatic.

 

[stevelewis]

Dave

The simplest solution you could adopt for a system which includes 2 reverse loops is to go digital, althjough I appreciate this would involve some expense, as you would also need 2 reverse loop modules ( 1 for each loop) which would cost you well over £100 in addition to the digital equipment,

There is the possibility that you could utilise your DCC 00 equipment, which may need a booster to enable it to operate G scale, it depends what DCC system you have and what G scale locos you have.

 

[whatlep]

Hi,

I have just aquired my first G scale system and I am in the process of installing the track. I have a long garden so I wanted the track to go down one side of my lawn, branch off at a point and then loop round joining the same trackand back again. I thought I would do this at both ends thus having continious operation.

Dave

To do this in analogue is a real pain. The only real way of doing it and have continuous running is to use a Massoth multi-function module (8155001 or LGB 55063) and wire it as per the instructions (you can download the manual from http://www.massoth.com/dlbereich/down.php?action=en&kategorie=1&gruppe=29 - see pages 42/43). You'll also need a pair of track contacts, lots of wire and a magnet under any loco using the line

The downside of that approach is that you can only have one train in operation at any time. That may be a showstopper.

May I suggest a different approach? Instead of having one track down the side of your lawn, lay two and have them connected via the end loops you envisage. That gives you a nice simple continuous run, probably of some length. Electrics amount to two wires to the track and you can run more than one train at once. Simples!

Happy to discuss via PM if it helps. :callme:

 

[Andy Worsfold]

Hi Dave,

Whereabouts are you?

I use the LGB Epl system for my reverse loops...

Andy

 

[craigrailinc]

Hi Dave
you could try putting a point motor (12010) with a double pole double throw supplementary switch (12070). isolate the tracks both rails on both sides of the point in the loop making an isolated area in the loop.
wire the supp switch by using the 6 screws:- taking 1 and 6 to + rail, 3 and 4 to -.
from your tranny
+ to 2 on supp swith and a rail in the isolated area.
- to 5 on supp switch and the other rail in the isolated area.
this will when the point changes it will reverse the power in the straight section.

you can change the point motor by track contact (17100) and a magnet on the underside of the loco.
this would let you run either wat round the loops. but you would need two contact's in each loop.(to run either way)
you would need to do the above for both loops.
sounds a lot but it's not I used this for a year and then made it to a return loop to be able to run more than one engine. i find this better and flexable for my needs. Cost of switches, points and track contack's can be dear may be worth buying the track instead and doing a return loop.
if I can help me PM me.
Brian

 

[minimans]

for analog automatic operation you should get yourself a copy of the LGB trackplanning guide which will give you all the information on the reverse loop systems both automatic and manual. manual operation is the simplest but you do have to be there to change polarity on the controller, the auto version is quite complicated but fairly easy to do using the guide book, however you do have to keep the changing pointwork clean and free of dirt will all stop!! I use 24V @5amps for the EPL supply and dont have any problems except for when the point gets stuck due to a "foreign" object in the blade.................. http://www.amazon.com/LGB-Track-Planning-Technical-Guide/dp/3980032531

 

[nicebutdim]

I've managed to make a completly automatic system for two loops on my soon to be built analogue layout. I've fully tested it and it works without fault. It's required the use of a relay board from ebay, a timer board from maplin and lgb's track sensors and reversing loop sets. It has the advantage of having no set 'memory', so cannot get confused as to where a train is as can happen with some other systems. The train carries on with no noticible hesitation as the polarity is reversed, but there is a slight cost firstly, prob about £100 for all the bits, but it will allow me to just let the train run on its own between the two loops at each end of my single line. Let me know if you're interested and I'll give you the details and a wiring plan.

 

[davecar]

Many thanks for all the helpful replies. It was my first post and I didnt expect so many encouraging replies.

In the end I have gone with Whatlep who suggested a different approach. Another line run in parallel back down again so I have a continuious loop and no points. As I am new to G scale I didnt want any complications on the electric side, and I was a bit afriad of some of the solutions offered. Thankfully I have only bought one point so I can use this as a siding. The cost of track returning down the garden would be an extra £150 so I will probably do it in two phases. Also for various reasons I am elevating the track by about 12 inches so I will have all the additional woodwork to do as well. It has the added advantage that I can run two trains and also have continuous operation.

Thanks again for all the helpful posts, really appreciated.

Kind regards,

Dave

 

[minimans]

Well done the best solution by far!! means more track= more trains................

 

[pugwash]

It's started...there'll be no holding him back now...where have I seen this before?

 

[whatlep]

It's started...there'll be no holding him back now...where have I seen this before?

OK gang, I've hooked him. Reel him in nice and slow and we could have six trains in simultaneous operation by next Christmas....

 

[korm kormsen]

davecar, everybody has different experiences. so let me throw in my two cents.


apart from the track and two turnouts, all you need to buy is one LGB turnout- or signal- switch with the additional switch. (for reversing power to the mainline)
the rest you can make yourself, even if you got more than two thumbs.
the LGB loopset is nothing more than two cuts throug both rails, one of them bridged with diodes (so, that the train moves always in the same direction inside the loop, regardless of polarity of trackpower on the mainline)

see:

if operating manually, you just have to reverse trackpower, while the train is in one of the two loop sections.

variation:
a station in the loop.
you put another seperate section of track after the loop section. the train will stop there.
when or after you activate the LGB switch, you push a bellbutton, that connects this section to the mainline.

automatic:
you add to the above two reed contacts, to activate the switch.
or, if you dont want to use reeds and magnets, you use mecanical contacts (shown in green below) to the same effect.
(the cable drawn in grey represents the white cable in the LGB system)

 

[korm kormsen]

the above plan is wrong in one thing:
you need to put one piece of contact rail in each loop. (one per loop)
the different directions of the diodes give you the forward and reverse switching of the mainline power.
(this plan was a study to have trains running in both directions around the loop alternately)