A Garrat 2-8-8-2 from 2 Bachmann Consolidations updated 30/11/13

Re:Congar anyone. 2-8-8-2 project

I have now decided on the Walschaerts configuration. If you think it looks bizarre, go take a look at the VOR set-up J. I wanted to keep the lifting arms and expansion link as far back as I could, which seems to be the most common practice. This reduces the amount of superstructure that has to be relieved to accommodate the motion.
Anyway, now I have arrived at the final plan the fabrication of the other 3 sets should be much quicker by comparison with all the prototyping that led to this configuration. The components are made up from 1mm brass strip, no machine tools were harmed in the making of these parts (except a pedestal drill) just some assorted files.

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Re:Congar anyone. 2-8-8-2 project

Wow!!! Mind- and eye-boggling stuff!
Im........press........ive!!!
Only three more to make

Rik
 
Re:Congar anyone. 2-8-8-2 project

Wow, gob smacking work :admire::admire::admire:
 
Re:Congar anyone. 2-8-8-2 project

The existing pilot is too long for the new loco. If left as is it would result in a prohibitive overhang at either end, to the extent that the couplers would look ridiculous, even on R3s. Further, it just looks odd, so time for a shortening job.

First I cut the swing arm and removed the spring

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The cut swing arm is now re-positioned on top the front portion with the spring in the old pivot hole, the old spring housing now becomes a new pivot hole.

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Re-located on the chassis it affords a good deal of clearance.
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Re:Congar anyone. 2-8-8-2 project

Made the tender sub frames up out of 2 mm styrene today and fitted one to the front drive unit and experimented with fixings. When I was happy with that I could finally work out the tender characteristics. As I said early, just because it’s a fictional loco does not mean to say it won’t look odd if best practice is not followed.

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Settled on chopping the Connie tender and relieving that area over the expansion link, you can see now why I wanted to keep it compact.

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I usually dress the edge of the joint with a file clamped to the desk and gentle stokes (one way) so as to realise as flat as a surface as possible. If you are really clever you can get a nice flat surface on each side and it will join seamlessly. In my case it usually it ends up with applying Milliput and more finishing and if it’s applied to a very small gap it can let go.

I‘ll give you a tip for joining flat sides, such as tenders and car sides.

The aftermarket styrene is always invariably softer than the original shell (there are exceptions; you need to try a bit of gash first). I cut the joint slightly under size, between the rivet heads to allow the insertion of a thin strip of styrene (the white stripe in the picture. 10 thou in this case).

I use Mek for all my joints and some of you might have had experienced using a tad too much on thin styrene and watching it turn to goop. Well we can use this to our advantage; if a liberal dose of Mek is applied to the thin strip (after it has been stuck to one side) it becomes softer than the shell. If we then place it on a flat surface and push the two sections together any slight irregularities are occupied by the softened styrene. It’s a bit like a head gasket.

It needs some practice, but if left overnight the next day it just needs a scrape with the edge of a Stanley blade to clean up.
 
Re: A Garrat 2-8-8-2 from 2 Bachmann Consolidations updated 14/11/13

Now that's a Garrett !! What a beast !!
 
Re: A Garrat 2-8-8-2 from 2 Bachmann Consolidations updated 14/11/13

Just to keep you in the picture a few distractions have interrupted the flow. Regular updates will follow when I get back to recreational stuff.


Cheers
 
I wondered whether this project has been finished ? Was looking forward to seeing this painted and running .

Charles
 
Still amazing at this stage, just looking at the pics :o
 
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