2018 March project

stockers said:
The joints on resin building need to be FULL of glue. This keeps water and frost out, which is what usually dismantles kits in the winter!
I used thick super glue from the Aero boys - slower to set but fills gaps..
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Yup, I've been filling gaps from the outside with epoxy
 
Another small step

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Ready to be joined together this morning

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And, after I'd recovered from the grocery run :whew:, stuck together. This time I used gap-filling CA, as recommended by Stockers Esq. :nod:
Will reinforce the corners with epoxy.
And then, I think, I shall paint the interior before doing the roofing, etc.
 
Slopped on a first coat of light-blocking (I hope :wondering:) black acrylic inside the shed. I'll do a second coat this afternoon. Then a coat or two of white.

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idlemarvel said:
You can get the "fancy clamps" from e.g. Hobbycraft £6 for 9. I use them a lot, they have a good grip although weak but you can put several in place to give the grip you need.
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I get mine in Charlies, Shotton, for £1.60 for nine - mixed sizes, too.

tac
 
I was looking at the metal frames that clamped the corners of the model, rather than the black plastic jobbies.
 
Second coat of whitewash -- well, white acrylic -- on the loco shed interior.
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I don't suppose any real shed was ever that pristine inside -- certainly not after the first loco had chuffed in.
So that's two coats of black and two coats of white, which I hope will minimize light getting through the walls.
Went out this morning and bought several small bottles of outdoor-rated acrylic for the outside of the buildings.
 
Chris Vernell said:
Second coat of whitewash -- well, white acrylic -- on the loco shed interior.
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I don't suppose any real shed was ever that pristine inside -- certainly not after the first loco had chuffed in.
So that's two coats of black and two coats of white, which I hope will minimize light getting through the walls.
Went out this morning and bought several small bottles of outdoor-rated acrylic for the outside of the buildings.
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Have you tried proper masonry paint? You can get sample pots of that which seem to work fine
 
First coat on the outside of the loco shed. It was a home brew mix of black and white, probably could've used more white :wondering: (the flash makes it look brighter than it is to the eye). However, there will be a second coat, then umber (and other hues) washes.
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Onward :nerd:
 
a dry brush with white will work well on that dark grey and lighten it at the same time.
 
stockers said:
a dry brush with white will work well on that dark grey and lighten it at the same time.
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Good idea. I'm going to do a second, much lighter grey coat for weather protection before I get into shading and dry brushing. Our summer climate :sweating: can be as brutal in its way as winter :mask:, not that I intend to leave the buildings out in winter.
 
The water tank gets its first coat:
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I did think of trying Light and Dark Stone in acknowledgment of the one true faith :rock:, but the common shade of trim on the Fallowfield Road is green, so I stuck with that.

The loco shed itself got another colour adjustment, since I had paint left over from the station building's second coat.
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It is now fairly close to the colour of the station, in hopes that that it will suggest the stone came from one quarry, or at least the same area. I intend to pick out some stones with shades of umber and sienna.
 
Well. after Sunday's sh ... sh ... sho ... :eek: ... no, I cannot speak that word :oops: ...
I sliced up some 60 thou styrene sheet to frame and brace the loco shed doors; the kit supplied no framing material, but I reckoned that as the doors will spend most of their life open, I should enhance their appearance a bit.
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Now I'm running on styrene cement fumes :drunk:.
 
Checking the fit of the loco shed doors, I discovered that the entry arch was narrower at the bottom than the top, and the doors wouldn't fit. I bought a length of styrene 5/16" square tube, cut it to fit across the top of the arch, then epoxied it across the bottom to square up the entry.
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The tube is epoxied to a length of 5/16" ABS angle.
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LGB track will fit over this threshold (I checked ;)).
Black paint will hide it to some extent.
 
I test-fitted the roof panels and found that there is nothing to support them at the tower end. Not trusting a butt joint, I CA'd a couple of .060 styrene pieces to the underside of the arch to help hold the panels up.
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Not very exciting, but we progress by nanometres.
I did get the main doors painted, so now we wait while everything sets and dries.
 
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Sub-roof is CA'd in place -- nearly stuck my fingers down too :blush:. Took a minor bit of trimming to the styrene sheets and a couple of shims to get them to fit properly against the tower. I am going to make and install a couple of smoke vents at the peak (judging by photos, Tetbury used to have three) before trimming the slate sheets and gooping them to the sub-roof.
 
Constructed a pair of smoke vents and applied them to the sub-roof.
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Not sure what I'm going to do about caps. There seem to be 1,001 versions, so I guess anything will have a prototype somewhere.

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Had some "plank" sheet purchased for another project that I've yet to get around to. Still plenty left.
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